the all aussie dribble thread!

[splitpost]

Which engine in that old girl,,, v8 chrisler. I learned to drive on AB160 inters then onto a 690 Dodge, that was a good truck for delivering sawn timber, heaps of balls and it had the 5 speed box with the 2 speed diff (all the modern good gear).
How much small trucks have changed, those old girls like your dodge would drive up a gum tree if it could get traction.

Nah this old girls bog stock 245ci petrol,4speed and single speed diff

I saw my old green field ride on mower today at the farm, poor thing, I stoped using it after the oil consumed become greater than petrol used.

Possible engine transplant could be from my stock......
2 victor 160cc big boys.
1 red 202 with 4 speed gearbox.
1 going 6 /10 makullock.


advise needed before this project starts.

if they're your only choices i'd just rebuild the original motor ,ported and big cam of course:msp_biggrin:

 

[splitpost]

Checking out the Ducks orchid house today and found the poles are full of termites
Whats the best thing to get to get rid off them
Now I have to replace most of the post and rails
THE LITTLE BAS<<<DS
Regards Peter

remove old poles,burn,put new poles in ground and pour 20liters of sump oil in the hole before backfilling,paint the rest of the post as well or just use cypress logs

 

[peter92]

remove old poles,burn,put new poles in ground and pour 20liters of sump oil in the hole before backfilling,paint the rest of the post as well or just use cypress logs

Hi, thanks for the info
I did that 4yrs ago and didn't stop them,
I put iron bark in the ground as poles
Regards Peter

 

[husq2100]

are steel post an option?

Timber in the ground is never a long term solution. Gypress will be somewhat termite prone due to the natural toxins, but then it rots. Any timber will rot eventually, even ironbark and even gidgy. If your buget permits, make up some small steel post/brackets and concrete them in, you can still use timber posts from here up, its just means the bottoms can be mad to be 4 inches or so above ground level. Helps avoid rot and termites. They hate day light and the prefer some moisture. You can use simple flat plate to make up very good post brackets. I have used these on 12x12 square ironbark and on big round telegraph poles for pole homes. Keep an eye out for decent flat plate in the 8mm to 12mm range 150mm wide or up.

here is an example:

 

[peter92]

Need to stick with the rustic look so I didn't think of the plates
What about using hoop pine, ive heard they wont touch that
Regards Peter

 

[peter92]

Need to stick with the rustic look so I didn't think of the plates
What about using hoop pine, ive heard they wont touch that
Regards Peter

Now ive got the nest there, what the best thing to use to get rid of them

 

[Aussie Dave]

Now ive got the nest there, what the best thing to use to get rid of them

There are different bait stations available and they do attract them,but if that really buggers the nest im not sure.Diazinon powder will kill them but a little to fast for them to get there covered bodies back to the nest from my experience :msp_unsure:

Matt may no,not sure if that is in his field.

 

[MCW]

A bit of termite info for those interested...

Out of all the current chemicals Bifenthrin works the best for home use - it is cheap, easily available, and relatively safe. It also works awesome on spiders, millipedes, European Earwigs around the house and sheds. In the old days you'd have laced the posts/soil with any of the now banned organochlorines and you'd be fine for 40 years or more (DDT, Lindane, Heptachlor, Dieldrin, Aldrin etc etc).
Bifenthrin will give you 10-15 years protection. Another good one but very costly at around $300/L is Fipronil (Regent 200SC etc). These two are the main ones used by pest controllers. Most anti cholinesterase chemistry will work on termites.
Also don't get sucked in by the new fangled termite "bait" stations. Termites are forage feeders meaning they don't actually "sniff" out timber, they simply bump into it, yell out to their mates, and bingo dinners on. Because they are forage feeders they can actually slip between the gaps in bait stations and shazzam, they're in your house and you don't even know because you think you're protected. If they have a food source (ie: your house) they have no real incentive to cast the net and forage wider, meaning those bait stations will remain untouched while your house gets chewed down. Bait stations certainly have a place, but pest controllers push them because they then lock customers into expensive annual contracts, and it is guaranteed to bring in a set future income for that particular business.
The specific Insect Growth Regulators (IGR's) used in these bait stations are generally kept pretty quiet - even chemical companies that I deal with at work keep things to themselves as they have different divisions in their company. For example Dow have their agricultural sector and their bait stations are sold via another section of the company. The main reason is that the same "exclusive to pest controllers" IGR's are also found in some grain treatments available to farmers for weevils etc. This is why most of the online information related to termite bait stations does not mention the specific active ingredient. Therefore with enough homework you can potentially make your own bait stations if you were that way inclined and smart enough to get the dosage right. For example "Raxil T" from Bayer that is used to treat grain in silos etc contains Triflumuron which is the exact same IGR used in some termite bait stations. The same active that if you asked your local, friendly pest controller about, will be greeted with an answer along the lines of "Nobody else can get it". Heh heh. Fact is that I bet none of them even know what Triflumuron is.
I've had a lot to do with entomology over the last 20 years and the way pests feed and the effect certain insecticides have on pests is something I find very interesting.

