Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?

[Stihl 041S]

My dad talked up the Weasel ,from the days he was in the army, they used them a lot in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies when training and during maneuvers, guess they will climb steep slopes with ease. Never seen one myself but got to mess about with a bren gun carrier more than I should have...LOL

They used them in the swampy areas of northern PA..
Worked well on snow to of course.
The Brens gun carriers I'll have to look up. My brother has a large library of military vehicle books.

 

[pioneerguy600]

They used them in the swampy areas of northern PA..
Worked well on snow to of course.
The Brens gun carriers I'll have to look up. My brother has a large library of military vehicle books.

The later made ones were called ,universal carriers as they were designed to carry troops and tow guns like the two pounders although they could pull 6 pounders and a full compliment of armed troops, 6 men plus the driver and gunner was about all the room they had if the 1/4" thick armour was kept in place. The flathead Ford could get them rolling along but the tracks were a bit of a nusiance...LOL

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Robin I have found the limits of my mitre saw... looking a new one. Thoughts? Models you like?

Cut was made locked at zero. The stops are sloppy....time to upgrade.

 

[Cantdog]

Yep......that's a violation....personally I have had very good luck with the three Hitachi sliders I own. I have two of the 10" belt drive versions and still use my gear drive old 9".....but that lives on the island. Everything is a compromise.....to gain versatility of cut with sliders you lose a tiny bit of accuracy due to simply more moving parts.....to gain more cutting capacity, as in a larger diameter blade, say 12", you will find you find you also gain blade deflection when the cutting gets tough like through knots or very in hard wood. So for what I do, I find a 10" compound slider fitted with a 10" heavy plate (7/64" kerf) 80 tooth Forrest Chopmaster works pretty good in the shop and it's brother is fitted with a 40 to 80 tooth Freud something or other is great for a lug around job saw.....however....for very precise cuts in hardwood like stair handrail sections I revert to my old blue Ryobi 10" straight chopsaw outfitted with an older Freud LU 85 blade....as odd as this may sound to some, this saw is far more accurate (when tuned properly) than any slider out there......bought it '85 with the LU85 that came with it for $225.....the blade alone retailed for $140 at the time....typically loud Jap motor and gear drive but though as nails and a very good cutter. However it has very limited capacity compared to a 10" compound slider. The thing I liked best about it was that it was light compared to the Porter Cable and Makita saws from the same era....which both used a cast iron table....the Ryobi got better results from an all aluminum frame and table with no rust to clean if it sat for awhile.
Generally I stay in the 10" size range as this size interchanges with all my other table saw blades plus there are just so many more types and thickness of blades available in the 10" size. I try to stay away from the thin kerf blades as again, they simply tend to deflect to easily in the cut for my uses.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Yep......that's a violation....personally I have had very good luck with the three Hitachi sliders I own. I have two of the 10" belt drive versions and still use my gear drive old 9".....but that lives on the island. Everything is a compromise.....to gain versatility of cut with sliders you lose a tiny bit of accuracy due to simply more moving parts.....to gain more cutting capacity, as in a larger diameter blade, say 12", you will find you find you also gain blade deflection when the cutting gets tough like through knots or very in hard wood. So for what I do, I find a 10" compound slider fitted with a 10" heavy plate (7/64" kerf) 80 tooth Forrest Chopmaster works pretty good in the shop and it's brother is fitted with a 40 to 80 tooth Freud something or other is great for a lug around job saw.....however....for very precise cuts in hardwood like stair handrail sections I revert to my old blue Ryobi 10" straight chopsaw outfitted with an older Freud LU 85 blade....as odd as this may sound to some, this saw is far more accurate (when tuned properly) than any slider out there......bought it '85 with the LU85 that came with it for $225.....the blade alone retailed for $140 at the time....typically loud Jap motor and gear drive but though as nails and a very good cutter. However it has very limited capacity compared to a 10" compound slider. The thing I liked best about it was that it was light compared to the Porter Cable and Makita saws from the same era....which both used a cast iron table....the Ryobi got better results from an all aluminum frame and table with no rust to clean if it sat for awhile.
Generally I stay in the 10" size range as this size interchanges with all my other table saw blades plus there are just so many more types and thickness of blades available in the 10" size. I try to stay away from the thin kerf blades as again, they simply tend to deflect to easily in the cut for my uses.

