Starting a cut

[junker]

What little I've read about bucking, it says to start the cut on underside of log and finish up on top, so the chain doesn't get pinched.

How do ya'll do this type of bucking, when the trunk is horizonal on ground or resting on something, so you have the option of getting the bar under to begin?

Thanks

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I just cut most of the way through and then roll the log over and finish after doing all of the top cuts. No way of getting the chain in the dirt. Dont go too far and it wont pinch

 

[ricksvar]

Allways take a maul and plastic wedges when cutting.Depending on the lay of the log,and size,you may not be able to turn it over.
If the cut starts to close and pinch the chain,drive a wedge into the top of the cut to open it back up.

Take your time and be careful.

 

[slowtorque1]

The technique for bucking a felled tree will depend on the stresses present in the section you intend to cut. You may have either tension or compression on the bottom. Generally, you make the first cut in the compression side. Stop the cut when you observe the wood beginning to squeeze your bar. If the cut starts to open up, you have misinterpreted the stresses in the wood. There are a number of ways to prevent or at least minimize the chances of getting your bar stuck. I'd do an internet search on bucking and see what you can find.

 

[tony marks]

as was said study whats written. but the only way to really get a feel of whats happening and what to do about it is on the job .jmo. after a while u get where u can read it pretty good. not so good that u shouldnt be ready for the unexpected.
its my opinion that next to being a novice, this latter stage in learning is the most dangerous.u never know for sure what that things gonna do. especially storm downed an leaning trees.
ps u mite want to pick up a cant hook for what husky was talkin about. im in the market for a good one myself.

 

[che]

"There are a number of ways to prevent or at least minimize the chances of getting your bar stuck. "

And for the times that you do get caught....if you're any distance from home, always go out with TWO saws. Been there, done that...........

Che

 

[slowtorque1]

A good point, for sure! n/m

Outstanding point!

 

[Ryan Willock]

instead of taking two saws one option is to take a spare bar and chain. when you get your saw stuck you can remove the bar thats on it and replace it with the other one and finish the cut and retrive your other bar. i like to work with a felling lever/cant hook. it makes things so much eaiser:angel:

 

[eyolf]

These folks are giving great advice, but I'd like to add my $0.02; every time you go to the woods or to the woodpile, stop a minute to smell the fresh air, listen to the birdies sing and enjoy the day and your good health. Then think about how each step you take with every tool you've got could put a crimp in your style.

I've knocked down a couple of trees, I guess, bucked a few logs and a few sticks of firewood, too. I thought I was a pretty good woodsman once, and figured I could work as hard and fast in the woods as anyone. Until I had a kickback that came near...did cut my jacket and hat, nicked my ear. Later, I saw a man get driven into the ground like a tent peg.

Every step is preceded by a moment's thought now.

 

[slowtorque1]

Safety first!

Can't say enough about that, mini soda man. Logging fatalities here in NC continue to happen despite a tremendous outreach effort made by state safety and health professionals and insurance companies. The kickback-related deaths are much lower than they used to be, presumably due to the proliferation of mechanical fellers and greater acceptance and use of protective clothing. I don't pick up a saw everyday and find that after I have been away from it for a while, I need a few minutes to refamiliarize myself with its behavior and the way it reacts while working.

John

 

[Tony Snyder]

There will be many places where you can get some limbs placed straticially under the trunk to support it while you buck. Think ahead. At the same time you do not want the trunk to roll, you may have to chalk with some cut pieces.

Trying to tell someone how to be a smart firewood cutter in written words, is about as difficult as trying to write dance instructions.

 

[JimL]

bucking/topping i usually just start on the top of the tree where the compression is cut 1/3 to 1/2 way through, then bring my saw back to where only 6 inches or so is in the tree, go straight down about 6 inches and plunge in, cut down to the bottom, then go back up and take out the bit holding in the middle.

If there is alot of stress from the top I will just cut half way on top and move over 2 inches or so and cut up from the bottom.


I like the 2nd bar and chain idea. I usually have 4 or 5 saws on hand of my own..

Not saying my way is safe, its just the way i do it

 

[treeclimber165]

Cant Hook

For those of you who need a Cant Hook, Sherrill sells them. It is one of several valuable tools when handling large wood on the ground.
Item #16066 $64
(click on the Sherrill ad above, go to the store and type the item number in the search box)

 

[Frans]

are you cutting to mill the wood?

If you are cutting to length- 16'-18'-20' lengths
then most of your trunk wood will be laying down.
so rolling the log is out of the question-well maybe if it is 'dog hair' you could roll it but usually you need to cut as it lays.
One thing to think about is the lenghts need to be uniform. But the butt end is the most valuable in the sense of having the most board feet within it.
I start measuring at the butt and move towards the tip.
When I cut I pay especial attention to (like mentioned already) commpression/ commpression wood.
If the log is under compression I like to start by plunge cutting into the bottom of the log. Just about an inch into the wood, go all the way through and then cut up to the top, as the log pinches the cut closed the piece on the bottom holds it open until I have completed the cut then it tears the piece off.

Expert training advised
frans

 

[Tim Gardner]

Originally posted by junker
What little I've read about bucking, it says to start the cut on underside of log and finish up on top, so the chain doesn't get pinched.

How do ya'll do this type of bucking, when the trunk is horizonal on ground or resting on something, so you have the option of getting the bar under to begin?

Thanks

The wedges on our trucks rarely leave the box. When the cut begins to close I will find a stick or piece of bark and jam it in. Some heavy logs will require more than one stick. Just break it off and stick it back in. Most times this will allow me to finish the cut without pinching. This also works for flushing large stumps.

 

[sedanman]

One more note. It is very dangerous for anyone to use a chainsaw alone. If you get hurt or trapped by a falling limb/tree you need someone to help you. We're all guilty of thinking we're invinceable.......WE'RE NOT!

 

[tundraotto]

I could not do without my wedges when bucking. The wood is often over 30" in diameter and the log is laying too close to the ground to get underneath anyway - its easier on me to cut down anyway. Start the cut and once you have enough clearance to slide a wedge in do it. Whack it with the back of your hand so it does not fall out easily and cut. I dont usually cut all the way except every 3 bucking cuts so I can still roll the logs and finish the 2 cuts that I left incomplete. This way I minimize rocking the chain out on unlevel ground.

BTW. 3 pieces of 20" lengths of hardwood stuck together roll relatively easily by one person.

 

[ricksvar]

I agree tundraotto,where I come from starting a cut on the underside of a log is sorta like going about it "bass ackwards".
Then again,theres different strokes for different folks.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I usually make a plunge cut and come up until I have just a little holding wood. Then I cut down as far as I can. The tab gets cut when I get done with the main cut. This holding wood keeps the bar from getting pinched. Roll the log and finish cutting.

 

[tundraotto]

when the bucking log is down? dont you think thats a little hard on your saw and your own a$$? That is a lot of trouble just to cut a log in pieces. I guess you are just really pumped up to cut a log in sections every time you do. Personally I try to take it relatively easy on myself - and go with it so to speak. I feel that plunge cuts are called for they are - plunging. It is a very rare occasion and one very few and far between that I use them while bucking. I would feel comfortable in saying that I love my wife and life so I dont EVER use plunge cut when I'm bucking, but hey, thats just me.

:angel:

PS. plunge cuts dont always make for nice bar pinches anyway - its no fun when you have to puss out and cut out with another saw after some f.up(s)