The one thing when treating with Bifenthrin (what I recommend as it has relatively low mammalian toxicity when dry) is to make sure you get good coverage, and make sure it injected deep enough (or covered over with dirt) to avoid UV light. UV light is what lowers the half life of basically all insecticides. For example Chlorpyrifos will provide a lethal dose to insects in the open for maybe 10-14 days. Out of UV light it will remain potent for up to 20 years. If you have a good way of injecting or spraying chemical then there is basically nothing a pest controller can do that you can't do yourself. I just treated a pile of around 6 tonne of cut green Mallee this afternoon with Bifenthrin as it will take a year before it is ready to split and burn and my place is termite central. We have 3 species around my place.

Anyway, my head hurts - it could be from the Bifenthrin solvents...

remove old poles,burn,put new poles in ground and pour 20liters of sump oil in the hole before backfilling,paint the rest of the post as well or just use cypress logs

That works too and helps stop rot to some extent.

are steel post an option?

Timber in the ground is never a long term solution. Gypress will be somewhat termite prone due to the natural toxins, but then it rots. Any timber will rot eventually, even ironbark and even gidgy. If your buget permits, make up some small steel post/brackets and concrete them in, you can still use timber posts from here up, its just means the bottoms can be mad to be 4 inches or so above ground level. Helps avoid rot and termites. They hate day light and the prefer some moisture. You can use simple flat plate to make up very good post brackets. I have used these on 12x12 square ironbark and on big round telegraph poles for pole homes. Keep an eye out for decent flat plate in the 8mm to 12mm range 150mm wide or up.

Sadly Serge your idea is the only one that I can guarantee WILL work Termites are cagey little bastards...

 

[MCW]

Matt may no,not sure if that is in his field.

Beat me to it Diazinon kills stuff dead but only for a limited time. It has a relatively short half life compared to other chemistries which isn't ideal when dealing with termites.

There are two ways to bowl them over. Either direct contact chemistry such as the synthetic pyrethroids (Bifenthrin, Deltamethrin etc) or organophosphates (Chlorpyrifos etc) which acts more like a boundary fence or chemistry such as Fipronil and the IGR's which they can take back to the nest and take the queen etc out. Fipronil is awesome but it takes a lot of work to get the dosage right so they DO make it back to the nest without croaking it beforehand.

EDIT: Oh I also forgot that it is wise to add a soil penetrant/surfactant when injecting or spraying termite chemistry as it will help penetration into the soil and also aid in lateral spread. If you are injecting a boundary protectant do so at 30cm intervals. I've drilled holes all around our house through the slab at 30cm intervals and inject Bifenthrin through there.

 

[deepsouth]

$750 firewood saw - What to get, suggestions please

This slipped through.....

Some questions :

1. What size and type of wood are you cutting?
2. New or good used saw ?
3. Must it be Aus stock or happy to import from USA?
4. Any brand preference?

Some comments :

New in Aus you won't get a larger capacity saw for those dollars new.

From USA prior to the dollars dive, you could have bought a Powerhead for $600, allowed $150 for freight and then just needed a Bar and chain locally.

And $600 would get a nice 70cc Husky or similar that was rebuilt.

I'm sure someone else here might have some comments.

 

[Aussie Dave]

So Matt,are you saying the Permethrin and Lucijet i have in the shead are banned

 

[ausneil 1]

I saw a photo of this supposed twin 3120. You obviously didn't have Photoshop back in the day to hide the electrical tape and bailing twine holding them together.

That was below the belt Matt,,, I will have you know that they were indeed held together via a pre assembled cage fastening the motors by genuine Husqvarna screws and loc-tite. The cage's welds may of been a bit ''bird sh#tty'' (as Keith Polsen informed me after purchase) but I am not a welder joc, just trained by dad and learned a bit along the way.