Been trying to read up on a bunch of saws. Lots of people raving about the bumble bees / DeWalt. I doubt they are junk...but a lot of hype too. Also internet reviews I take with a grain of salt....very few honest craftsmen would submit a review on a tool...they are...


Working.

 

[tbone75]

Bump to the top again !

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

If you don't mind spending money on a good tool the Bosch sliding 12" compound is the best out there. We build homes and alot of remodel work and have two of them. We have hitachi, dewalt, ryobi and milwaukee. The bosch seems to hold up the best and last forever. I have a old delta 12" at home that I picked up at a garage sale for 40.00. I would not trade it for any of the ones we use except for the bosch. Just my and the other 20 carpenter employees opinions...

 

[pioneerguy600]

We build new homes and do a bit of reno work and between us all we have 7 compound miter saws. Five of them are 10" and two of them are 12" plus I have a 10" and a 14" straight chop saw. The Bosch glide 12" gets the most use as the best of them but I am beginning to like my 12" Milwaukee better for some cuts and setups, especially big crown molding and the digital readout is a nice feature on the Milwaukee. The 10 Bosch slide has seen a lot of use and the Dewalt has also, all fairly accurate saws for trim work. My cast iron Delta chop is still the most accurate saw if a workpiece can be cut in a single chop but is limited to cross cuts of about 5.5" X 2.5" thick, the 14" Makita chop has done a good bit of oak crash railing in liquor stores and hospitals, decent miters in 6 -8" X 2.5" oak plank. Difficult to pick just one saw when one has access to a variety that suit certain tasks better, just like having more than one chainsaw.

 

[Cantdog]

We build new homes and do a bit of reno work and between us all we have 7 compound miter saws. Five of them are 10" and two of them are 12" plus I have a 10" and a 14" straight chop saw. The Bosch glide 12" gets the most use as the best of them but I am beginning to like my 12" Milwaukee better for some cuts and setups, especially big crown molding and the digital readout is a nice feature on the Milwaukee. The 10 Bosch slide has seen a lot of use and the Dewalt has also, all fairly accurate saws for trim work. My cast iron Delta chop is still the most accurate saw if a workpiece can be cut in a single chop but is limited to cross cuts of about 5.5" X 2.5" thick, the 14" Makita chop has done a good bit of oak crash railing in liquor stores and hospitals, decent miters in 6 -8" X 2.5" oak plank. Difficult to pick just one saw when one has access to a variety that suit certain tasks better, just like having more than one chainsaw.

Yep...the right tool for the job. Hand held circular saws are the same way.....that's why I have several ranging from 4 1/2" blades to 16" blades....each do basically the same thing but some are way better for certain tasks. Like you said...having more than one chainsaw......I do most of my saw work with a 49cc saw....if the work dictates I move up to a 61 to 68cc saw......then if the wood gets bigger I may have to drag out the 80, 90 or 110cc units......the 111s ain't much for limbing but it will tear hell out of a 36" oak butt in one pass!!!! Just like you probably won't grab the 16" Makita to do window trim but if you are working with 6 X 6's.... cutting them off nice and square in one pass is a definite plus....

 

[teacherman]

..... just like having more than one chainsaw.

Does anyone else relate to this?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Does anyone else relate to this?

Not on this forum.....LOL..

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Only one chainsaw? What is wrong with said person?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Would be a strange person, hey Jimmy?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Would be a strange person, hey Jimmy?

Hell I take two for trimming a Christmas tree...

 

[pioneerguy600]

I actually cut down a Christmas tree with a 090AV sporting a 4' bar, got plenty of looks....LOL

 

[pioneerguy600]

Too warm for cutting Christmas trees today, sun out bright and hitting 70`s here.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

6" bi-metal blade on my Milwaukee.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[dancan]

Shazzam !

If Robin could only learn how to run a flippycap ...

 

[pioneerguy600]

Must have been warm cutting today Dan, was hot enough here in the direct sun, luckily enough some of my work was inside and underneath where it was a bit cooler.

 

[dancan]

It was hot but I cut in the shade and worked towards the clearing .