To start with it was very tough to get it started then once it was started it performed well. Took the carb off several times then noticed the gaskets were curled a little so bought several carb kits including a new carb. Determined the carb sat dry and was not sealing well. Many times it starts first pull. Compression release was sloppy and would leak a little so bought several OEM from UK. Modified compression release with wider grooves to weld retainer clips in place with a stiffer spring under bottom groove. No more leaking and is reliable. Could not get my foot into handle area while breaking throttle several times. Replaced throttle with larger size rod and modified throttle a little. Handle bar kept coming loose so made a heavy retaining plate with a bolt using safety wire to keep nut in place. I started with a thirty inch Rollomatic bar which it had to be modified to mount. I tuned up the area where air cleaner mounts because dust worked its way into air cleaner. That is all that I can think of. Same process that I went through with several new Stihl and Husky saws Thanks
So bought a chinese saw (holz g070)
- Thread starter sliceoflife
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sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So A couple 070's in collector condition (looked new, but obviously had repaint jobs) ended in Europe eBay last week around $600 shipped. I took a stab at them but I guess I figured where my "price" is for what I think the trouble the "cheap clone" is responsible for. Obviously very personal... but I can buy a New Clone 070 PH for ~$350. Deciding my max bid, I figured I would pay ~$550 for a minty looking vintage stihl 070. (The EU saws included bars, but they looked like short bars I'd have immediately replaced with longer ones).
Currently looking (Edit: bought it; need to get a bigger bar/adapter for it; currently only 20" on there) at a very rough looking 394xp that the seller claims runs like new (despite looking like it survived the apocalypse). It'd need a new clutch cover/chain brake at some point from the looks of it; but if it runs like the seller claims and the auto oiler works; I could get a decent deal in the price range I'm comfortable with.
Spark plug for the Echo 900 arrives today. I did reinstall the muffler; kind of wedged together and I think it'll hold like that for at least awhile*... If It winds up being a saw I like to use a lot; I'll take the advice offered and get a custom muffler made (unless I luck into finding an OEM for a reasonable price).
Meantime I keep using the Hoff g070 (Clone). It took a bit of work to get started yesterday (Maybe 5 minutes of pulling). I suspect because the last time I used it, I had retuned the L while it was hot (after three slabs) to try and resolve the dropping to 900rpm and wanting to stall coming out of the slabs. Realized after the fact that Using the Idle screw would have made a lot more sense; so may revert that and hopefully it gets it back to starting in 5-10 pulls. The thing is still 4 stroking some when I'm not feeding it into the slab... but cleans up if I feed it fast enough (mostly an issue with <20" diameter slabs... it's much more comfortable with the bigger slabs... part of why I'm trying to get the echo going again... to use with smaller logs). I could Lean the H screw a touch more; but honestly... the thing is ripping now and is practically cool coming out of cuts... so unless there's some risk running it a little rich; I'm happy with where it's at. I'm ripping through 7'x14"diameter slabs in about a minute flat and maybe twice that time for fatter logs.
@Ted Jenkins , Got a link to the Carb you bought as a replacement? I don't think mine has the issue yours did; but starting first pull is a tempting thought... I may buy one just to have on hand in case I ever get the inkling to do the swap.
*The only fragments small enough to fall INTO the cylinder are the pieces that are under the screws; so no risk of fragments getting into the engine.
Currently looking (Edit: bought it; need to get a bigger bar/adapter for it; currently only 20" on there) at a very rough looking 394xp that the seller claims runs like new (despite looking like it survived the apocalypse). It'd need a new clutch cover/chain brake at some point from the looks of it; but if it runs like the seller claims and the auto oiler works; I could get a decent deal in the price range I'm comfortable with.
Spark plug for the Echo 900 arrives today. I did reinstall the muffler; kind of wedged together and I think it'll hold like that for at least awhile*... If It winds up being a saw I like to use a lot; I'll take the advice offered and get a custom muffler made (unless I luck into finding an OEM for a reasonable price).
