Skil 1629 rebuild, June 2014

[user 122986]

In 2011, I decided to take a small engine repair course at a local college. The course required that each student provide their own gas engine to repair, so I advertised for free discards on Kijiji and Craigslist. I ended up with 2 lawnmowers and a Skil 1629 chainsaw.
I wanted the complexity of a 4-stroke, so I used one of the lawnmowers (Tecumseh 5hp) as a course target (got an 'A' on the course).
The 1629 was a mess. The donor said it (and the second lawnmower) had been sitting under some pine trees in his back yard for more than 20 years. Despite the condition, I kept the 1629 as a future project, after reading several threads here on Arboristsite.
The 1629 damage:
- bar was rusted beyond use (chain seemed not too bad, but I won't trust it)
- the chain oil pump was totally seized
- the on-off switch was shorted
- muffler missing
- 2 fins missing from the flywheel (someone perhaps tried to remove the flywheel nut in the wrong direction).
- tank vent assembly and grommet missing
- tank fuel hose was cracked and the fuel hose grommet was split
- recoil starter spring was incorrectly wound
- recoil starter pull handle was missing: I used a piece of broom stick to use as a temporary handle
- recoil starter string was rotted
- someone had used a rattle-can to paint black paint over the original orange paint

The former owner/donor said it ran the last time he used it (20 years earlier). I wish I had taken more photos of the chainsaw when I got it.

Looking to get it in working condition (not a 'restore' task).
More to follow.

 

[user 122986]

Looking to get it in working condition (not a 'restore' task).
More to follow.

My few original photos

 

[user 122986]

I decided to strip all paint, and clean as much as possible.
Started with the chain oiler, which was seized. It took almost an hour, but managed to get the plunger free without damaging or scoring the plunger or pump chamber. The entire cavity under the oil pump tank was full of a grey-white sludge.
While I had the oiler and tank cover assembly off, I removed the front handle bar (I am not sure if the front handle can be removed with the oiler assembly cover in place).

Next, I removed the gas tank, which was a problem because the tank mounting damper (cork) seemed glued to the tank and rear handle assembly with black paint. Both tank grommets were in pieces, and the tank cap o-ring was compressed flat.
While I had the tank out, I stripped of the old paint, and polished the tank with 320 grit wet sandpaper.
I found new grommets and an o-ring at a local fastener store (Ottawa Fastener Supply), where I could buy parts that were not pre-packaged (you know the kind - one package has 5 nuts, another has 6 bolts)..
I decided to create an interim replacement for the tank vent assembly. Total parts cost for the grommets, o-ring and makeshift tank vent assembly was $4.

The attached photo shows the components I used for the tank vent assembly, disassembled, assembled and assembled in the tank. The replacement fuel hose is also shown. I assembled them in the tank to check the operation ('blow and suck' test).
While sucking on the gas hose, I was never able to get to the point where I could not suck, but there was always a little vacuum in the tank. When I blew, after the initial pressure buildup in the tank, air was bursting out around where my lips were on the hose. I think this should work fine as a tank vent to allow air in when needed, and keep gas from leaking out.

 

[sawfun]

Very nice find. Those big saws are highly sought after. Well worth restoring if at all possible.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Thanks for posting this, we need more of these threads.

 

[user 122986]

The attached photo shows the components I used for the tank vent assembly, disassembled, assembled and assembled in the tank. The replacement fuel hose is also shown. I assembled them in the tank to check the operation ('blow and suck' test).

I forgot to mention: the arrow in the photo of the tank vent assembly was to highlight the shaft of the bolt, where I filed a spot to allow air to move past the grommet when there was a lower pressure in the tank. I felt that the spring compressing the washer onto the grommet would have put enough pressure on the bolt shaft to restrict air passage.

 

[user 122986]

I needed to find a replacement for the tank mounting damper. The original was cork, approx. 1/16" thick, so I visited a few craft stores, and found what appears to be a similar thickness cork sheet in my local (Kanata, Ontario, CA) Walmart craft section. I traced the original outline on the new cork sheet, and will cut it when it is time to reassemble the saw. I plan to wrap the new damper around the gas tank, and heat it and the gas tank with a hot air gun (on low heat), then wrap the cork around the tank and fix the result with elastic bands. Hopefully, when it cools, the cork will keep the shape of the tank and not crack when I insert the tank.

 

[user 122986]

Most of the exterior components of the 1629 are stripped and sanded. I have noticed that most 1629 images show that large patches of paint are missing - and not from wear. Large areas of paint have popped off. Many exterior components are a magnesium alloy ( they have the letters 'Mag" after the part number in the castings). After sanding, I noticed that these parts had darkened slightly in the next day or two, likely from oxidation (don't know, my high school chemistry was insufficient and several decades ago). A little net research turned up a few surface preps that apparently work well, but I am having trouble finding sources. One promising product is Stits MagnaDyne E2390 (about $5 per quart).
So, in the spirit of self-education, I will try 2 different inexpensive surface preparations for a few of the parts while I try to find a source for the Stits product.
For the outer shroud (magnesium) and the gas tank (I think it is aluminium), I will prepare the surface with Rust Check Rust Convertor (RCRC).
For one other part, I will try copper electroplating (future post).
One photo below shows the outer shroud and gas tank cleaned and hand-sanded (320 grit wet sand paper). The other photo shows the result of treating the parts with RCRC, but before the final rinse with clean water.

