The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[heimannm]

John - The 3-10E has several extra parts behind the flywheel that add a fair bit of weight to that model. Getting rid of the battery case helps, but you are still carrying a sum of extra baggage with the 3-10E. Take a look at customchainsawparts on e-Bay, he normally has some of the "4 bolt" style spikes that fit the older 10 Series as well as the gear drive models.

6-10 - I have a couple of 3-10E saws in the attic that have been sitting for a long time, my not even turn over but as I recall they are both mostly complete. We could work something out if you would like to add one to your McFamily.

Mark

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

John - The 3-10E has several extra parts behind the flywheel that add a fair bit of weight to that model. Getting rid of the battery case helps, but you are still carrying a sum of extra baggage with the 3-10E. Take a look at customchainsawparts on e-Bay, he normally has some of the "4 bolt" style spikes that fit the older 10 Series as well as the gear drive models.

6-10 - I have a couple of 3-10E saws in the attic that have been sitting for a long time, my not even turn over but as I recall they are both mostly complete. We could work something out if you would like to add one to your McFamily.

Mark

I know there is some more parts under the flywheel but that's ok. I'll shed a little weight though lol.

 

[workshop]

If anyone has extra stuff for 10-10E, such as battery pack, brushes, and connecting wiring. I would be interested in it. I have other 10-10 stuff I could trade as well as other saw parts.

 

[heimannm]

Workshop - You can get the batteries at a shop like "Batteries Plus" but be prepared, they charged me $80 to make up a set and they only lasted a couple of years. I may be able to find the other stuff you need in the attic, make a list and send it to me conversationally.

6-10 - I'll send a private conversation with some photos & information.

John - A regular 10 Series cover won't work on the "E" saws since the flywheel on the "E" version sticks out further. You will need to find a flywheel cover off an "E" saw.

Mark

 

[mad murdock]

Twould be a real shame to see a 10'series 'E' saw gutted especially when there are so many standard 10-10'smto be had for next to nothing!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Its not gutted. I simply removed the battery pack that didn't work anyhow. I paid 10 bucks for the saw so 80.00 for the batteries doesn't sound to appealing.

 

[machinisttx]

Depending on the cellls used in the battery pack, you can probably rebuild the pack yourself for under $20. If it's got sub-c cells in it, they are super common and easy to find.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Depending on the cellls used in the battery pack, you can probably rebuild the pack yourself for under $20. If it's got sub-c cells in it, they are super common and easy to find.

Oh well...the thing fired on the first pull yesterday and it had not been started in two days. I can handle that. I do think the 20'' factory bar on it is a bit much though. Probably throw a 16'' on it.

 

[machinisttx]

Here's an example of pricing on sub c cells. http://www.amazon.com/Extended-Capacity-Rechargeable-Solder-DASC2100WT/dp/B003X4MZ76

You might find them cheaper if you looked around a little.

 

[fearofpavement]

I know the 10-10A saws with the right hand start seem to be more desirable but do they have any value? ie, if a left hand start 10-10A can be had for $60, how much more if any would a right hand start one be? I have one I'm planning to sell but the auto oiler isn't working. I have a left hand one on CL now and fixed that oiler with a new o-ring and suspect the RH start one needs the same tweak. However, if the saw isn't worth much, I may just sell it as is to someone that doesn't mind pushing the manual oiler button... Any thoughts on this?

 

[naturelover]

Well, I have to use the manual oiler on my 10-10s...

However, got me to wondering about the parts oiler, and what it contains.







Interesting how the rear of the pump is held down with the spring.

I'll have to tear into mine sometime, may just be the leaky cover gasket, but will check it out when I have it apart.

ETA:

Manual oil plunger, just comes apart with a little prying of the top.

