The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[Jordan3605]

incase any of you want/need these saws here they are:
PM10-10 missing Clutch Cover,Plug Wire,Choke Linkage,

PM10-10 Complete

Mac 10-10 Auto-RH Recoil. Complete

all have good compression. wanted to make sure noone in here needs or wants any of these. Can even take parts off if you need one of these parts.

 

[gottagetsawz]

incase any of you want/need these saws here they are:
PM10-10 missing Clutch Cover,Plug Wire,Choke Linkage,

PM10-10 Complete

Mac 10-10 Auto-RH Recoil. Complete

all have good compression. wanted to make sure noone in here needs or wants any of these. Can even take parts off if you need one of these parts.

what are you wanting to get out of them?

 

[naturelover]

Well, am happy to report that I finally got mine straightened out. As usual, it was a combination of a couple things.....

Checked the fuel line, and it was okay. Then my starter messed up, so I had to switch it out with the parts saw one.

Got it started, but quit a couple times, even backfiring through the carb. Then started it on the bench and got it to running decently (a key part as I would later find out).

I did get it to run for a bit longer, then it went to flooding out. I couldn't adjust it out with the L needle seated, so decided to play with the inlet needle lever. Instead of adjusting it like the manual says across the two tabs, I set it up level to the carb body.

Got the flooding out, but it was still stalling and missing. Turns out the switch was vibrating enough to cause it to jump spark a bit and cut out, sometimes enough to make it quit. Holding it level on the bench and starting it, instead of between the legs, let it run long enough for me to figure that out.

So I disconnected it and got the idle adjusted well, restarts easily, put the clutch cover and brake from the parts saw on and should be ready to adjust the high side..

And figure out the switch....

 

[jerrycmorrow]

very carefully take the switch apart. clean it up (i use electrical contact cleaner). put it back together. most of those operate on a pressure basis. if its spring loaded your spring may need to be re-bent (that would only be good for a while). if it was dirty it should be good to go. done that to a couple of hard to come by switches and off i went. should be able to do it in less than 10 minutes.

 

[Jordan3605]

incase any of you want/need these saws here they are:
PM10-10 missing Clutch Cover,Plug Wire,Choke Linkage,

PM10-10 Complete

Mac 10-10 Auto-RH Recoil. Complete

all have good compression. wanted to make sure noone in here needs or wants any of these. Can even take parts off if you need one of these parts.

These 3 are going to MS460WOODCHUCK . Thanks everyone

 

[naturelover]

Well, a couple pics afore it gets all dirty, assuming the rain stays away this eve.

Kinda too clean to get dirty though...

Will also need to make an oil tank gasket, as it's seeping a bit.

 

[Mac 6-10]

I know the feeling

 

[naturelover]

Cool!!! That right hand start is neat looking, make it hard to start?

Well, it didn't rain, so went to cutting this eve.


Ran great, a little carb adjustment was required, and still might be just a tad rich on idle. Started first or second pull, 'cept for the one time I flooded it. Where we were cutting was almost straight over, the new clutch cover with brake was a necessity in these conditions.

The Quake never even made it out the truck.

It ain't quite as fast as the 441C, nowhere near as smooth and nearly as heavy.

But dang, the sound.

I never noticed it as bad just doing test cuts with it when I had fixed it, but on a steep hill at chest level at full song..

Glad I had ear plugs.

 

[Mac 6-10]

I prefer the right hand start. It is eaiser for me and its a classic McCulloch trademark. Glad to see your 10-10s turned out great.

 

[mad murdock]

I too like RH start. A tad bit lighter.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I picked up a 3-10 today for 10 bucks. It's a good runner but the electric start don't work...it is missing some of the wiring. I'm thinking I want to remove the electric start anyhow. I'm guessing the regular bracket from a regular 10-10 series saw will work. Does anybody know if it will work for sure?

 

[workshop]

I've got a 10-10E that was missing the battery pack. Put in the bottom brace from a parts saw. Bolted into position perfect.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I've got a 10-10E that was missing the battery pack. Put in the bottom brace from a parts saw. Bolted into position perfect.

I figured it would work. Now I just need to find one lol.

 

[Eccentric]

I picked up a 3-10 today for 10 bucks. It's a good runner but the electric start don't work...it is missing some of the wiring. I'm thinking I want to remove the electric start anyhow. I'm guessing the regular bracket from a regular 10-10 series saw will work. Does anybody know if it will work for sure?

I'll trade ya a regular 10-series bracket for the E parts.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I got a bracket...what I need is a bucking spike for it.

 

[Mac 6-10]

I picked up a 3-10 today for 10 bucks. It's a good runner but the electric start don't work...it is missing some of the wiring. I'm thinking I want to remove the electric start anyhow. I'm guessing the regular bracket from a regular 10-10 series saw will work. Does anybody know if it will work for sure?

Why would you want to tear apart a 3-10E. I'll give you 20 bucks for it and you can send it to me!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Why would you want to tear apart a 3-10E. I'll give you 20 bucks for it and you can send it to me!

I use my saws to cut and the extra weight from the e-pack is just that...extra weight. I plan on keeping it and having a 3-10

 

[Mac 6-10]

But there are so many 10 series out there to do just that. The 3-10E is a special saw. I can send you a perfectly running 10-10 rhs for the 3-10E.

 

[Mac 6-10]

Oh and the 10-10 has a spike too!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I think I will keep my 3-10. It has a spike also but I still need another spike for my 55 lol.