 

[Little Al]

Google for Etch Primer mainly used on aircraft panels, it"s a yellow/green colour it has a component that bites into the surface of the metal & is very good at adhering to alloy/mag surfaces

 

[user 122986]

Thank you, Little Al
All inputs are much appreciated. The RCRC (rust convertor), when applied to the mag parts, bubbles for quite some time, apparently converting the oxides before hardening.
There was no such a dramatic reaction on the gas tank, which I believe is aluminum. Eastwood has a gray etch-primer ($40 per quart), that I may try. I have an Eastwood tin-zinc electroplating kit that works OK, but replacement tin-zinc strips seem excessively expensive.

 

[user 122986]

The 1629 gas tank is not aluminum. The lack of reaction to RCRC led me to check with a magnet, and - - - it is steel.
So now, I must treat it internally with something.
Any suggestions? C''mon guys and gals, this is a forum - chime in.

There must be some gear-head ladies out there.

 

[SS Sniper]

There must be some gear-head ladies out there.[/QUOTE]
Haha This isn't eHarmony...

 

[gmax]

For rusty fuel tanks I use "KBS fuel tank sealer" , you can buy small kits for motorcycle tanks.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html

 

[user 122986]

Thank you, gmax.
And, SS Sniper, <chuckle>, good one. But we are in a more enlightened and inclusive society now. I have a male friend who is a nurse, and a female friend who is an aviation mechanic, and a whole host of friends, male and female, who do all the maintenance on their motorcycles, so I see no reason to expect that there can't be ladies who have an interest in chainsaws.

On the 1629 side of the discussion, I was happy to see the result of the RCRC on the outer shroud (178640, magnesium) and gas tank (301293, steel) and resultant paint adhesion (of course, next month it could all come off in slabs), so I will use the same approach on the remaining magnesium parts.
As can be seen in the pics of the original condition, the saw was painted 'orange', and repainted at some later date with black. I am repainting it with orange.
Trenclad rust primer, Tremclad Real Orange, light sanding (400grit), final coat Tremclad Real Orange.
The Tremclad Real Orange is fairly close to the original orange color, although not a perfect match.

 

[user 122986]

This might seem to be a strange question. I have been searching for Skil chainsaw images all over the net, hoping to find some good examples of the outer shroud label. I will try to print a color label, and glue it on the outer shroud then paint over the entire outer shroud with several coats of clear lacquer.
During my search, I have never seen a 1629 with an original orange color, but I have found several examples of orange 1631 saws. 1629 colors seem to be mostly cream, all light yellow or light yellow with black outer shroud. 1631 colors seem to be the same ranges as 1629, but also all orange, or orange with black outer shroud.
But orange it will be, since I have finished painting the air cleaner body, starter housing assembly and chain cover assembly. Just the main body to be cleaned and painted.

Does anyone have any information on model coloring? I was told by the donor it was a 1629, but perhaps it is actually a 1631.
I have ordered an RK-23HS repair kit for the Tillotson HS-113A carburetor.

 

[SS Sniper]

This might seem to be a strange question. I have been searching for Skil chainsaw images all over the net, hoping to find some good examples of the outer shroud label. I will try to print a color label, and glue it on the outer shroud then paint over the entire outer shroud with several coats of clear lacquer.
During my search, I have never seen a 1629 with an original orange color, but I have found several examples of orange 1631 saws. 1629 colors seem to be mostly cream, all light yellow or light yellow with black outer shroud. 1631 colors seem to be the same ranges as 1629, but also all orange, or orange with black outer shroud.
But orange it will be, since I have finished painting the air cleaner body, starter housing assembly and chain cover assembly. Just the main body to be cleaned and painted.

Does anyone have any information on model coloring? I was told by the donor it was a 1629, but perhaps it is actually a 1631.
I have ordered an RK-23HS repair kit for the Tillotson HS-113A carburetor.

I'd think that a member here by the name "SawTroll" would be your best bet on info. He knows quite a bit on a variety of saws.

 

[user 122986]

I'd think that a member here by the name "SawTroll" would be your best bet on info. He knows quite a bit on a variety of saws.

Thank you, SS Sniper

 

[SS Sniper]

Thank you, SS Sniper

No problem

 

[user 122986]

I have finished painting all of the external components and body. Still waiting for the carburetor repair kit. The points are enclosed in a shallow round box that hides behind the flywheel. When I pulled the lid off the box, I had to scrape a white solid disc (coating on the points) from between the points to get the points to close. The main body of the points box is cracked, but seems stationary. I may try to repair the crack with JB Weld or Cold Weld before reassembly, but the lid of the box snaps in snugly even with the crack in the points box main body. Part of the manual oiler gasket has disintegrated, so I may repair it with gasket maker, since I have not been able to find a replacement.

 

[user 122986]

While I wait for the carb. repair kit, I think I will connect some of the external parts back on the main body (need to leave the gas tank out until the carb is reinstalled, and oiler cover off until the front handle is reinstalled.
Attaching a couple of photos of the painted external parts. Next time, I will make a painting chamber with a turntable. Garage is shared with a significant other who has interest only in gardening, so open garage doors, garden utensils and some unexpected wind gusts resulted in dust particles. Lack of a turntable resulted in a little overspray (slight running in a few places).
This saw must have been a real work saw. Not because the sprockets are quite worn, but the places on the trigger-handle where fingers made contact are etched with holes as deep as 1/8 inch. I will try to a closeup photo of those painted surfaces. Should have taken pix before painting. I assume sweat-soaked gloves or bare hands are the cause.