Meantime I keep using the Hoff g070 (Clone). It took a bit of work to get started yesterday (Maybe 5 minutes of pulling). I suspect because the last time I used it, I had retuned the L while it was hot (after three slabs) to try and resolve the dropping to 900rpm and wanting to stall coming out of the slabs. Realized after the fact that Using the Idle screw would have made a lot more sense; so may revert that and hopefully it gets it back to starting in 5-10 pulls. The thing is still 4 stroking some when I'm not feeding it into the slab... but cleans up if I feed it fast enough (mostly an issue with <20" diameter slabs... it's much more comfortable with the bigger slabs... part of why I'm trying to get the echo going again... to use with smaller logs). I could Lean the H screw a touch more; but honestly... the thing is ripping now and is practically cool coming out of cuts... so unless there's some risk running it a little rich; I'm happy with where it's at. I'm ripping through 7'x14"diameter slabs in about a minute flat and maybe twice that time for fatter logs.
@Ted Jenkins , Got a link to the Carb you bought as a replacement? I don't think mine has the issue yours did; but starting first pull is a tempting thought... I may buy one just to have on hand in case I ever get the inkling to do the swap.
*The only fragments small enough to fall INTO the cylinder are the pieces that are under the screws; so no risk of fragments getting into the engine.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So either I'm getting the hang of this or my G070 is scared It's on the chopping block (with the 394xp I have coming).
On my lunch today I took it down, tightened the chain, sharpened the chain, retuned the L and gave the H the tiniest little bump leaner and adjusted the Idle throttle in a bit to compensate for the L adjustment.
Slabbed up three 7 ft slabs about 12"-28" diameter (maybe 16" avg) in under 15 minutes (including 2-3 min on each side warmup and cooldown and maybe 1 min tuning in the idle throttle after the first slab). Didn't try to stall between slabs. Purred along happy as a clam.
Finished filling up my little solar kiln to get shut up for curing for a few weeks now.
On my lunch today I took it down, tightened the chain, sharpened the chain, retuned the L and gave the H the tiniest little bump leaner and adjusted the Idle throttle in a bit to compensate for the L adjustment.
Slabbed up three 7 ft slabs about 12"-28" diameter (maybe 16" avg) in under 15 minutes (including 2-3 min on each side warmup and cooldown and maybe 1 min tuning in the idle throttle after the first slab). Didn't try to stall between slabs. Purred along happy as a clam.
Finished filling up my little solar kiln to get shut up for curing for a few weeks now.
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sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
They're both scared... The Echo spark plug arrived and after installing it, the saw started on one pull. Damn thing tried to run with the choke on. They know I don't need 4 chainsaws and they're trying to convince me to keep them over the other.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Ok, yeah they are scared. Took out the G070 before work this morning... and it also started first pull today... a nice change from the 5-10min fight I had earlier this week. And it turned the choke off itself (vibration) and kept running. So I literally gave it one half pull and the saw was ready to go. If it keeps up like this I'm going to have a hard time selling any of these saws.
I will say that yesterday I remember reading:
and thinking "Strange, mine is holding strong"... today the lower bracket (What Farmertec sells as the "Handle Tube clamp"... I'd call it a cable clamp) for the handle snapped. Go figure. My fault though; took a nasty, dirt encrusted bark covered top slab off a big ol 30" diameter x 9ft long log and KNEW I should stop and sharpen, but decided to force my way through one slab first... and the saw did not appreciate how dull the chain was by the end of the slab. That vibration probably hurried up the bracket failure.
EDIT: Linking a "video" (just audio) of an ~ 6min run slabbing off this log with the g070. Largest log I've done so far. The slab in the audio is ~23" wide the whole 9 ft length. This log is absolutely murdering my chain. Lots of grit in the bark I think. First half it mows right through, then barely makes it through the second half.
Am I still a little too rich?
I will say that yesterday I remember reading:
Ted Jenkins said:
and thinking "Strange, mine is holding strong"... today the lower bracket (What Farmertec sells as the "Handle Tube clamp"... I'd call it a cable clamp) for the handle snapped. Go figure. My fault though; took a nasty, dirt encrusted bark covered top slab off a big ol 30" diameter x 9ft long log and KNEW I should stop and sharpen, but decided to force my way through one slab first... and the saw did not appreciate how dull the chain was by the end of the slab. That vibration probably hurried up the bracket failure.
