The made in north america Old Magnesium Swap Meet.

[leeha]

You might have the wrong gasket between the
carb and tank blocking the pulse hole. These saws
draw the fuel from the bottom of the tank with
the big wick filter if i'm correct. The fuel line to the
carb can get kinked. I have also seen the carb needle
stick in the seat so no fuel to the main metering diaphram.



Lee

 

[bplust]

I think it was the needle sticking in the seat. I don't know why it happened now, because that's never happened; I've pulled this carb apart about a dozen times now! :bang:

But this time, I pulled it apart, and the main diaphragm was dry.

Well, we're pulling fuel now, but we're at very high RPM's. Not really racing up and down, but high RPM's, no matter how far I turn the L needle out. Makes me think air leak; I even set the metering lever a bit high. I leak tested it once and thought it was good, but I guess I'll have another go at it.

Sorry to hijack the thread a bit!

Does anyone have the rear engine shoud/spark plug cover plate?

Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[bplust]

And man, pulling the carb on this saw sucks. If you're not familiar, the fuel line out of the tank is at the bottom, so if you pull the carb, all fuel must be drained prior from the saw, or gravity will do what it does best...

 

[bplust]

Looking for points and an air filter cover for a McCulloch S-44.

Have some stuff to trade, or $$$, let me know what you're looking for, and I might have it.

Thanks, Bryan

 

[Eccentric]

Ok, so i got the C51 from cliff today to aid in the reconstruction of the C7. couple questions

1. Will the carb from the C51 work on the C7? part number is the same except for the ending letter. B on the C7 carb, and C on the C51 carb.

2. Which pull start mech. have you found more reliable? one way bearing or metal Pawls?

3. how do you measure out to make your 16:1 mix?

There are TWO , one above and one below the dog cross.

You can shim the coil spring with an extra thin washer for more pressure if you have the room.

I found a lawnmower parts website that carries the fiber washers at about 2.50 each. But, they charge 8+ for the postage. What a bunch of poo-poo.

The FM style starter is the more reliable of the two. Carl is right on regarding the parts that MUST be there for it to work. You also have to give it a quick jerk to seat the dogs, then pull to start the saw. Different technique than 'normal' starter setups. Also, DO NOT pull the rope out at shutdown time like you'd do with a starter setup where the pawls are attached to the flywheel (such as on old Macs, XP1020/1050 Homelites, XL series Homelites, etc) as you'll damage the starter cup and dogs. I use 32/1 mix in these saws. 40/1 and even 50/1 is fine with modern synthetic oils. The carb from the C-51 will work just fine on the C-7. They're basically the same.

I have a McCulloch 1-72, I cannot get it to run. 150psi compression, exceptional spark (I cleaned and regapped, and set the coil gap too), carb kit and factory tuning, no air leaks. Starts on prime every time, but will never pull fuel. Maybe I need a carburetor? I dunno, but if anyone has a Tillotson HL that'll fit this saw, lemme know, and I might just jump on it.

Keep in mind that this style throttle linkage HOLDS BACK the throttle shaft in idle position, and when you depress the trigger, it brings the throttle linkage forward and a spring on the throttle shaft rotates the shaft, opening the plate, as far as the throttle linkage will let it open.

Thanks,

Bryan

Bryan the HL19 series carbs are what work best in this application. An HL63 will work too if you cut the upper threaded portion of the AF stud off the HL63 (or replace the stud with a short bolt of the right size and pitch to plug the hole in the carb body. The stud isn't needed with the top-tank Macs because they have a stand-alone AF nut bracket (and the stud may interfere with that bracket). I suggest you modify your throttle link to possitively engage the throttle arm of the replacement carb by putting a Z bend in the end. HL throttle arms can also be switched between carbs. They're held on by a little screw (unlike the arms on the flatbacks, which are swedged onto the shaft). An arm from almost any HL will work. I've used arms from Homelite HL's in the past. If you need a throttle arm I'll mail you one.

You might have the wrong gasket between the
carb and tank blocking the pulse hole. These saws
draw the fuel from the bottom of the tank with
the big wick filter if i'm correct. The fuel line to the
carb can get kinked. I have also seen the carb needle
stick in the seat so no fuel to the main metering diaphram.



Lee

That's true Lee. The top-tank McCulloch saws all use the HL application gasket whether the carb is an HL or a flatback. Same gasket. The face of the flatback carb flange has a groove cast into it that allows impulse signal to run from the gasket (in the 'HL possition') around to the 'flatback possition' port in the carb body. If a person used a gasket intended for a flatback equipped front-tank Mac (250, etc) on a top-tank Mac (regardless of which carb type he was using), the impulse signal would be blocked, as the impulse port on the top-tank saw's carb flange is in the 'HL possition' (low and just to the right of center).

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Anyone have a Homelite 410?


I got plenty of trade meat and stuff......



Chris

 

[AU_K2500]

Anybody know where to get some fiber washers? bout 3/8's I.D. and .050 thick?

ECCENTRIC: which one is the FM style?

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Anybody know where to get some fiber washers? bout 3/8's I.D. and .050 thick?

ECCENTRIC: which one is the FM style?

Here are some.
ONE FAIRBANKS MORSE STARTER CLUTCH FRICTION WASHER PART 58970 HOMELITE A57 | eBay

 

[Eccentric]

Anybody know where to get some fiber washers? bout 3/8's I.D. and .050 thick?

ECCENTRIC: which one is the FM style?

