Stihl MS180 Connecting Rod

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The best position for the crank when doing a brainless job such as this, is 90 degrees. Minimal load on rod and piston both. The ONLY sensible way to get the clutch off is with an impact wrench, PERIOD!!!!
 
The best position for the crank when doing a brainless job such as this, is 90 degrees. Minimal load on rod and piston both. The ONLY sensible way to get the clutch off is with an impact wrench, PERIOD!!!!

Impacts have been known to knock cranks out of alignment. You wouldn't use a hammer on a saw--why would you use an air hammer?
 
Please now contemplate the quadrillion+ rpms that the 170/180 rods have successfully moved the piston up and down. If you follow the Stihl service manual you will not bend the rod, nor hole the piston.

John I got a couple questions. Dose a 170/180 come with a Stihl service manual when you buy one? Will a Stihl dealer sell the customer a service manual? If they do, how much does the Stihl dealer charge for such a manual?

I got no dog in this fight and dont really care, just wondering out loud.....
 
Whatever, if you use the impact method, nothing will bend or break. Depending on the brand, I either use an impact wrench, or a hammer
and punch, very rarely will I employ any piston stop of any kind.

That is just me though.....
 
I knew this thread would bring you out! :hmm3grin2orange:

Well well lookie here, its Space, how ya doing mutter ducker. This thread didn't bring me out, I was just walking by and noticed it. Ok, I admits it, like a Wendy burger, I couldn't resist,LOLOL

(pssst, should I showem how strong that little rod and piston really is,hehe)
 
John I got a couple questions. Dose a 170/180 come with a Stihl service manual when you buy one? Will a Stihl dealer sell the customer a service manual? If they do, how much does the Stihl dealer charge for such a manual?

I got no dog in this fight and dont really care, just wondering out loud.....

no,no, dohno...
 
Yes, they survive under typical use and when carefully following the Stihl prescrived service practices. However, IMHO, that's still no excuse to build a saw that is so fragile to work on. There's no excuse to build a saw with a stamped steel connecting rod. The rest of the saw is nearly equally as fragile. That just need not be. We don't hear of these issues with the competition.
Every one of the bazillion Poulan Wild Thing family saws, including the PP260 types, has a stamped con rod. You don't hear much about them breaking because they work fine. The difference is that it's properly designed and considerably stouter.

The problem is not that it's stamped, it's that it's junk.
 
Glad I stopped by.

Hey Tom, I haven't seen you posting in a while, good to know you're still out there.

Mod Mark, some times you just have to know people that know people that can help...

Mark

Mark, I guess its a good thing I know you then!

Where you been? Globetrotting again?

I got a couple ole yeller ones here on the floor, made me think of you.
 
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