EDIT: Linking a "video" (just audio) of an ~ 6min run slabbing off this log with the g070. Largest log I've done so far. The slab in the audio is ~23" wide the whole 9 ft length. This log is absolutely murdering my chain. Lots of grit in the bark I think. First half it mows right through, then barely makes it through the second half.
Am I still a little too rich?
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As to the 070 carburetor, I am still using the original carb that came with the saw. I did buy one off Ebay and several carb kits. I had trouble with the saw ten minutes after trying to start the saw the first time. Immediately took the carb off and suspected the gaskets were not perfect but cleaned the carb and installed. It started and ran well for a year but was always hard to start if it sat for a day or longer. So finally decided some thing had to be done so am so pleased it starts so easy now. Do not tell any one but some times I drop start it. And have not used the compression release in five years but it is there and works. Thanks
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
My carb seems pretty good fortunately. Only real issue is that clutch. It works but the fact that it starts engaging the chain as low as 1300 rpm combined with the dip of ~500rpm @ idle once the saw heats up makes tuning idle a balancing act between the chain spinning when the saw is warming up or the saw stalling when idling hot. If I tune it to 1500RPM idle cold... chain spins like crazy while the saw is cold... but if I tune it to 1250RPM cold to stop the chain... the idle dips to <800RPM when hot and the saw stalls.
It's not quite enough of a pain I'm willing to buy and install a replacement yet; but I'm sure if I keep the saw; that'll eventually be on my list.
Mowed off two more ~27" wide slabs just now; maxed out the mill w/ a 36" bar. If I want to cut anything bigger than this log, I'll need to move the nose clamp ONTO the sprocket... which I assumed was a bad thing to do so I've got it clamped just behind the sprocket nose.
I will correct myself that now I don't think this log is damaging the chain as much as I assumed... I think it's just an adjustment figuring out how slow I need to go with the saw buried in more than 2 ft of wood vs the 12-18" slabs I've been taking. Quite a difference. But if I just hold the mill steady; it does creep its way along at about 5-10mm/second.
It's not quite enough of a pain I'm willing to buy and install a replacement yet; but I'm sure if I keep the saw; that'll eventually be on my list.
Mowed off two more ~27" wide slabs just now; maxed out the mill w/ a 36" bar. If I want to cut anything bigger than this log, I'll need to move the nose clamp ONTO the sprocket... which I assumed was a bad thing to do so I've got it clamped just behind the sprocket nose.
I will correct myself that now I don't think this log is damaging the chain as much as I assumed... I think it's just an adjustment figuring out how slow I need to go with the saw buried in more than 2 ft of wood vs the 12-18" slabs I've been taking. Quite a difference. But if I just hold the mill steady; it does creep its way along at about 5-10mm/second.
The idle set up is pretty easy to fix. One of mine has a tendency to run when it is supposed to stop. At the moment do not care but will address than concern like I have before. Take a rasp and file the clutch shoe down a little so the clutch engages a little later or bend the spring slightly so it is a little tighter. One time I found a spring that went inside of the original spring which did wonders because it did not engage until about 2,000 RPM. What I really liked about that set up was you could have the chain resting on a log and pull the trigger and it would just start cutting no matter how embedded the chain was. Thanks
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Wouldn't bending the springs weaken them so it actually engages sooner? I'm trying to visualize how you mean to bend it. Could you clarify?
I mean if the saw winds up being my go-to even after the 394xp arrives... I may as well make the investment in a 090 6 shoe clutch... and then upgrade the top end to a 090 as well? Throwing $200-300 more into the saw to fix the clutch issue and gain 30cc... not a bad deal, right?
