the all aussie dribble thread!
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huntingrob
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks Neil, yeah there's obviously a lot more to it than I realised. Same as any sort of racing I guess, it's the little things that happen behind the scenes that make the difference and they can only be learned by experience. [emoji2]
TEZZA
ArboristSite Operative
More crackup
I see your potatoes and raise you 140 acres of the *******sUploaded live as we speak.
Potatoes all day. I'll be seeing them in my sleep dammit. I've looked at over 3000 acres of potatoes in the last two days. All sprayed off and ready for harvest. Exciting stuff. Not.
Do yourselves a favour and watch this snippet of a doco on potato lol
postrip
ArboristSite Operative
I find free hand to be the best Rob.
In my shed with a butchered customers chain, occasionally I'll use a guide if it's really bad to bring the cutter back into line.
I have always used a depth gauge 4 accuracy on my rakers until recently, now 4 racing , I'm learning to go "by feel"
What works for some, don't work 4 others!
Matching chain 2 timber 2 operator is an art in itself....1 that is not documented, except in the minds of certain racing individuals on this thread
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I find free hand to be the best Rob.
In my shed with a butchered customers chain, occasionally I'll use a guide if it's really bad to bring the cutter back into line.
I have always used a depth gauge 4 accuracy on my rakers until recently, now 4 racing , I'm learning to go "by feel"
What works for some, don't work 4 others!
Matching chain 2 timber 2 operator is an art in itself....1 that is not documented, except in the minds of certain racing individuals on this thread
Actually mate the real chain and racing guru got banned and a lot of expertise went with him.
Sad day.
Dad day indeed.
huntingrob
ArboristSite Guru
Ha ha. Thanks jase. I have toyed with free handing my chains with various success but I don't do it anywhere near enough to get any good at it. I just stick with the husky guide these days. Got a lot of respect for blokes who can do it properly.I find free hand to be the best Rob.
In my shed with a butchered customers chain, occasionally I'll use a guide if it's really bad to bring the cutter back into line.
I have always used a depth gauge 4 accuracy on my rakers until recently, now 4 racing , I'm learning to go "by feel"
What works for some, don't work 4 others!
Matching chain 2 timber 2 operator is an art in itself....1 that is not documented, except in the minds of certain racing individuals on this thread
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
I try my best to use the right sized file when I sharpen my chains (I've stuffed that up more than once that I can remember)....I use a 30 degree guide and I use the depth gauge for the rakers but tend to go a bit deeper so the chain pulls into the cut nicely without too much load...
I never use those fast Dremel looking things ever and will not get a Stihl dealer to do it as I do it for free.....
Spent too much time filing drive links recently from jumping the chain off the rim sprocket but no issues for the past couple of weeks.....keeping on top of chain tension every tank of gas works wonders on a long bar
I never use those fast Dremel looking things ever and will not get a Stihl dealer to do it as I do it for free.....
Spent too much time filing drive links recently from jumping the chain off the rim sprocket but no issues for the past couple of weeks.....keeping on top of chain tension every tank of gas works wonders on a long bar
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
I reckon I've tried every known chain sharpening device.
Everyone who taught me had the belief that nothing cut as well as a new chain. Once I cottoned onto the idea that perhaps they didn't know **** from clay about a sharp chain I figured I had to teach myself.
The best thing I did was buy an fg2. The stihl bench mount guide. That was the only way I could teach myself what "right" felt like. I could freehand during the day and square it back up and check my accuracy at night.
I'm not even going to begin to think I'm anything more than a capable sharpener of work chains, but it's a hell of a lot better than where I was a few years ago.
The chains the guys I employ just get hit with the grinder. They can't get them sharper than that, and some nights I reckon they are 10 degrees out. I'm not fixing that crap with a file every day.
Everyone who taught me had the belief that nothing cut as well as a new chain. Once I cottoned onto the idea that perhaps they didn't know **** from clay about a sharp chain I figured I had to teach myself.
The best thing I did was buy an fg2. The stihl bench mount guide. That was the only way I could teach myself what "right" felt like. I could freehand during the day and square it back up and check my accuracy at night.
I'm not even going to begin to think I'm anything more than a capable sharpener of work chains, but it's a hell of a lot better than where I was a few years ago.
The chains the guys I employ just get hit with the grinder. They can't get them sharper than that, and some nights I reckon they are 10 degrees out. I'm not fixing that crap with a file every day.
What sort of money does the fg2 cost?
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
Read back a few pages. Benny posted up a price ex Melbourne and said they are still available.....from memory was around the 250 mark
www.oakleighmowerpower.com.au/spares-parts/.../stihl-fg2.../108-807
weedkilla
Ain't no guru of nuthin'
Less than porting. That's about the only way you can justify it.
rogue661
ArboristSite Operative
That thing rips! I don't mind If you put a file to my chain! ..You definitely don't follow factory specks when you hand file, more like match the chain to the powerhead and get er done!....
rogue661
ArboristSite Operative
Personally I use the American way and only take my chain off and put a new chain on after a solid day or two cutting! keeping a close eye on the chips and knowing thanks to AS when I see dust it's time to put a new chain on! haha....
just a round file jammed in old rake handle no guide same with flat file for rakers just using my eye or somthing with straight edge, this keeps it simple don't tax the brain too much more often works just fine if well versed...time wise i teach that one good led zepplin or deep purple tune and a medium bar saw should be done good to go,,, its sorting sharpening out in the field when no vice or bench at hand so the ute tail gate makes a very handy saw steady.
smak down
things you find in the wood pile,, the face of mr log
Dave27483
Enthusiasts of the chainsaw
That is one gruby saw.
WidowMaker_1
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yeah no muching around mate, we opportunistic redneck farmers know a thing or two, lol. Hows the saw milling going mate? busy i presume ...
rogue661
ArboristSite Operative
Is an old pic and yeah is only an old 066 work saw, it had at the time of the pic a crapped out air filter (may still have I better take a look) but is still running strong today....Stihl technicians must luv the guys bringing new saw's in saying look at the fines getting past the filter OMG! its going to blow up! lol.. Myself can't say I've owned a saw that I have rubbed my finger in the intake and not have fine sawdust show up? care factor zero for me no biggie only ever seen one saw with self induced fine packed sawdust crank stuffers was an old 076 with lots of hrs on it still run fine with not a clue as to what was going on in the inside...
But yeah don't seem to worry em fine sawdust that is in my personal experience but I don't think dirt would be very good?...I've got a few polished clean saw's at home to look at and run on my birthday but work saw's I give em a hit with air here and there and as long as they work and cut as they should is all good.... Yeah I know should be ashamed of myself
....
