Stihl 08s Project Rebuild

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
One thing I've noticed on your epoxy builds. Everywhere the epoxy is to adhere to the alloy, you need to remove all the oxidized alloy, and get the cleaned up alloy as shiny as you have in the keys. If you leave in place any oxidized alloy the bond will give up eventually. I use a dremel with a fine bit to dig out all the cavities and roughen up the cleaned up surfaces.

I had a friend that restored Ferraris, he told me this. He would get the base down to fresh unoxidized aluminum alloy, then prime with etching primer, then build from there. He primed to safeguard against any reverse damage to the original alloy in case of any future restorations, don't think you need to do this with Stihls.

Jerry was Chicago Italian with connections, who was I to question him?
 
Before I built the frankensaw, I ran its original 56cc only once. Now can't remember what that was like. The 60cc 08s can handle 12" oak, it runs slower than modern saws. I use the TS350 to cut mostly metals and some concrete block/brick, but concrete is messy. The early 08s I ran once also, not worth it to use that one any.

Did want to point out that going from 56cc to 60cc is no problem. But the early 08s' 44mm diameter cylinder has a stepped bottom flange, longer back studs and maybe stud center-to-center spacing is less. So i don't know if you can upsize an early 08s.
 
One thing I've noticed on your epoxy builds. Everywhere the epoxy is to adhere to the alloy, you need to remove all the oxidized alloy, and get the cleaned up alloy as shiny as you have in the keys. If you leave in place any oxidized alloy the bond will give up eventually. I use a dremel with a fine bit to dig out all the cavities and roughen up the cleaned up surfaces.

I had a friend that restored Ferraris, he told me this. He would get the base down to fresh unoxidized aluminum alloy, then prime with etching primer, then build from there. He primed to safeguard against any reverse damage to the original alloy in case of any future restorations, don't think you need to do this with Stihls.

Jerry was Chicago Italian with connections, who was I to question him?
I don’t upload pictures of every stage, but everything that contacts epoxy gets wirewheeled and cleaned prior even if I don’t upload it here.209C3A09-3282-44D0-B7E6-18BD6AE95A10.jpeg
 
Scratching my head on the best way to repair this crack...

Drill a small hole at the end, clamp and Jb weld from the underside?

Strip paint, drill hole at the end, v groove it from the top, repair with Jb from above, sand flat and repaint whole thing?

drill a tiny hole, fill it with JB weld and leave?

Replace cover?

6F080327-B1DD-420A-9F66-8586F73B4121.jpeg
 
Scratching my head on the best way to repair this crack...

Drill a small hole at the end, clamp and Jb weld from the underside?

Strip paint, drill hole at the end, v groove it from the top, repair with Jb from above, sand flat and repaint whole thing?

drill a tiny hole, fill it with JB weld and leave?

Replace cover?

View attachment 908979
I don't know if you can stitch cracks in thin cast material but it could be fun. Would look great too.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal...industrial,carried out cold, without welding.
 
Scratching my head on the best way to repair this crack...

Drill a small hole at the end, clamp and Jb weld from the underside?

Strip paint, drill hole at the end, v groove it from the top, repair with Jb from above, sand flat and repaint whole thing?

drill a tiny hole, fill it with JB weld and leave?

Replace cover?

View attachment 908979
High stress area, just replace it. Having it welded will cost more than a used replacement.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top