 

[heimannm]

nature - There is a check valve in the body of the automatic oil pump, but if it isn't working the manual oil pump won't work either. If the manual works but the automatic pump does not, the piston (that thin rod with the phenolic disc) is sticking. You can check out the automatic pump by putting a little light oil in the small holes near the hold down screw and working the pump manually, you will see it draw down on one side and pump up and out on the other. The spring system is the last in a string a methods to secure the automatic pump. Earliest models had three screws, in between versions had a spring type clip on top of the oil pump, some relied on only one screw but that was not successful.

fear - I expect you will only find the RH model more desirable by some McCollector, so don't expect a big premium if you decide to sell that one.

Mark

 

[mad murdock]

I have several 10 series saws, 10-10's a 6-10, a PM700 and an SP81E. As far as the 10-10's go, I prefer the RH start version over the LH ones, they are a tad lighter. Other than that, I will take either one over any other 50-ish cc saw- best built saws of all time in they size range, and the bigger ones are the best built saws as well. I really love the 10 series macs. Just plain old good saws.

 

[heimannm]

Try a CP55, you will find it very comparable to a 10-10 but without the vibrations, or a CP70 in place of the PM700, again very comparable in weight and performance but sans vibration.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Its not gutted. I simply removed the battery pack that didn't work anyhow. I paid 10 bucks for the saw so 80.00 for the batteries doesn't sound to appealing.

It's far more appealing than if you'd paid $80 for the saw and the batteries were another $80. I understand wanting/needing to be frugal.............but I can't understand why guys who'd put a bit of $$$ into a saw that cost them good money to begin with...........but won't put anything into a cheap/free saw.

The 'best' one was the guys in the "Poulan XXV Bible" thread (or whatever they'd called it) last year who were arguing with MMark and myself over putting a $6 carb kit or $4 crank seals into an XXV series saw that they only paid $ for. They were trying to reuse old rubber parts because they just couldn't see putting ANY money into a cheap/free saw. Bass-ackwards thinking......

I still think you'd be better off trading that mostly complete E saw for a good running non-E. Making a non-E out of an E doesn't make sense to me...

 

[machinisttx]

I tend to agree. If I get something really cheap, that means I can afford to spend a few bucks on preventative maintenance or replacement parts.

 

[fearofpavement]

Well, I do intend to sell my rh start 10-10A as well. The problem is that the oiler on that one is the three screw version which requires a lot more disassembly to access it. If it isn't worth much more than the LH start one, then I'll just sell it "broke" rather than invest additional time into it. I won't "use" it and I don't collect saws so any that aren't part of my regular cutting line up are going out the door eventually. I had gotten both of them running quite some time ago and only recently finished up the LH start one and am selling that and the other one will follow shortly. Neither of them are pristine. About average I would say. They do cut pretty well for their age. I don't have a lot of money invested into it, mostly labor. So when I get back to Georgia I'll get some pics and post it up. I used to put saws like that on here but with shipping being so high now it isn't as good of deal for the buyer anymore so I just list them locally. So far I've sold every saw I've attempted except a Husky 55. That one hasn't moved so I just keep it in my line up.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Look guys, I would have never paid $80.00 for the saw to start with. Heck I wouldn't have paid $50.00 for it. I bought the saw from a guy that I know a little for $10.00 simply for the bucking spike that I wanted for one of my PM55's. We all know these spikes are getting a little more costly and harder to find so I bought it for the spike. The guy told me he had it running before but it needed a clutch he thought. Well he is not the most ambitious or brightest guy...so after getting the saw home I noticed the chain was not on the rim sprocket. Well, with the chain installed correctly and fresh mix the old mac fired right up and ran pretty good. The saw looks to be pretty low hours and I plan on keeping it around and running it every now and then. I do not want to put money into the saw nor do I want to spend money to ship it on a trade. It's just another yeller saw sitting in the shop with a few others.

Aaron, I have put money into a cheap saw a lot of times in the past. Most of the saws I've had were cheap ones and I'm not trying to make a non-e out of a e, just removed a part that was dangling from a couple wires when I got it and installing a part that is solid so that the saw can be used buddy.

 

[Eccentric]

10-4.

 

[naturelover]

Well, since the power went out right during the start of the Winter Classic, went and finished up the downed tree we had been cutting on last weekend...



Even the Quake got in some action this time for the smaller stuff.