Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?

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Yep is quiet.......been very busy.....Dave and I stripped my upper roof last week and had to replace a wee bit of trim that had rot going on. Dried it in with "Protecto Wrap HT" in preperation for the standing seam roofing guys to show up. Lot of work for two old fellas, two stories up!!
Mid week Dave needed me to cut up some blow downs across a road up in the woods that leads to a site where he is building a tiny house for a client. First tyme I started a gas saw since the new shouldder joint.. The old 61 conversion saw started right up third pull....hadn't been started for 7 months. There were six blown down spruces across the road.....6"-13-14" diameter....I blast through them in nothing flat and Dave manned the pulp hook and cleared away the rounds ......felt damn good to hear the saw run again and the shoulder gave not the slightest complaint.....really amazing....6 months out from total shoulder joint replacement at 68 years old and I'm up two stories stripping a roof and running a strong chainsaw as well !!!!!! Amazing what they can do.......I would have expected a much longer recovery tyme....
 
I was running my 066 on the Wed. after the big blow taking 38" diameter hemlock stems off my neighbors camp roof.. That one is my old flat top modified 066 that busts yer knuckles starting it. No worries about anyone else running it, the fifefighter that ownes the camp gave er a couple tugs on the recoil, put it right back down and started his 372 up and slashed away at a 24"pine laying across his deck. My logger friend Steve won`t run er either. LOL
 
No compression release, or bad timing? Pre-ignition?

I mostly don't use compression releases anyway, so I kinda doubt I would be intimidated by the difficulty pulling it. On the other hand, I'll generally pick the easiest work first, 'cause cutting up big wood is lots of work!
 
No compression release, or bad timing? Pre-ignition?

I mostly don't use compression releases anyway, so I kinda doubt I would be intimidated by the difficulty pulling it. On the other hand, I'll generally pick the easiest work first, 'cause cutting up big wood is lots of work!
No compression release and the module has lost its retard for startup function, I have broken 4 new Elastostart handles on it since building it back around 2008-9. It shows 210lbs comp on my compression gauge.
 
No compression release, or bad timing? Pre-ignition?

I mostly don't use compression releases anyway, so I kinda doubt I would be intimidated by the difficulty pulling it. On the other hand, I'll generally pick the easiest work first, 'cause cutting up big wood is lots of work!
I'm not very reliant on such devices either....come from a tyme of not yet invented chain brakes etc..
I've not run any of Jerry's modded saw except for one he sent to a menber in Mass. That was an 026 which was awesome.......good high rpm and cut speed for a 500 cc saw..
I'm guessing Jerry's saws have increased compression from squish reduction and port timing advances as well as physical port opening........he makes a good running saw......I meen even for a Stihl....of course if he would work in other saw directions might even have better results......of course this is the fight thread so I 'spect a come back from him!!!...LOL!!!!
 
I'm sure they will......quite a few sets.....I'll spread them around a bit....to size appropriate folks!!
The wrapped ones are the ones from the company we didn’t chose.
The unwrapped ones I “salvage”
They are from 20-95% useable………some guys get a new set every day……SAFETY!!lol
Many just throw them away!!! Don’t exchange……I wear a pair for months.
I’ll finish the other gloves……sorting ……and get a smaller box off.
I have no idea how many sets were in there.
The black coated ones are nice for a wet day…….for a while
 
I'm not very reliant on such devices either....come from a tyme of not yet invented chain brakes etc..
I've not run any of Jerry's modded saw except for one he sent to a menber in Mass. That was an 026 which was awesome.......good high rpm and cut speed for a 500 cc saw..
I'm guessing Jerry's saws have increased compression from squish reduction and port timing advances as well as physical port opening........he makes a good running saw......I meen even for a Stihl....of course if he would work in other saw directions might even have better results......of course this is the fight thread so I 'spect a come back from him!!!...LOL!!!!
I won`t argue about other saws being better with the same work I put into Stihl`s , it`s just that I have put all my time and efforts into porting Stihl saws and know what I can expect from them. I studied and ported all of the 0 series saws and a few of the MS series as well, with the 026 and 044 being my most favorite models that I use most often. My 046 and 046 hybrid are the next most used with the 066 and 660, 064 all set up and ready to go when the trees are over 36" dia, they run 36" bars with a 48" on the West Coast version 660. The 070 and 090`s don`t get used much as a 60" - 72" bar don`t get much duty round here.
 
Ported saws are a fad.
For many, yes, unless you run them for a reason like a commercial application, then ported saws not only make the job a bit faster but a lot more enjoyable for the operator, sometimes that alone translates into more wood cut and more dollars earned.
 
For many, yes, unless you run them for a reason like a commercial application, then ported saws not only make the job a bit faster but a lot more enjoyable for the operator, sometimes that alone translates into more wood cut and more dollars earned.
Meh........if you don't know...then you don't know......most pro sawyers don't go with ported saws because they reqire more understanding of the saw they use. In order to run an advanced/modded saw you have to be the govenor......not a diss on modern sawyers but most do not haved this intricate/ interaction with their saw rigs. Most sawyers are not open to modded saw because their dealers will not service modded saws...so....the bottom. line is......if you are going to run a modded saw....figure out how clever you are and go from there.
 
Meh........if you don't know...then you don't know......most pro sawyers don't go with ported saws because they reqire more understanding of the saw they use. In order to run an advanced/modded saw you have to be the govenor......not a diss on modern sawyers but most do not haved this intricate/ interaction with their saw rigs. Most sawyers are not open to modded saw because their dealers will not service modded saws...so....the bottom. line is......if you are going to run a modded saw....figure out how clever you are and go from there.
True,all of that. As the operator of a modded saw you must become the mechanic and know what the saw wants/needs at all times while running.Temps. , humidity and air pressure all affect what the engine needs to run efficiently at any given time, hence the tuning screwdriver in my pocket at all times when cutting.
 
My saw rarely needs any of the adjustment screws bothered except the chain at certain times. But if i need a ported saw to cut firewood then i will burn coal.
My Ole Pioneers need a tweak from time to time especially the P-51 , also my 357xp which is woods ported & peaky & the ole Dolmar 116 si which has always been touchy . My newer saws not so much , however always have clean air filters & carb driver in my vest pocket just in case . Every one is different , I have run numerous stock saws for firewood requirements , but recognize the benefits of a light responsive saw for limbing & felling in the cut . I would never turn down a well built woods ported saw . My new 7900prz2 will eventually be ported . Likely one of my last lol. ;)
 

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