At least I could run it and win races in any company then sell it when I finished with it to give another competitor joy from it and he too won races with it in any company.


I think I will leave the green field in the too hard basket....

 

[MCW]

So Matt,are you saying the Permethrin and Lucijet i have in the shead are banned

Permethrin is still fine, Lucijet is well...um...do you want to sell it

I should have mentioned above that synthetic pyrethroids have low mammalian toxicity except for cats. It will bowl them arse over head. I forgot to mention that though as I hate cats

 

[MCW]

That was below the belt Matt,,, I will have you know that they were indeed held together via a pre assembled cage fastening the motors by genuine Husqvarna screws and loc-tite. The cage's welds may of been a bit ''bird sh#tty'' (as Keith Polsen informed me after purchase) but I am not a welder joc, just trained by dad and learned a bit along the way.

Well Neil the fact is that it at least ran

 

[ausneil 1]

Nah this old girls bog stock 245ci petrol,4speed and single speed diff



if they're your only choices i'd just rebuild the original motor ,ported and big cam of course:msp_biggrin:

Chris,,, was that 245ci the slant 6 or the hemi, I seem to remember the hemi was 265 and the v8 was 318.

the green field,,, yea rebuild the old donk, except I know nothing about 4 strokes, I think it has an 8hp baby on it too.

Well Neil the fact is that it at least ran

thank you, and yes it did indeed do that and it as unique.
shame it would not beat the saw it was built to beat, Con Wassinks YZ250 bikesaw, built by John Stadler (USA), that was awesome in 20inch single cut and the twin would not blow wind up that bike saws bum, but Con would not do 3 cuts with it so I could run the twin in speed events and be confident.

 

[ausneil 1]

Nobody outside racing and outside Oz gives a ####.

Frankly, I'm too busy trying to marry my 6 pioneers and Canadiens together so I can mount them on my tractor FEL and ring a log into firewood length 6 or 7 rings at a time. after I get 'em all working though. Now THAT would be a good project - but I'd do it once, pass out from the 20:1 mixture fumes after a few logs, and last seen rolling down the hill cutting a 1.5m swath of rings through the bush until my lil' red indian rooster bottoms out in a stream.

I reckon Bob would be hard pressed to beat that story when real life creates it. stay tunes for the pics folks...

Rep Sent.

 

[Aussie Dave]

Lucijet is well...um...do you want to sell it


Funny you should say that.I didnt realise it was even here untill a few years ago when i was having a long overdue cleanup of an old barn before burning it down.Found three old glass bottles (around two litre size) with unreadable labels,i worked out what is was pretty quick with one sniff.Had every farmer in the district wanting some when the word got out.Wouldnt have a guess how old it is but it still works

 

[MCW]

Chris,,, was that 245ci the slant 6 or the hemi, I seem to remember the hemi was 265 and the v8 was 318

The 225 was the slant Neil. The 245 and 265 were Hemis.

Funny you should say that.I didnt realise it was even here untill a few years ago when i was having a long overdue cleanup of an old barn before burning it down.Found three old glass bottles (around two litre size) with unreadable labels,i worked out what is was pretty quick with one sniff.Had every farmer in the district wanting some when the word got out.Wouldnt have a guess how old it is but it still works

You sniffed it and lived?
Station owners used to tip some into their water throughs then come back the next day with a front end loader and cart off all the dead emus, crows, donkeys, camels etc etc. Actually whatever the hell drank it. This is why it got banned. Farmers were also lacing dead carcasses to take out Wedge Tailed Eagles.

 

[Aussie Dave]

The 225 was the slant Neil. The 245 and 265 were Hemis.



You sniffed it and lived?

Yeah just :msp_scared: The old blokes stories of blokes getting covered in the stuff when using it is scary :msp_sad:

 

[MCW]

The old blokes stories of blokes getting covered in the stuff when using it is scary :msp_sad:

Yeah I know. We had a ripper that was used in horticultural tree crops called Parathion Methyl. Guys would spray citrus trees with it and you'd find adult birds sitting stone dead on their nests. They wouldn't even have time to move or fly off. Some of that older chemistry was pretty impressive I must say but pretty bloody dangerous too.
We should have had a whole generation of farmers wiped out in hindsight