Splitter Design

[triptester]

When building a splitter it is to your benefit to go slow. Cylinders can be found on ebay at a good price, I got a new 5"x24" for $150 and a 22 gpm pump for $200. Pre-made hoses are available at farm stores for $20 or less apiece. Fittings can be had for less than $5 each. Most hydraulic shops will 2-5 times more.
A good place online for hydraulic fittings is DiscountHydraulicHose.com

 

[jthornton]

Yea, vertical is what I'll build... I just remembered I have two machine hoists (like a boat winch but for raising and lowering a load) that I can use to raise and lower the beam/cylinder. With a 190cc overhead valve engine on hand the mininum I have to purchase from splitez is:

4" x 24" x 2" Cyl EZ 4024 CW $159.95
2 Stage 13GPM EZ-1093-A $119.00
Detent Valve 3/4in 1/2out EZ-LSV-1 $59.95
$338.90

Plus a bengie for shipping I assume and get hoses locally and scrounge some bolt on hubs. Fab up a tank... seems doable for ~ $600 if I get the lowest cost components. Again I split 2-3 cords a year depending on the weather. I know my beam is way overkill for a 4" cylinder but it is what I have handy.

Next Level up with the same size cylinder
4" x 24" x 2" Cyl EZ 4024 LS-1.75 $250.00
2 Stage 13 GPM DYN Pump EZ-DY-13 $125.00
Prince Detent Valve 3/4 I/O 1/2W LS-3000-1 $87.00
$462.00

So I wonder what my $123 for better components gets me? Guess I need to call James and bend his ear a bit as I've not got a reply to my email from this morning...

John

 

[jthornton]

When building a splitter it is to your benefit to go slow. Cylinders can be found on ebay at a good price, I got a new 5"x24" for $150 and a 22 gpm pump for $200. Pre-made hoses are available at farm stores for $20 or less apiece. Fittings can be had for less than $5 each. Most hydraulic shops will 2-5 times more.
A good place online for hydraulic fittings is DiscountHydraulicHose.com

I want to use one of the 190cc Briggs engines I have so I'm assuming I'll have to stay in the 11 to 13 GPM area of pumps.

A friend of mine gave me a hand pump splitter (I think he is a friend LOL) and for grins I split a piece of dry white oak about 8" in diameter... much easier to use the old double blade axe. In any case I thought I'd see what it could do. For a laugh this is the hand jobby... what a waste.

View attachment 273853

John

 

[jthornton]

Checking some cycle times (unloaded) for various cylinder diameters with the stroke limited to 20" (I cut 18" mostly) and with a 13 GPM pump (that is all I think the 190cc motor will do)

4" x 1 3/4" = 9 seconds
4 1/2" x 1 3/4" = 12 seconds
5" x 2" = 15 seconds

Now I know the cycle times will be slower when your splitting and go into low gear with the pump. I'm assuming the bigger the cylinder the longer the pump will stay in high gear as it has more force per pound of pressure. Also I don't move very fast due to a bit of dead meat in my heart...

I don't really care much for flea bay any more and pay sow even sucks more IMHO. So I'm in the market for a new cylinder.

Price get high fast with a 5" cylinder... 4" x 24" ranges from $150 - $300 at splitez and 4 1/2" x 24" is $287 (only one choice at splitez) and 5" x 24" ranges from $377 - $575.

I guess splitez doesn't check their email often, I've sent two requests with no answer yet.

John

 

[triptester]

Check Surplus center they have a large choice of cylinders and hydraulics.

Here is a link for a 5x24x2 cylinder Surplus Center - 5x24x2 HYDRAULIC DA LOG SPLITTER CYLINDER

 

[jthornton]

For axles I use 1 1/2" pipe and bolt-on hubs from front wheel drive cars, preferably Dodge because they are greaseable and the bearings can be replaced.

This pic is of an old axle that the square tube rotted out and was replaced with some 1/4" formed galvanized channel.

I got this axle from the salvage yard today, said it is a Dodge type K whatever that is... I got just about everything including the hub caps!

View attachment 274044

John

 

[iowa]

Hey. I got one just like that a month ago. It's going on my splitter soon! Just need some good tires first.

I'm glad that wasn't a picture of a store bought splitter!

 

[jthornton]

Hey. I got one just like that a month ago. It's going on my splitter soon! Just need some good tires first.

I'm glad that wasn't a picture of a store bought splitter!

I almost caved in for a nanosecond or two...

The axle as it is is 5' and I think the Kubota is about 4' so I need to shorten the axle so the splitter can go where the Kubota goes.

