The best chain for the application?

[woojr]

Hi Bill, thanks for the insight. I recently picked up a Stihl 460 that I am currently using a Stihl 24 inch chisel chain and I am having no problems around the sprocket area. However I am having some binding in the bar groove. Cleaning it out very often but it seems like it could use more oil than the saw can pump. I would like to try the skip tooth. I am definitely a Stihl chain fan. Just started using it and after Windsor, Oregon, Carlton, and others I haven't found any that doesn't stretch or has as hard a tooth. Will be cutting tomorrow (white oak). Making chunks for firewood. This tree should give me next winter's Jan and Feb. Take care, John

 

[Diesel JD]

Anybody every try Lucas type double full skip ripping chain? I haven't seen it in teh latest catalogues but Baileys was offering this with the Lucas mill and by itself for a long time.
J.D.

 

[skwerl]

woojr, lots of users find the Stihl oilers inadequate. Someone not familiar with the tendancy might accuse you of running dull chain but I know it isn't that. Stihl has even reduced the sizes of the oil tanks as they reduced oil output.

Can't help you with modifying the oilers but I can tell you that the Husky 372 puts out plenty of oil.

 

[wrhackett]

Woojr- are you sure your chain tension is proper? The only times I have had problems with binding in the bar groove were when my chain was too loose during ripping cuts. This also contributes to your lack of oil problem, because the wood in the bar groove soaks up a lot of oil and inhibits its flow down the groove (again, the voice of experience).

 

[woojr]

thanks for the info men. the chain tension is what I consider right on.. turns freely and after warming up there's no clearance between bottom of links and the bar rails. The chain was new.
I think a contributing factor was the nature of the wood and some rotted pockets inside the tree. Had another weird experience with this tree. There were allot of large branches off much of the length of this trunk of 30-40 feet. When I was cross cutting (about 1/2 way into) just past a large limb area, the kerf twisted and I had to wedge it open. Never had a portion of the cut react like that. ALso when ripping across the grain it kicks out a pretty fine dust even with a very sharp edge. It seems to clog the oil flow pretty fast. I think the secret is my technique. I am going back there today to do the same kind of cutting. I am going to use a "pulsing pressure" on the bar and let it clean itself every few inches until I can figure what's the best system.
As far as 372xp... I have thought hard about both saws and actually just decided to try the 460 first. I have a 272 that needs a cylinder that I plan to try a little porting. I'm going to my eye out for a ebay bargain this summer. Besides, those 460's seem to hold their value. I do think the air cleaner doesn't get dirty as fast with the Huskies I've had. woojr

 

[tonka]

I had the same problem when cutting some very big logs in half or quarters to make them more managable in the splitter. Never had them bind the saw up but every once in awhile had to let up to let the slivers clear. Found that if you bar is long enough, hold the saw back off the dogs a couple of inches. Gives more room to get rid of them. Or if you have alot to do, put a skip chain on. Works real well. Gives more chip clearance and more time to clear.

 

[woojr]

I'm gonna have to get a skip chain anyway... want to try it. I have a 36"
3/8, 063 bar for this saw. I've also wondered about 404 chains and how they might be a better application. I haven't used one in 20 some years on an old 153 Dolmar. I don't have any recollection of the service. woojr

 

[SawTroll]

It may help to use a longer bar, and leave some room between the wood and the front of the saw while cutting.
Also, it will help to cut at a slight angle all the way trough the wood.

Here is an attempt to illustrate what I said: