The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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Warped5
WingNut
This isn't 'the mystery thread' ...
Chop-chop, let's get to it ....
opcorn:
Chop-chop, let's get to it ....
opcorn:
naturelover
Tree Freak
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, my main reason for getting this saw was for a couple things. The clutch cover/brake assy, and the carb kit. I figured that alone would cost me the $50 I have in it if purchased separately. Plus it had an unbroken a/f cover, and thought may luck into a duckbill for the fuel cap. One of my bar plates is ground off on the bottom, so figured if I got them, would be a plus. Did get everything but a duckbill for the fuel cap...
So, here it sits on the bench...
Guessing this is why this became a parts saw, also some more blue silicone. Been running into this a couple times lately...
However, there was also a new looking bottom half clamshell included. My guess is that the p.o. was going to switch them out.
Appears as if either the rod bolts came loose and snapped off, or just snapped and ended up making those nice marks in the pan..
So another crank was with it also, along with another cylinder.
Both cylinders look salvegable.....
So, here it sits on the bench...
Guessing this is why this became a parts saw, also some more blue silicone. Been running into this a couple times lately...
However, there was also a new looking bottom half clamshell included. My guess is that the p.o. was going to switch them out.
Appears as if either the rod bolts came loose and snapped off, or just snapped and ended up making those nice marks in the pan..
So another crank was with it also, along with another cylinder.
Both cylinders look salvegable.....
naturelover
Tree Freak
Cylinder 1. Complete with muffler and coil, and even a plug...
I am thinking this is the one that the problem occured in, as you can see some marks around where the rod would be rotating through the recess in the clylinder. However, no marks or anything in the clyinder from whatever happened. Don't see how with the score mark in the piston....
Cylinder 2. Doesn't look as good as above, but think it would still run. Does look to be a small amount of transfer around both ports...
Piston that looks to have been run in cylinder 1..
Piston that looks to have been run in clyinder 2..
Soo after all of that, my conundrum......
Whether or not to steal the parts off this one to put on my 10-10s, or to rebuild this one with the included parts..
Would have to get a b/c for it if it were all there....
Still need a couple of air filters, and will research some more into the Homelite duckbill mods I had thought I'd read about on here....
I am thinking this is the one that the problem occured in, as you can see some marks around where the rod would be rotating through the recess in the clylinder. However, no marks or anything in the clyinder from whatever happened. Don't see how with the score mark in the piston....
Cylinder 2. Doesn't look as good as above, but think it would still run. Does look to be a small amount of transfer around both ports...
Piston that looks to have been run in cylinder 1..
Piston that looks to have been run in clyinder 2..
Soo after all of that, my conundrum......
Whether or not to steal the parts off this one to put on my 10-10s, or to rebuild this one with the included parts..
Would have to get a b/c for it if it were all there....
Still need a couple of air filters, and will research some more into the Homelite duckbill mods I had thought I'd read about on here....
powerking
ArboristSite Guru
....So finally added a piece of yellow to my collection! Pro-Mac 10-10...I just got the fuel line for it today, but I couldn't wait for it, so I used a makeshift line to see if she would run. I got her for $40...Compression was at 150lbs and I took her home. Rebuilt the carb and cleaned her up...she runs really well. Tommorrow I will put the correct line on it. question...how can I tell what year it is? the tag says 600014U....then 12-21299 under it
Thanks
Powerking
Thanks
Powerking
Warped5
WingNut
Hi PK, congrats on the new acquisition. Excuse the incomplete answer here .. the last three digits on the '6000' number is the model designation. The '12' number is the serial .... and that's all I can tell you.
Hopefully, a member with greater expertise will happen along and be able to provide additional 'decoding' ...
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well, I did get mine back together; mostly...
Did get it to run, but can't seem to find a good idle. The one decent spot I did find was too lean off idle.
What's a good starting point for these? I'm thinking I was at 2 out from seated on both screws.
Might run the carb off the parts saw through the USC and slap it on there just to see.
Did get it to run, but can't seem to find a good idle. The one decent spot I did find was too lean off idle.
What's a good starting point for these? I'm thinking I was at 2 out from seated on both screws.
Might run the carb off the parts saw through the USC and slap it on there just to see.
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Warped5
WingNut
I usually start mine at 1 - 1.25 turns out from seated ...
naturelover
Tree Freak
Thanks! I'll start from there and see, may have been too far out.
Thought I read on here about using a Homelite duckbill and drilling the fuel cap for it? Anyone have a part number?
Also have some air cleaners on the way....
The Homelite duck bill valve for the fuel cap is 69451, just Google "Homelite duck bill valve" and you will get a whole page of results.
If your fuel cap has the plastic or brass stem, just twist it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful as there should be a spring and a sort of brass grommet that hold the duck bill valve seated. Drill out the stem to 5/32" deep enough to let the new duck bill valve seat and carefully press it back together.
