Starting the splitter build.

[Operator]

I'm finally starting the splitter build, the last thread I considered a vertical but after long thought I will be building a horzontal . First purchase will be a RuggedMade 5"x 3.5" ram for quick return cycle time, 3/4 ports and its around$500.00. I have a 8' wide x 3/4" beam that I will mount the cylinder.
Its definitely gonna have a 4 way but If its capable of a 6 way I will also have one to those.

Does anyone have suggestions for GPM, 22 seems like it would be a good mate for the cylinder? I can get a 17 horse Briggs engine off of a lawnmower or from Harbor Freight I can get a 15.8 HP Predator side shaft that would probably make it easier .
I really liked the RUGGEDSPLIT 737-24-HE LOG SPLITTER: 37-TON, this splitter will be similar the the rugged except I will position the wedge over the rear because after I complete the splitter I plan on a conveyor.

I have 12 cord of ash bucked and sitting on the ground not counting around 8 cord split and stacked in the shed ready for next year. It takes me about 2.5 hours to split 1 cord with the ole brave. I made my mind up that I'm retiring the brave and gonna finish the pile with the new splitter.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

• SKU: 34-153-CYLN-02-175
• Manufacturer: RuggedMade
• Part Number: W35503028-CLDH(1.75)
• Cylinder Type: Welded
• Action: Double-Acting
• Bore (ID): 5"
• Stroke: 30"
• Rod (OD): 3.5"
• Rod End (OD): 1.75"
• Mounting Type: Clevis

• Mounting Pin (OD): 1.25"
• Rod End Type: Hole
• Rod End Pin (OD): 7/16"
• Work Ports: 3/4" NPT(F)
• Max Working Pressure: 3,000 PSI
• Retracted Length:
  The length between the center of the rod end hole and the center of the base end hole when the rod is fully retracted.
  39.76" (pin to pin, center on center)
• Extended Length: 69.76" (pin to pin, center on center)
• Cylinder Length: 41.77" (retracted, edge to edge)
• Product Weight: 125.00 lbs

 

[bigbadbob]

I have a 22gpm mated to GX390 13hp feeds a 5x24 cylinder. 15 gallon reservoir.
No issues work great.

 

[Operator]

I have a 22gpm mated to GX390 13hp feeds a 5x24 cylinder. 15 gallon reservoir.
No issues work great. View attachment 1070237

Nice splitter, I have an old compressor tank that I plan on cutting down around 15-20 gallons.
What is the trailer ball in the middle?

 

[bigbadbob]

The ball is just sitting there, i put it in the coupler when locking it.
The splitter has propbaly split 50 or more cord,, no issues.

 

[kyle1!]

Look on marketplace or CL for a used hydraulic tank. It will save some time fabricating one. That is a weird looking beam?

 

[bigbadbob]

Yes the beam and then top plated with one inch plate.

 

[Karrl]

Prince manufacturing makes good auto cycle and auto return valves and haldex makes a quality two stage pump. I have both brands on two different Iron and Oak splitters and each have hundreds of cords on them and they both work great with no major failures.

If you do go auto cycle they can be a little finicky, with my unit it needs adjusting depending on oil temperature. IMO auto return is all you really need.

 

[Karrl]

And if you’re looking for fast cycle times with that large bore piston look into an oil cooler or at least have a 20+ gallon oil capacity.

I have a large bore piston on my one splitter with a 7 second cycle time and I have to let it cool down after a full tank of fuel or else the piston and hoses get so hot you’d burn yourself.

 

[Billhook]

Log lifter and table so you do not need to keep lifting heavy logs and then bending to pick up the splits?

 

[James Sawyer]

I build this one for my dad 24 years ago and rebuilt it within the last 5 years. I bought very little new steel most of it from recycling/scrap yards. I would suggest getting a different I-beam that 5" cylinder will side load the beam with crooked grain wood. If you spend the time to build yours, its not worth the effort if you have beam problems. I'm not saying your beam won't work I just think a heaver beam would be worth the extra cost. Also, I wouldn't use a harbor freight motor just my opinion, lot of people do use them but my experience they have annoying issues with carburetor, fuel tank and starter, recoil etc. See if you can find a used riding lawn mower with good engine that deck is shot. The 1st engine on this was a used rider motor that I replaced the rings, and ground the valves. My dad is hard on stuff and ran the heck out of this... its on it's forth motor. When it was 1st build he was slitting 5 cords a day 5 days a week he's a retired logger here in PNW. I build the oil tank out some square tubing ran the return line up with pipe to spray the oil against the top of the tank to help cool. With high volume pump you're going want big enough tank to help cool the oil. A 22 gallon 2 stage pump would be nice. Looking forward to see your build. Oh... these can be pretty loud so I took 3 can mufflers and made my own with the extra baffles.

 

[Operator]

Look on marketplace or CL for a used hydraulic tank. It will save some time fabricating one. That is a weird looking beam?

 

[Operator]

10-4 on craigslist, It used to be a 20" beam. My buddy has 100' laying around so he gave me a piece. I will gusset it and weld another plate on top.

 

[Operator]

Prince manufacturing makes good auto cycle and auto return valves and haldex makes a quality two stage pump. I have both brands on two different Iron and Oak splitters and each have hundreds of cords on them and they both work great with no major failures.

If you do go auto cycle they can be a little finicky, with my unit it needs adjusting depending on oil temperature. IMO auto return is all you really need.

I am definitely using Prince valves, I not sure about auto cycle probably just gonna go with auto return. I will only split around 6 cord a year myself unless my son takes my advice and sells seasoned firewood for a little extra money.

Billhook 10-4 on the lift arm. It will save me money in ibuprofen.

 

[Operator]

I build this one for my dad 24 years ago and rebuilt it within the last 5 years. I bought very little new steel most of it from recycling/scrap yards. I would suggest getting a different I-beam that 5" cylinder will side load the beam with crooked grain wood. If you spend the time to build yours, its not worth the effort if you have beam problems. I'm not saying your beam won't work I just think a heaver beam would be worth the extra cost. Also, I wouldn't use a harbor freight motor just my opinion, lot of people do use them but my experience they have annoying issues with carburetor, fuel tank and starter, recoil etc. See if you can find a used riding lawn mower with good engine that deck is shot. The 1st engine on this was a used rider motor that I replaced the rings, and ground the valves. My dad is hard on stuff and ran the heck out of this... its on it's forth motor. When it was 1st build he was slitting 5 cords a day 5 days a week he's a retired logger here in PNW. I build the oil tank out some square tubing ran the return line up with pipe to spray the oil against the top of the tank to help cool. With high volume pump you're going want big enough tank to help cool the oil. A 22 gallon 2 stage pump would be nice. Looking forward to see your build. Oh... these can be pretty loud so I took 3 can mufflers and made my own with the extra baffles.

That looks very close to my build. I am going to weld gussets on both sides about every 8-12 inches for the potential flex and weld another 3/4 plate on the top 2 inches wider than the top flange for the slide.
Biggest question is will the lawn engine work? I've read that they have a tapered shaft that makes it difficult to find couplers and attach it to the pump.
I have some options for finned coolers that would be capable of the 22gmp need.

 

[Yarz]

I have some options for finned coolers that would be capable of the 22gmp need.

Beware that if your cooler is on the return (and all of your fluid goes through the cooler), your cooler will need to be able to handle a greater flow than 22gpm. How much greater will depend on the rod size of your cylinder.

 

[cantoo]

6 cord a year won't take long. I made my own. 36" stroke, 4 way hydraulic wedge. Just built the rounds table.

 

[ande5657]

I have a 22gpm mated to GX390 13hp feeds a 5x24 cylinder. 15 gallon reservoir.
No issues work great. View attachment 1070237

 

[ande5657]

Nice set up I can’t figure the ball in between slides of beam I’m missing something lol

 

[bigbadbob]

Nice set up I can’t figure the ball in between slides of beam I’m missing something lol

I lock that in the hitch when storing it,,, a little deterrent,,
Its loose ,,

 

[sean donato]

Your beam is going to flex quite a bit in hard knots, same mistake I made with my first splitter. Ended up being quite the process to cut everything off and install a heavier beam, and add reinforcements.
I'm running 16gpm pump, and it's faster then I can deal with the wood by myself, but a bit slow when I have help (which is about never) auto return is all you'll really need. If you're going to run a larger pump I'd look to get a dump valve to bypass the splitter valve. Helps flow more oil for a faster return cycle and doesn't fore it all to go through the splitter valve, which helps with the heat aspect.
Yes, it will have more then enough power for a 4/6 way wedge, which will put more stress on the beam. Make sure you make it easy to swap out for a single wedge, don't send anything to gnarly through the 4 or 6 way.
Any engine with a straight shaft can be easily coupled to a pump, I reuse quite a few engines off mowers, I have yet to come across one with a tapered shaft. All have been straight keyed shafts. I'm sure the tapered shaft is out there in some applications, but it's usually a generator/pump drive application. So I wouldn't be too worried about it.
Log lifts are a God send. I wouldn't be without one since I put one on mine. Also, since you're making it, figure out a good working height for you. I always thought production models are too short or to tall for my liking. So I made it a comfortable height for me.
Good luck and keep us posted, always like seeing how others build splitters.