Here are some.
ONE FAIRBANKS MORSE STARTER CLUTCH FRICTION WASHER PART 58970 HOMELITE A57 | eBay

Sorry Mark. Cliff's link explains it. FM=Fairbanks/Morse. That's the type you showed a picture of earlier (and that those friction washers go to). The overrunning bearing type is the sprag-clutch type that Carl mentioned earlier. They're more problematic. I prefer the FM style. Later C/XP series saws (such as the XP1020, 1130G, 1050, and late production C-72 saws) have an even better setup. That's the type with two spring loaded pawls on the flywheel. Similar to what's on a McCulloch or an XL-series Homelite.

 

[67L36Driver]

Clutch drum bearing.

Where can I find a bearing setup for an Oregon 30666 rim drive clutch drum on a PL-4 Remington. Got one today at Orschlens.

Bailey's lists bearing ORF 11807 for the 30666 drum but I can't find the bearing on their website.:msp_confused:

Also need the Torrington inner race .375" i.d. x .500" o.d. x .530" long. Bearing house in town didn't even list it. Some kind of special.

May have to go the bronze bushing route again.

We have 'stuff'

Carl.

 

[AU_K2500]

Thanks for all the info Aaron. I was trying to get her started this afternoon, and after about a dozen pulls it would make a screching sound every time i was pulling but the flywheel was moving (the dogs were scraping) so i took off the starter and in the bowl, next to the end of the crank was two pieces of what used to be the one fiber washer i had.....crap! Thanks cliff for listing those, i just hope they dont all run 7 bucks for ONE freaking washer. Granted i only need two, but i dont really feel like paying 14 dollars plus shipping for two washers. Besdies this little problem, the two saws (C7 and C51) have combined to make a nice little unit. The C51 must have been cleaned up and rebuilt at some point, has an old tygon fuel line, and a carb kit in it, Jackpot!

Any other pointers for initial start up? will pouring small amounts of fuel down the carb still help with the carb set up on the C series.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks for all the info Aaron. I was trying to get her started this afternoon, and after about a dozen pulls it would make a screching sound every time i was pulling but the flywheel was moving (the dogs were scraping) so i took off the starter and in the bowl, next to the end of the crank was two pieces of what used to be the one fiber washer i had.....crap! Thanks cliff for listing those, i just hope they dont all run 7 bucks for ONE freaking washer. Granted i only need two, but i dont really feel like paying 14 dollars plus shipping for two washers. Besdies this little problem, the two saws (C7 and C51) have combined to make a nice little unit. The C51 must have been cleaned up and rebuilt at some point, has an old tygon fuel line, and a carb kit in it, Jackpot!

Any other pointers for initial start up? will pouring small amounts of fuel down the carb still help with the carb set up on the C series.

Yes. I use a small plunger type oil can or a plastic spray botttle to shoot some spritz's of fuel mix down the throat with the throttle held open. About 3-5 spritzes does the trick. The saw will fire and run for a couple seconds on the prime and then die. You do that cycle a couple times and the pump section of the carb will start pumping fuel on its own.

 

[watsonr]

OR.... if fast enough, pick-up the container and bottle feed it so it doesn't die.

 

[sawbones]

Yes. I use a small plunger type oil can or a plastic spray botttle to shoot some spritz's of fuel mix down the throat with the throttle held open. About 3-5 spritzes does the trick. The saw will fire and run for a couple seconds on the prime and then die. You do that cycle a couple times and the pump section of the carb will start pumping fuel on its own.

I have found this method the ONLY way to light up old saws. Another point to add especialy with saws that have sat
for some time is to have it running on the squirt can and if it wont pull fuel through the carb then also pull out the choke and the extra draw will sometimes pull an obstuction through the jet and make the carb work.

If it will run with the choke out but not in then a carb adjust may also do the trick before a tear down.


ric

 

[AU_K2500]

well ive been researching these damn washers. only two lisitngs on feebay are 7 dollars a piece, and cant find them anywhere else. anybody know a better source for Homelite part number 58970, or something else thatll work.

 

[DSS]

well ive been researching these damn washers. only two lisitngs on feebay are 7 dollars a piece, and cant find them anywhere else. anybody know a better source for Homelite part number 58970, or something else thatll work.

I don't see why you couldn't make something, it's just a round washer with a rectangular hole.

But what EXACTLY are they made from, thats the question.

 

[leeha]

well ive been researching these damn washers. only two lisitngs on feebay are 7 dollars a piece, and cant find them anywhere else. anybody know a better source for Homelite part number 58970, or something else thatll work.

I'm not sure where you can find them. Very popular
in alot of the older saws, Especially with the FairBanks
Morse starters. I'm sure there out there somewhere.
It would be cow bells in Hell before i would pay 7.00
for a stupid washer.




Lee

 

[AU_K2500]

Hot damn! 52 cents a piece! maybe ill buy in bulk and sell em for 50 cents less than those other guys....lol:hmm3grin2orange:

STARTER DOG CHAINSAW FIBRE WASHER | Cheap Online Parts

 

[leeha]

Hot damn! 52 cents a piece! maybe ill buy in bulk and sell em for 50 cents less than those other guys....lol:hmm3grin2orange:

STARTER DOG CHAINSAW FIBRE WASHER | Cheap Online Parts

There ya go, Sure beats 7 beans.

Thanks for the link.



Lee

 

[DSS]

I was just reading an old thread here, and somone made them out of leather and said they worked fine. I should have posted a link.

It seems like anything that has some grab to it would work.

EDIT....OK, I see you found some, never mind.:msp_tongue: