Splitter Design

[iowa]

How thick of material is the sides of your U that pins the cylinder in place?

 

[jthornton]

How thick of material is the sides of your U that pins the cylinder in place?

If you mean the part that the bars slide in it is made from 1/2" x 4, but I'm not thinking it is stout enough for that design and I'm re-thinking that part a bit... If you have any suggestions I'm open ears.

John

 

[iowa]

If you mean the part that the bars slide in it is made from 1/2" x 4, but I'm not thinking it is stout enough for that design and I'm re-thinking that part a bit... If you have any suggestions I'm open ears.

John

Yes. Don't do it! LOL.

Let me think on it today! Actually make a mounting plate on the front of that cylinder. Tapped for the cylinder ties to thread into. That would be easy.

 

[triptester]

I use this method to adapt both tie-rod and welded cylinders to front mount.

1. A cylinder shortened with mounting plate.
2. Retainer brackets
3. Support plates at top of column 1/2 x 6
4. On this splitter the column is made with 2 2x6 tubes with a 2" gap between.

 

[iowa]

I think I would make it more beefy than tripesters. 1" plate with 3/4" side plates for your pins etc.

I made mine the opposite because of my cylinder. Either way it don't matter and will all work good!

My next vertical splitter will not have the cylinder move up and down for transport. It will be fixed and the vertical beam will pivot on the bottom. I'll have a cylinder move it from a 30deg angle for transport to 90 deg angle for splitting. Also have a hyd cylinder for log lift.

I do like the pulley system and it is very cheap and easy. But I hate having the thing moving up and down with every stroke. Yes I could make a latch system to keep it level when not using it, but I'm too lazy lol. My kids also get in the way of it or don't look out when I'm splitting and it comes up. They love taking the lift for a ride though!

 

[jthornton]

Triptester, thanks for the detailed photos. This is still only made of electrons so it is easy to change at this point. I looked again at my design and beefed it up to this.

View attachment 273572View attachment 273573View attachment 273574

I still haven't made up my mind if the traveling cylinder is worth the effort to make. On the other hand my beam is a bit short LOL.

John

 

[triptester]

I went with the 1/2"x 6" support plates after reaching many front mounted cylinders , outside the US front mounted cylinders are common, most use 3/8" plate.
The splitter in the pic has a 5" bore and has been abused for over 10 years with no deflection of the support plates.

 

[jthornton]

I went with the 1/2"x 6" support plates after reaching many front mounted cylinders , outside the US front mounted cylinders are common, most use 3/8" plate.
The splitter in the pic has a 5" bore and has been abused for over 10 years with no deflection of the support plates.

My base plate is 1/2" x 6" and I'm planning on using a 4" cylinder so I should be safe.

Thanks for the info.

John

 

[jthornton]

I removed the extra bracing in this depiction. I did extend the rear spacer back to the beam so it is 1" thick from the beam out.

View attachment 273588

Triptester what kind of axle did you use?

John

 

[triptester]

Tripster, thanks for the detailed photos. This is still only made of electrons so it is easy to change at this point. I looked again at my design and beefed it up to this.

View attachment 273572View attachment 273573View attachment 273574

I still haven't made up my mind if the traveling cylinder is worth the effort to make. On the other hand my beam is a bit short LOL.

John

If you eliminate the clevis maybe your beam will be long enough.
I also found the foot plate has to be much wider. With a 6" wide foot plate and 1/4" diamond plate table top deep indentations formedin the diamond plate either side of the foot.

 

[jthornton]

If you eliminate the clevis maybe your beam will be long enough.
I also found the foot plate has to be much wider. With a 6" wide foot plate and 1/4" diamond plate table top deep indentations formed in the diamond plate either side of the foot.

My beam is 60 3/4" long... I'll have to see how big of a piece of 3/4 I have for the foot plate. I was planning on surrounding it with framework and a working table similar to yours.

John

 

[triptester]

For axles I use 1 1/2" pipe and bolt-on hubs from front wheel drive cars, preferably Dodge because they are greaseable and the bearings can be replaced.

This pic is of an old axle that the square tube rotted out and was replaced with some 1/4" formed galvanized channel.

 

[triptester]

On average 48" or less is needed for the column. With five splitter builds and couunting ,while having the same basic function each build design has been determined by drops found. Square tube, rectangular tube, angle iron, or I-beam.
Getting the right balance point to prevent tipping or excessive tounge weight is critical.

 

[jthornton]

I looked up in my attic and over at the other shop and have 5 new B&S engines to pick from. I think the Intek's are the biggest at 190cc so I'll probably use one of them.

I think I'll explore the folding concept next. I did some recon work today and looked at some other splitters and I see what you mean by loosing the clevis. I guess it depends on the design of the rod, some are threaded and some just have a pin hole... I'm leaning toward the Prince 5" x 24" from splitez.com so I have to rework the design anyhow.

Thanks for all the help and keep the ideas coming.

John

 

[iowa]

Always remember KISS!

I was just looking on splitez website. I think I'm gonna go with a prince 4" bore, 24" stroke, 2" shaft tie rod cyl. 16 gpm pump and 8-10hp electric start engine!

 

[jthornton]

Just doing some comparisons and if I had no hardware and went with the 11GPM engine combo from spliteze it would cost me $850, plus if I go with trailer axle/hub and wheels that is another $250 while a complete ready to go 22 ton splitter costs me $1150 at Orschelns. Of course the spliteze parts need to add shipping and the Orschelns will add tax.

I know I'm just ranting cause if I give in and get one from Orschelns it won't be exactly what I want but it will split wood.

So I'm thinking with the beam I have I might as well go with a 5" bore and be able to split engine blocks in half for scrap or crush beer cans too. A 16GPM pump will move the ram faster than I can keep up I think and should work with the 190cc Briggs engine well enough.

Gotta do more checking but work gets in the way today.

John

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Unless you have all the parts laying around, it's pretty hard to make one for less than a new one. As you say, you make one because you want to, non offered that suits your needs, or your just crazy. I fall into all 3 of those!

 

[jthornton]

Unless you have all the parts laying around, it's pretty hard to make one for less than a new one. As you say, you make one because you want to, non offered that suits your needs, or your just crazy. I fall into all 3 of those!

I resemble that remark LOL, I might add that I will build one because I can.

I just emailed splitez with some questions about pumps and stuff they are selling.

John

 

[iowa]

Just doing some comparisons and if I had no hardware and went with the 11GPM engine combo from spliteze it would cost me $850, plus if I go with trailer axle/hub and wheels that is another $250 while a complete ready to go 22 ton splitter costs me $1150 at Orschelns. Of course the spliteze parts need to add shipping and the Orschelns will add tax.

I know I'm just ranting cause if I give in and get one from Orschelns it won't be exactly what I want but it will split wood.

So I'm thinking with the beam I have I might as well go with a 5" bore and be able to split engine blocks in half for scrap or crush beer cans too. A 16GPM pump will move the ram faster than I can keep up I think and should work with the 190cc Briggs engine well enough.

Gotta do more checking but work gets in the way today.

John

Hey. This style splitter is THE way to go! Don't get a big box store splitter. They're slow and not fun to use and once you get it you'll wish you had a log lift and your back will curse you every time you go out to split!

A few things to think about. After building mine... etc...5" bore is big. With a 16gpm pump it will be pretty slow. You need to go up to a 22gpm pump at the least for decent cycle times. When you go from a 16gpm pump to a 22gpm pump the price doubles!!! Pump, fittings, hoses, etc all double!

My splitter has a 4.5" bore with a 13gpm pump. It's ok. It splits everything with ease. So I'm looking for speed. My next build will be a 9hp electric start, 16gpm pump, and a 4" bore cylinder and 2" shaft.

I don't know your situation thoug and how much wood you split a yr. I split on average 4-6 cord a yr. But unless you split 20+ cord and want to put a 4 way wedge on it the 5" bore is way overkill and you'll be cursing it everytime you stroke it and wait, wait, wait, for it to retract to spin your round for the next split. Having a table splitter like this requires speed! You only spin the round. You're not picking up the wood off the ground or repositioning it much. Cylinder strokes down and pops the split, you stroke back up, push or spin the round over and you're ready. Pretty soon your table is filled with wood splits! I set my 18' flatbed next to my table and throw in there or split right next to were I stack. It goes very fast!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I resemble that remark LOL, I might add that I will build one because I can.

I just emailed splitez with some questions about pumps and stuff they are selling.

John

James at Splitez is one of the nicest guys you'll ever deal with. He helped me with parts and info in building mine and has a 5 star rating from me. He builds them himself so he's seen it all. Kevin