Interestingly In looking into the 090 upgrades for these saws I saw a couple comments where people state that the stock clutch needs upgraded to do it because it is "Barely good enough for the stock 070 power" and citing exactly the problem I'm having as evidence (chain spinning well under 2k rpm). As well as slipping in general (which Im not seeing yet)
But if I can resolve the clutch issue for free or very cheap; then that's the way to go at least for now.
edit: Seller just messaged on eBay that their bank wont accept payment for the 394xp... wants to meet in person for the sale... they are a good 5 hrs from me; so probably wont happen; but they're vaguely en route to my parents house... so if I visit them this summer and the saw isn't sold before then I may detour and pick it up... but for now; back to just having the G070 and the Echo 900 as my big saws. Only shame is a few hrs ago a nicer condition 394 ended for only ~50 bucks more than this one was gonna cost me and I passed on it because I had already bought this one. Ain't that always the way.
At least my wife will be pleased I am not in fact buying another saw.
Now that 090 clutch and top end upgrade is looking even better though...
I mean if the saw winds up being my go-to even after the 394xp arrives... I may as well make the investment in a 090 6 shoe clutch... and then upgrade the top end to a 090 as well? Throwing $200-300 more into the saw to fix the clutch issue and gain 30cc... not a bad deal, right?
Interestingly In looking into the 090 upgrades for these saws I saw a couple comments where people state that the stock clutch needs upgraded to do it because it is "Barely good enough for the stock 070 power" and citing exactly the problem I'm having as evidence (chain spinning well under 2k rpm). As well as slipping in general (which Im not seeing yet)
But if I can resolve the clutch issue for free or very cheap; then that's the way to go at least for now.
edit: Seller just messaged on eBay that their bank wont accept payment for the 394xp... wants to meet in person for the sale... they are a good 5 hrs from me; so probably wont happen; but they're vaguely en route to my parents house... so if I visit them this summer and the saw isn't sold before then I may detour and pick it up... but for now; back to just having the G070 and the Echo 900 as my big saws. Only shame is a few hrs ago a nicer condition 394 ended for only ~50 bucks more than this one was gonna cost me and I passed on it because I had already bought this one. Ain't that always the way.
At least my wife will be pleased I am not in fact buying another saw.
Now that 090 clutch and top end upgrade is looking even better though...
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Typically the ends of the spring is not tempered or at least less than the rest of the spring. While holding the coiled part of the spring bend it a little so that it is a little shorter. You may have to take your dremel tool to cut the end of the curled section off but pretty easy to do. Thanks
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks very much, I thought that might be it, but wanted to be sure. Appreciate the help.
So after work I went back to the g070 and took one more slab off the log. I'd assume it was mostly cooled down after a couple hours, but maybe not quite ambient? Saw started immediately... idled just right ~1250, right off the bat: no struggling, no chain spinning... then after I finished the single slab (~5mins), the Idle had gone UP to ~1400rpm and the chain was spinning. Not quite sure what's going on there. Previously Rpm always dipped when saw heated up...
The only thing I can think that should impact this behavior was I vacuumed out the air filter before starting it up this time... so saw should have been running a little leaner overall I'd assume?
So after work I went back to the g070 and took one more slab off the log. I'd assume it was mostly cooled down after a couple hours, but maybe not quite ambient? Saw started immediately... idled just right ~1250, right off the bat: no struggling, no chain spinning... then after I finished the single slab (~5mins), the Idle had gone UP to ~1400rpm and the chain was spinning. Not quite sure what's going on there. Previously Rpm always dipped when saw heated up...
The only thing I can think that should impact this behavior was I vacuumed out the air filter before starting it up this time... so saw should have been running a little leaner overall I'd assume?
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So I don't think the eBay seller (394xp) noticed how far apart we were (despite being both in PA); and once I called his attention to that and the impracticality of trying to do a cash in person sale (it'd be 10+ hrs and 600 miles driving round trip); he elected to try and fix his banking issue with eBay; and now he expects to ship it tomorrow... so back to having four saws (including 3 big ones) in the near future.
I did pop open the g070 and tried to bend the clutch springs a little... but without removing the clutch... not sure if I accomplished much of anything; but we'll see next time I start it up. If not; I'll start looking at buying that gear puller to extract the clutch and actually take it apart and bend the springs on my bench then reinstall.
