holy h, that's alot of pumps!When you get that one done...wanna do a few more?View attachment 1192880
Put up a photo of the pump. If it is metal you might be able to disassemble it and clean it up.
See the control bolt (adjustment screw) shaft. About halfway down is a black about 1mm diameter roll pin. Push out the roll pin using a suitable pin in a drill press or similar.
Once the pin is out the control bolt can be pulled straight out. That should allow the pump piston to move towards the brass end plug and will free up a straight through path to the in and out of the pump. The control bolt may have one or two "O" rings on it to seal the shaft. Once the "O" rings are removed there is nothing but metal left.
Control bolt removal and piston shift may allow enough access for solvents to clean everything. If not your next step is to figure out if you can remove the brass plug on the left side. Older pumps had a plastic plug. Newer ones have apparently moved to the brass plug to discourage disassembly and repair. I don't know how tight it is in there. At this point you don't have a lot to loose.
Let us know how you make out.
pair of pliers, taped so they don't mar the pump.This might actually work, if I can manage to put the pin back into place, and the pump hasn't taken some weird damage to it, so it doesn't work....
Awesome stuff!
Thanks!!![]()
It would probably be a good idea to shoot some carb or brake cleaner through the pump with the piston backed out to make sure that the pump chamber is cleaned. This is where any crud (chips, sawdust, etc) that make it through the pickup screen can get lodged and cause excess leakage and reduced oil flow.So, taking it apart was easy, it also became a lot more easy to spin around, after moving the parts around.
I put it back in some Oregon mx14 - and I will try to clean it up real good tommorow.
This might actually work, if I can manage to put the pin back into place, and the pump hasn't taken some weird damage to it, so it doesn't work....
Awesome stuff!
Thanks!!![]()
I suspect oven cleaner (lye, sodium hydroxide) will cut it...although it'll also eat the aluminum...Hardened canola will test your patience, sets up like the hardest kind of glue and little if anything dissolves it quickly.
Holy Smokes, why so many? That many abusers, part easily gunks up, bad design?When you get that one done...wanna do a few more?View attachment 1192880
Holy Smokes, why so many? That many abusers, part easily gunks up, bad design?
Gotcha, MartDalb,I have seen many Stihl saws on my workbench, and only a handful of bad oilers.
Mostly the cheaper ones from ms170/180 and similar.
People run crap chain oil, bio oil (because they are told to use bio from the seller in many cases).
In this case, I litterally had to flush the oil tank with fuel and MX14 to get gunk etc out, even small bits of metal and spring came out of that tank.
In most cases, i'd say its a case of "user error".
Before you throw in the towel... try putting some bar oil in it for lube to see if it turns any better.The operation was a success, but the patient died.
So, putting it back together worked fine, but...
Even having it cleaned out, as much as possible, it simply won't roll over as it should.
It honestly feels like it could be damaged, bent or something similar.
The pump is clean now for sure.
I did not get off the brass end plug, that would not budge.
This has been a great learning experience, no matter the end result.
I will surely meet this issue again.
This one, I think, has internal damage or similar where something is bent ever so slightly.
As I mentioned the wormgear was damaged as well, it does take quite some force to break those, i'd think.
Thanks to all who showed up here and helped out!![]()
Before you throw in the towel... try putting some bar oil in it for lube to see if it turns any better.
After you have thrown in the towel... try some heat and a pair of sharp vice-grips to remove the brass plug. At least you can see what was in the pump!
Worst case...the pumps aren't that pricey
Where are you buying? New oil pump #1141 640 3200 is 55,5€, that's not too bad...I agree, but here in EU prices are a lot higher than in the US.
And for a used saw, this will cost me 1/2 of what I paid for the saw initially.
Seller was nice at first, but seems to have forgotten his promise to pay up, if it had any defect parts.....![]()
I have access to Stihl prices directly on site. So it is stihls listing price.Where are you buying? New oil pump #1141 640 3200 is 55,5€, that's not too bad...
yeah, I have just seen very few defective ones, especially like this one of mine.Stihl oil pump bodies are aluminum, the pump piston is steel. The pump body wears out but still pumps oil. They end up leaking when worn out casting oil mist all over the case side, clutch, drum etc. I stopped repairing them, I only replace with new unless it is NLA because they end up dripping or dusting the case half with oil.
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