Synthetic oil, more power?

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Someone may have already mentioned this, but it's quite easy. Gasoline is just dino oil that is more refined, so the dino oil and the gasoline burn at the same temperature, just not at the same rate. What this translates to is that with the dino oil mix, most of the lubricating oil is burned on the top side of the piston leaving less for lubrication on the upstroke. This is proven because you will see more smoke with dino oil.

Having said that, when using synthetics that are burned slower and at a much higher temperature than dino oil, during combustion MOST of the synthetic oil is left for lubrication on the upstroke thereby giving a slight decrease in friction. Technically there is also less carbon buildup on the cylinder walls for the rings to have to "wipe", causing less wear.

Not to mention that the oil breaks down slower while in the crankcase. That's another plus in itself.

I hope this makes any sense.
 
What I do not like about using synthetic oil mix, is that the engine runs
too cool, and ice buildup in the exhaust port can damage the piston.......................................................................

LOL.......:clap:
 
Someone may have already mentioned this, but it's quite easy. Gasoline is just dino oil that is more refined, so the dino oil and the gasoline burn at the same temperature, just not at the same rate. What this translates to is that with the dino oil mix, most of the lubricating oil is burned on the top side of the piston leaving less for lubrication on the upstroke. This is proven because you will see more smoke with dino oil.


N
Nothing said above is true. Yes, dino oil and gasoline are both made from crude oil, but so is paraffin wax, bunker fuel and acetone. All of which have radically different flame temps, burn rates, BTU's etc.
The increased smoke you see with dino is a product of the bright stock used as a anti scuff additive not combusting completely or a improperly tuned motor.

Having said that, when using synthetics that are burned slower and at a much higher temperature than dino oil, during combustion MOST of the synthetic oil is left for lubrication on the upstroke thereby giving a slight decrease in friction. Technically there is also less carbon buildup on the cylinder walls for the rings to have to "wipe", causing less wear.
Again none of the above is true....
I hope this makes any sense.
It doesnt, because its not true!
 
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Nothing said above is true. Yes, dino oil and gasoline are both made from crude oil, but so is paraffin wax, bunker fuel and acetone. All of which have radically different flame temps, burn rates, BTU's etc.
The increased smoke you see with dino is a product of the bright stock used as a anti scuff additive not combusting completely or a improperly tuned motor.


Again none of the above is true....

It doesn't, because its not true!

+1. There is less smoke because of the ash content of the oil. It' still oil just processed differently
 
+1. There is less smoke because of the ash content of the oil. It' still oil just processed differently
The ash content of a oil refers to the amount of metallic additives in the blend. The test for this involves reacting sulfuric acid with a sample of the oil and the resulting ash is measured and expressed as a percentage of the total sample.
Ash really has nothing to do with how clean burning the base oil is or isnt.
 
The ash content of a oil refers to the amount of metallic additives in the blend. The test for this involves reacting sulfuric acid with a sample of the oil and the resulting ash is measured and expressed as a percentage of the total sample.
Ash really has nothing to do with how clean burning the base oil is or isnt.

Thanks bwalker...........now I guess we're all wrong. lol
 
The new diesels with dpf's call for a low ash oil...........and for good reason.

Have seen one '07 Duramax with a clogged dpf with just 2,000 miles on it. All from using the wrong oil.
 
I feel like we should go back to the whole "Lets put Teflon into our additives because it works for so many other things" argument. Why don't they do it anymore? Cause it was a waste of money! Some of the best additives made have none of that stuff in them. :chainsaw:
 
Has anyone noticed if a new saw takes longer to break in when using synthic oil.I now in new cars it's not good to run it,because the parts don't breakin properly.Iv'e also been told it's not good for rollerbearings,like rollerrockers as it's too slippery and causes flat spots on the rollers.Instead of rolling,they slide.Any thoughts on that.

Old wives tale!
 
Good for a DPF, but bad for the motor. Less detergents and less anti wear additives.

According to some GM literature the new 'approved' oils are better in every way.

I personally can't say how or why though.
 
This topic has been extensivly discussed on all of the diesel truck sites, where a lot of people add 2 stroke mix to low sulpher fuel as an injector pump lube. The upshot there is that Synthetics don't burn at combustion temps and pressures of a diesel engine ( about 3X 2 stroke compression ) therefore less carbon, but more buld up of unburned oil. That is the reason there is less smoke.
It was generaly felt that Syn was not a good choice, due to the buildup, but I doubt that would be as much of an issue with a simple 2 stroke engine.
Unles of course, I'm wrong.
 
[QUOTE every major engine manufacture recommends synthetic oil during brake in.


Racing engine manufactures don't
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be wrong also... ;)

but...

Every engine I pull down that's been run excuslively (or lately) on synthetic mix oil is nicely coated with "sticky" lubricant.... and has little to no carbon except on the top of the piston.

Non-synthetic mix engines look "dry" in comparision.
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be wrong also... ;)

but...

Every engine I pull down that's been run excuslively (or lately) on synthetic mix oil is nicely coated with "sticky" lubricant.... and has little to no carbon except on the top of the piston.

Non-synthetic mix engines look "dry" in comparision.


Your right!! I had to put a new piston in my sled and when I pulled the jugs off everything was wet and very slippery and that was after sitting for a week(it runs at 50:1). That engine has 100% synthetic out of the Cat factory. As I rebuilt it I made sure everything had a good coating, man did that smoke on first startup. :dizzy:
 
I'm pretty sure I'll be wrong also... ;)

but...

Every engine I pull down that's been run excuslively (or lately) on synthetic mix oil is nicely coated with "sticky" lubricant.... and has little to no carbon except on the top of the piston.

Non-synthetic mix engines look "dry" in comparision.

Wrong?? I don't think so.:cheers: :cheers: I'll never go back to dino oil, everything runs cleaner and smells better with synthetics.:cheers:

BTW Why did I get into another oil thread? lol.:cheers:
 
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For what it's worth, a few years back I met "Dr. John" Wittener of Moto Guzzi racing fame - he took several national championships in endurance racing away from the much more richly endowed Japanese factory sponsored teams. His secret was not to go as fast as they did, but to just keep going round the track long after the other guys had broke down or crashed...

He was a big advocate of Mobil 1, and said that it was the biggest power boost for the money you could get for a Guzzi engine, claimed that in his mostly box-stock race bike engines it was good for 4 HP over dino-oil, and that he had the dyno runs to prove it...

Gooserider
 
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