John

 

[triptester]

With that axle to shorten I make 2 cuts. The first cut is next to the vertical plate just enough to sever the rod inside the U-channel. The second cut is 2" from the 1/2" vertical plate. This leaves a fish mouth near perfect for 1 1/2" pipe. There will be 2 tabs left between the first and second cuts that can be wrapped around the pipe for welding. The location of the cuts are marked on the left side.

 

[jthornton]

With that axle to shorten I make 2 cuts. The first cut is next to the vertical plate just enough to sever the rod inside the U-channel. The second cut is 2" from the 1/2" vertical plate. This leaves a fish mouth near perfect for 1 1/2" pipe. There will be 2 tabs left between the first and second cuts that can be wrapped around the pipe for welding. The location of the cuts are marked on the left side.

My plan was to use the axle and grind off the weld for the tube and make a cut in the middle to remove a section. Then weld the center back with a little fish mouth for extra strength then weld the tube back in and cut it off to original. I have the springs and other hardware to mount it as is... still thinking on that. I understand what your saying about using the 1 1/2" pipe and that makes sense too. The U tube is 3/16" thick so I think that will be plenty strong.

Removing the hubs in this photo... does the hub press out of the brake drum?
View attachment 274073

John

 

[triptester]

Yes the drums come off the hub. Back off the brake shoes, spray penetrating oil around hub and studs, then you have to beat on the drums to break them loose. They are suppose to slide on and off but are usually rusted in place. With the axle off the car it's eazier to cut the drum in half to remove.

Shortened Dodge axle with 1 1/2" pipe.

 

[jthornton]

Yes the drums come off the hub. Back off the brake shoes, spray penetrating oil around hub and studs, then you have to beat on the drums to break them loose. They are suppose to slide on and off but are usually rusted in place. With the axle off the car it's eazier to cut the drum in half to remove.

Shortened Dodge axle with 1 1/2" pipe.

About how wide did you make your axle overall including wheels. One thing for sure using trailer springs would be an easier way to hook it up than what I was thinking about yesterday.

John

 

[triptester]

The frame is 48" wide and there is 1" of clearance between the tires and frame rails. Overall 64" width.

 

[mhrischuk]

Steel comes usually 20', 24', or 40' long so if I need a W8x28lb beam 16' long the leftover 4' is called a "drop". The customer pays for 20' and if they have no use for the "drop" I keep it.

John

Hey just saw in your sig you have a JD 310A. I have one too. Just a quick one not to take this off topic too much. Have you rebuilt the injection pump yet? I did mine last year. The governor assy inside falls apart.

 

[jthornton]

Hey just saw in your sig you have a JD 310A. I have one too. Just a quick one not to take this off topic too much. Have you rebuilt the injection pump yet? I did mine last year. The governor assy inside falls apart.

Yes, I had the injector pump rebuilt a few years ago. A couple of years ago I had the hydraulic pump rebuilt... turns out the one of the few re-builders for that type of pump is located about 60 miles from me. Talk about a difference in power after putting the rebuilt pump in and changing both hydraulic filters. Hard to start in cold weather and don't idle well but she is mine and has dug and moved a lot of the hills around here.

John

 

[jthornton]

I've decided to go with leaf springs just to simplify the build. I came home with a pair of 1000lb springs and after some higher cyphering I determined that they didn't look right so I took them back and for $3 more per spring got a pair of 1750lb springs... which look much better.

View attachment 274173

Now to finalize the design and remove the excess metal from the axle and shorten it up and make it ready for the springs.

John

 

[jthornton]

I had a little time this morning to work on the K axle.

Stripped off the excess parts except for the shock mounts, not sure if I need them at this point.
View attachment 274284

Drilled out the tube so it will slide out when I shorten the axle.
View attachment 274285

So far I have the axle, the 190cc Briggs engines (about 7hp) and the steel. So a 13GPM is the biggest pump the engine will swing AFAIK. The big choice at this point is the cylinder size. Do I just go with the 4" x 24" which will give me 9 second unloaded cycle time with the stroke shortened to 20" (I cut 18" long for my tiny stove). And the big question is to go with Made in USA for the pump and valve for $250 or Chinleese for $180?

Much to ponder...

John

 

[jthornton]

I got the axle drawn up in SW so I'm making progress.

View attachment 274723

John

 

[iowa]

Nice! If you're going with 13gpm. Go with a 4" cylinder. And go with USA made valve and pump. Duh. You work in manufacturing! The worst thing you can do is buy chinolla crap!

 

[jthornton]

Nice! If you're going with 13gpm. Go with a 4" cylinder. And go with USA made valve and pump. Duh. You work in manufacturing! The worst thing you can do is buy chinolla crap!

I got my mind right now boss... I'll get my dirt out of your hole now.

John