Hoping to get a chance today to rev up the echo and see how it's doing; let it make its case to be kept. Honestly the thought of modding the 070 into an 090 is starting to grow on me. Basically the biggest milling saw I could ever hope to have and it'd only be a few hundred dollars more invested. Then keep the 394xp for most of my smaller jobs that don't need a monster; and maybe even keep the echo for quicker little cuts... Put something like a 52" bar on the modded 070 for the really big jobs, 36 inch on the 394xp and keep the 30inch that's on the echo.
I will say with the G070, that muffler bolt is starting to get on my nerves. I get maybe 2 tanks of gas through the saw each time I tighten it before it comes loose again. I've already replaced the bolt, but as mentioned the location makes putting good torque on it impossible (without taking the saw 50% apart). Is Loctite blue the solution here, you think? But otherwise; the clutch is really my only complaint. I fixed the handle bracket with some steel strapping and I'm starting to quite like the saw. Decomp valve is still a bit fussy. But that's a $10 part and it's not bothered me enough to replace it yet. If I do the mod, it'd be getting replaced as I expect it'd be much more necessary on a 090.
I did pop open the g070 and tried to bend the clutch springs a little... but without removing the clutch... not sure if I accomplished much of anything; but we'll see next time I start it up. If not; I'll start looking at buying that gear puller to extract the clutch and actually take it apart and bend the springs on my bench then reinstall.
Hoping to get a chance today to rev up the echo and see how it's doing; let it make its case to be kept. Honestly the thought of modding the 070 into an 090 is starting to grow on me. Basically the biggest milling saw I could ever hope to have and it'd only be a few hundred dollars more invested. Then keep the 394xp for most of my smaller jobs that don't need a monster; and maybe even keep the echo for quicker little cuts... Put something like a 52" bar on the modded 070 for the really big jobs, 36 inch on the 394xp and keep the 30inch that's on the echo.
I will say with the G070, that muffler bolt is starting to get on my nerves. I get maybe 2 tanks of gas through the saw each time I tighten it before it comes loose again. I've already replaced the bolt, but as mentioned the location makes putting good torque on it impossible (without taking the saw 50% apart). Is Loctite blue the solution here, you think? But otherwise; the clutch is really my only complaint. I fixed the handle bracket with some steel strapping and I'm starting to quite like the saw. Decomp valve is still a bit fussy. But that's a $10 part and it's not bothered me enough to replace it yet. If I do the mod, it'd be getting replaced as I expect it'd be much more necessary on a 090.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So finally got the echo 900 back out to mill one slab yesterday and the muffler shook itself off by the end of the slab. "Wedged together" definitely not a passable fix. I'll keep looking at options, but custom muffler, find another muffler that fits, or welding it back together looking like my best bets.
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
Not sure blue loctite will work on anything muffler related as the temps of the muffler will be higher than loctite can handle. Something like Rocksett or another high temp thread locker might be a better option.
On your clutch like Ted Jenkins said above a dual spring setup would probably work good and be a cheap fix if you can find a extension spring with the right size and stiffness to fit inside the stock ones but that's nothing a pair of calipers and the internet can't fix.
I like your idea of upgrading to the 090 as I've always kind of wanted one and why not have more power on tap if needed.
On your clutch like Ted Jenkins said above a dual spring setup would probably work good and be a cheap fix if you can find a extension spring with the right size and stiffness to fit inside the stock ones but that's nothing a pair of calipers and the internet can't fix.
I like your idea of upgrading to the 090 as I've always kind of wanted one and why not have more power on tap if needed.
Blue loctite is good for about 180 degrees c. The muffler may aproach that but the cylinder shouldn't get nearly that hot & thats where the loctite will be.
