Paul Bunion
ArboristSite Operative
Didn't you know that sour grapes are bad for you?Alright Troll....Time to ditch the alias! :notrolls2:
Didn't you know that sour grapes are bad for you?Alright Troll....Time to ditch the alias! :notrolls2:
Didn't you know that sour grapes are bad for you?
That is an informed decition that I approve of - but I hope you don't state that 3/8" is better than .325 on a 50cc saw because of it - that would not be fair!
There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models - that info is missing here, as I remember it.I think that the very first post in this thread shows that your statement would be true for a 346, but not for a 5100. I think 5100 has the torque to run the 3/8 better than the .325. opcorn:
There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models.
I think that the very first post in this thread shows that your statement would be true for a 346, but not for a 5100. I think 5100 has the torque to run the 3/8 better than the .325. opcorn:
There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models - that info is missing here, as I remember it.
If the .325 rims are 7 or 8-pin also is important info, that is left out (both options really should have been tested).......
Troll, that's exactly why I went with 3/8 on mine. Good .325 chains are hard to come by around here, and 3/8 is easy, so that's the direction I went. A lot of the saw shops/hardware stores don't want to sell "yellow" chain to John Q Homeowner, so they only stock the good stuff in 3/8 for the "pros".
I figured it would take a little while to answer with all the commotion going on in the other thread.
I just believe that the two saws have different torque curves and they pull better with the respective chains. The bars and chains were the same on all the saws in the time trials we ran. It also shows the difference to be pretty small and really not worth a whole lot in deciding which chain to put on the saw. More of a personal preference and not a performance edge.
Here we go again.
Here we go again.
Power to weight for limbing .......Id go MS211......
Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw!
The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! opcorn:
If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......
Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw!
The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! opcorn:
If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......
Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw!
The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! opcorn:
If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......
Checked out the difference with some Canyon Oak I was holding out on. 3/8 felt so much better in the cut. It felt smooth and in dense hardwood to boot. Go figure.
I've seen the light:greenchainsaw:
16" 325 v 18" 3/8 both 7 pin
I was pushing on some and letting the saw do it's thing on others.
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