Stihl 015 Tophandle

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Carb. I can't find the numerical designation I am accustomed to seeing on carbs. Would anyone be able to tell me where else to look on this Walbro so I can order the correct diaphragm and gasket set? Yes, I did get a link sent earlier by jakewells for HDC K10 repair kit, but what Walbro carb is this one??? Is it HDC 17A? (duh?) Sorry.





 
I do believe someone's been in this saw at some point, not really unusual, but there is RTV under the cap for the points/condensor, though there is other evidence of someone getting into it I'll post up in a bit.



Which is here of course--shouldn't there be a gasket here? Or at least a remnant of a gasket??





No gasket remnants, but there was some evidence of RTV, but don't know if this was just spill-over or something since it didn't appear to be in the joint. But I'm accustomed to seeing a gasket here, like on my other saws. Could it be that my bore/piston/ring is fine, and that my compression loss is here where there should be some sort of a gasket?
 
So this is a fun part. I wish I had taken the classic underside of the saw photo before I did the tear down, but here is the best I can do now. This bolt does not appear to be a stock feature on everyone else's 015L does it??









It appears this was added in, the bracket, and the bolt holding it in place. The side of the hex head of the bolt had been ground down so it would sit flush against the side of the bracket and not turn when the nut on the underside was tightened on. I'm not quite sure the purpose of this as I am sure it was not stock/OEM, but added in for some reason I have yet to figure out. At any rate, my modification to this will be to Mig weld a nut to the inside, so I can put a button-head machine screw thru from the underside that will do the same job but look more "attractive" Not really sure why the PO felt they needed to add in this feature.
Yes, that is the fuel line coming thru it.
 
Getting sick of my pictures yet?? Hope not, since I do respect the input of the forum to my questions and issues.

Fuel/Chain oil tanks, the gasket here looks fine, I will likely gum it down with some gasket sealer before I put it back together, unless told to just put it together dry. There was no leakage apparent before I took it apart, and I had lube and fuel mix in it for a week before I tore into it.





And of course, the obligatory pile-O'-parts on the table from the work in progress.



So I'm happy to hear your thoughts on all the above posts. What I will be doing will be to clean up all the parts I have prior to placing hopefully only one order for new parts sometime early next week so I can get this puppy back together. The initial problems I noticed with this saw was that it would idle, but would not rev, and had compression of 70 psi. I am concerned that there should be a case-cylinder gasket which appears to be non-existent. There is some PO modified bracket inside and the mystery bolt holding it in place, I think the piston/bore/ring is fine, and I need to verify my ID of the Walbro carburetor and figure out the points gap. Somewhere I read 19 thousandths but need confirmation.

My parts I feel I need to order at this point is the fuel line/filter, carb rebuild kit, and gasket between crank case and cylinder.
 
TWO of them. Wow. Yes, if you can see on your carb where the designation is. I'm just trying to verify mine.
 
One hasn't turned up yet, its a $20 parts saw. The other, looks complete but I haven't had a good look yet.

Pretty stoked you started this thread, keep posting the photos.
 
I suppose if I manage to clean up all the parts and get the grime off of them, I can show off some more photos. What I really want to show off is me throwing chips across the yard with this puppy. Or The Dragon Lady throwing chips........
 
Well, I am finding this looking about on the innerweb and on the forum. Of course just about anything that gets posted up is helpful. Hopefully what I post up in this thread ends up being helpful to everyone who looks at the thread since I make it practically a point of honor to make sure I close out my threads.

http://www.walbro.com/media/21889/HDCseries.pdf Covering HCD series Walbro carbs.

And this Forum thread on 015 and Walbro Carb question. However it is an old thread that never got closed out.

And of course a ton of other stuff on HDC 17A Walbro carbs, so I believe that is the correct nomenclature of the carb currently on my project saw. Sadly, it seems I often have issues in rebuilding carbs correctly and getting them adjusted and running right. Sometimes I get it, often enough I don't and it ends up being frustrating. When you're stupid, your whole body suffers.........:cold:
 
I hope you have an easier time than me trying to get the handle back over the trigger when you reassemble it.
 
Of course I'll let you know. The sad part is that it will be a while before it goes back together since it takes me so long to get parts shipped out to me once I order them. Right now the part that is concerning me is how to get those 12 roller bearings back around the crank to rod bearing, and what holds them in place once it all goes back together. Sure I've packed roller bearings in and glued them in place with grease, but somehow these look like they may be a bit of a challenge. When it comes to things like this I find I'm a dodeca-thumbed blind thalidomide spastic. Should be fun though, I get to use special swear words when I do this and I have a Dept Homeland Security buddy who speaks 7 languages who can come over and lend me extra swear words if I need them.
 
Wondering when you were going to weigh in on the thread......now just gotta raise Roanoker and see what he can contribute to the general knowledge I am so woefully lacking. But you gotta recognize this is a great little saw, you know I have to balance out all my Ropers with something. And of course since I only have a dozen saws now and about 4 parts saws, I have to do something to keep up with you mainland chip-throwers.
 
Roanoker has not posted in a coons age. I'd have to get on the 'puter to see when he last posted. Don't hardly use it since I got this IPhone.

Take special care of the choke handle on an 015 as it is easily broken or lost and renders the saw worthless.

Otherwise there are a ton of them out there as family heirlooms. I've fixed several but never would do a full rebuild on one.

I'm into Echo CS341 types myself. Ex. Little saws.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420980510.788867.jpg
 
I just know there has to be a cylinder-crankcase gasket in this thing of some type, figure I'll end up having to fabricate my own. I don't know if this is a spot I can use Yamabond/dirko like I use for putting clamshell gas tanks back together like on my Ropers. I think also the thickness of the gasket is kinda key as well.

I did come across this 015 Parts list PDF which doesn't seem to show/list a gasket.
 
Okay, I will put a cautious smear of Yamabond there. So far it looks like I will try to just get a new ring, carb kit, and fuel line and go from there. As of now I have everything cleaned up and baking dry in the burning tropical sun. I do have the link to the full piston/wrist pin/ring set but only want to put in a new ring just for good measure. I'm not sure it really needs that, but it seems it is a good minimum. I have bought rings from the Greek before, I'll have to see what is available.
 
I did some mooching around the innerweb, ordered a new ring from the Greek, and a fuel line/filter and carb rebuild kit from the link sent to me back on page one. I am guessing it will take a whole week or 2 to have everything here, and then I'll carve out a bit of time to put this thing back together again and see what it does/see if it will run and have better compression after all that. Keeping fingers crossed. I know the drive sprocket is worn, I suppose I can spring for a new one if it runs real nice and I haven't boogered it up. I'm thinking actually that I could spot weld fill in there with the Mig, and then dress it down with a burr on the die grinder and eliminate all those wear grooves. Would that be a bad idea? To get a new sprocket and rim out here to the Sandwich Islands would run me about $30 more on this project at this point.
 
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