This thread
Thread 'Stihl 260 muffler mod data, temp, sound level and preformance' https://www.arboristsite.com/thread...d-data-temp-sound-level-and-preformance.6199/
Has some good references for temp's
This thread
Thread 'Stihl 260 muffler mod data, temp, sound level and preformance' https://www.arboristsite.com/thread...d-data-temp-sound-level-and-preformance.6199/
Has some good references for temp's
thompsoncustom
ArboristSite Guru
ya would all depend on where it was on the muffler/cylinder idk anything about how the 070 bolts up. I did use my temp gun once on my poulan wild thing muffler tho and it was around 600 degrees F which is way to high for loctite.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So was out of town a bit, back now.
394xp seller ghosted me when I wouldn't do an off-eBay deal with him, so getting eBay refund. Bought a slightly better condition clutch cover (not good condition, just better) missing chain brake to replace the one that the saw included, which was broken in half and missing most of the actual cover for the clutch... so got that laying around now. Luckily it didn't cost too much; but that's money wasted.
Decided to try and weld the echo 900 muffler. Gotta dig out the stick welder I bought years ago and do some practice on some random steel and see if I feel like I can actually do it. If not, may find a gig welder near me and price that out. Was trying to get a friends son (who's graduating votech welding program) to get me a quote to do it, but they're busy right now with graduation... so may not be able to anytime soon.
Electric saw died on me. clutch slips and smells like burning plastic when I put it in wood now... guessing some plastic gear got melted. That's a $50 electric saw for you, I suppose. Worked good while it lasted.
Till I get the echo sorted out, I'm gonna be using the g070 exclusively.
394xp seller ghosted me when I wouldn't do an off-eBay deal with him, so getting eBay refund. Bought a slightly better condition clutch cover (not good condition, just better) missing chain brake to replace the one that the saw included, which was broken in half and missing most of the actual cover for the clutch... so got that laying around now. Luckily it didn't cost too much; but that's money wasted.
Decided to try and weld the echo 900 muffler. Gotta dig out the stick welder I bought years ago and do some practice on some random steel and see if I feel like I can actually do it. If not, may find a gig welder near me and price that out. Was trying to get a friends son (who's graduating votech welding program) to get me a quote to do it, but they're busy right now with graduation... so may not be able to anytime soon.
Electric saw died on me. clutch slips and smells like burning plastic when I put it in wood now... guessing some plastic gear got melted. That's a $50 electric saw for you, I suppose. Worked good while it lasted.
Till I get the echo sorted out, I'm gonna be using the g070 exclusively.
I have a Holtz 660 replica. Starting is a bear. I should adjust the carb, but it runs fine, starting definitely a problem both with the cord sticking when pull, and the Decomp is fast to pop before the engine starts. I choke it, and then pull it will the throttle pulled and starts. It runs fine and have not used it yet for milling waiting for some more chain. but for felling and cutting firewood it does quite well. I have to use 10/30 weight oil as the standard bar oil is too thick. Also the ratio fuel mixture 32-1 wow. Uses a lot of fuel even compared to My Stilh 076 AV, and I 40 McCullough. Luckily it was cheap.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
So very busy with work this week, so no milling, but lots of purchases.
First I got a homelite super xl for $25 locally... had to buy a chain and it seems like it needs a carb rebuild and maybe a fuel filter, but it runs.
Ebay homelite 775d arrived today. Have to test it tomorrow, didn't have time today.
Mac 36" hardnose bar off Ebay still en route.
Been modding a stihl 36" bar for the 775d... burned up four diamond tipped hole saws getting 90% through the bar for the tensioner pin... damn these things are hard.
Got a stihl carb to replace the carb on the cs900 evl and after it made friends with my drill press and a hammer... it's a "perfect fit". So that saw is back online.
First I got a homelite super xl for $25 locally... had to buy a chain and it seems like it needs a carb rebuild and maybe a fuel filter, but it runs.
Ebay homelite 775d arrived today. Have to test it tomorrow, didn't have time today.
Mac 36" hardnose bar off Ebay still en route.
Been modding a stihl 36" bar for the 775d... burned up four diamond tipped hole saws getting 90% through the bar for the tensioner pin... damn these things are hard.
Got a stihl carb to replace the carb on the cs900 evl and after it made friends with my drill press and a hammer... it's a "perfect fit". So that saw is back online.