If I recall, the ones with the brass stem may not have a spring, I was successful getting the Homelite duck bill valve to seat properly by putting 2 or 3 tiny O-rings over the little metal tube in the cap.
Mark
If your fuel cap has the plastic or brass stem, just twist it out with a pair of pliers. Be careful as there should be a spring and a sort of brass grommet that hold the duck bill valve seated. Drill out the stem to 5/32" deep enough to let the new duck bill valve seat and carefully press it back together.
If I recall, the ones with the brass stem may not have a spring, I was successful getting the Homelite duck bill valve to seat properly by putting 2 or 3 tiny O-rings over the little metal tube in the cap.
Mark
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naturelover
Tree Freak
Got two ordered.. Thanks!
I stuffed a piece of cotton swab in there for now, am hoping to try it out this week as I am in real need of some dry wood. I'll take the other saws just in case..
Still need to find some sealer for the tank halves, but will have to pull the gasket out of it and get it copied so I can try and cut another one for the parts 10-10s above.
Not sure what to do about the parts 10-10s gas cap though, as it didn't have the brass plug in there. If I get it running, might have to see if I can find the whole cap.
Did get the parts 10-10s carb cleaned.... Dagnabbit! Carb kit!!! That's what I was gonna order, knew I was forgetting something..
Thanks! I stuffed a piece of cotton swab in there for now, am hoping to try it out this week as I am in real need of some dry wood. I'll take the other saws just in case..
Still need to find some sealer for the tank halves, but will have to pull the gasket out of it and get it copied so I can try and cut another one for the parts 10-10s above.
Not sure what to do about the parts 10-10s gas cap though, as it didn't have the brass plug in there. If I get it running, might have to see if I can find the whole cap.
Did get the parts 10-10s carb cleaned.... Dagnabbit! Carb kit!!! That's what I was gonna order, knew I was forgetting something..
naturelover
Tree Freak
Help...
It won't run for more than a few seconds and won't come up off idle without dying.
When I first start it, it idles and takes gas for about 5 seconds, then it won't take the gas without dying.
Pulling the choke seems to help, but not fix it.
Switched carbs (ran worse, didn't think I'd even get it started, so switched back), double checked metering height per online Walbro manual and checked order of gaskets in new carb kit. Fuel line is less than 6 months old, both carbs ran through USC..
Thought maybe it was my piece of cotton stuffed in the gas cap vent hole, removed that and still no go.
It won't run for more than a few seconds and won't come up off idle without dying.
When I first start it, it idles and takes gas for about 5 seconds, then it won't take the gas without dying.
Pulling the choke seems to help, but not fix it.
Switched carbs (ran worse, didn't think I'd even get it started, so switched back), double checked metering height per online Walbro manual and checked order of gaskets in new carb kit. Fuel line is less than 6 months old, both carbs ran through USC..
Thought maybe it was my piece of cotton stuffed in the gas cap vent hole, removed that and still no go.
naturelover
Tree Freak
Well....
After I got it all sealed up with my new tube of Yamabond, I'm wondering if the fuel line I put in during the summer is bad...
I took the a/f off, and noticed that there was a bubble in the fuel line that didn't appear to be moving.
I'll have to see if I can plug it and vac check it...
After I got it all sealed up with my new tube of Yamabond, I'm wondering if the fuel line I put in during the summer is bad...
I took the a/f off, and noticed that there was a bubble in the fuel line that didn't appear to be moving.
I'll have to see if I can plug it and vac check it...
You may have a plugged pulse port for the fuel pump. pull the carb and sparkplug and crank the engine. there should be a noticeable pulse pushing out of the little hole by the intake. if that passage is clogged anyware the fuel pump diaphram wont move and pump fuel.
naturelover
Tree Freak
Will double check. I did notice the impulse hole through the carb base gasket wasn't cut out completely, so I fixed that with a small prick...
kgip2k
ArboristSite Operative
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That's your 'garden variety' LH start 10-10A. Earlier ones were RH start. That's one of the last of that style (with the domed AF and AF cover instead of the 'flat' filter), as it has the operator presence lever/throttle lock mostly seen on later Macs. Go to this site and look up your serial # prefix (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) and model # (6xxxxxx) to find your exact IPL.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch-Parts-Service-Repair-Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/
Obviously, you need an AF cover. Go post in the Old Magnesium Swap Meet thread. I'll bet somebody can help you. Can't see if you have an air filter under that 'custom' filter cover. That domed style filter is on ebay, but they're a bit pricey.
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch-Parts-Service-Repair-Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/
Obviously, you need an AF cover. Go post in the Old Magnesium Swap Meet thread. I'll bet somebody can help you. Can't see if you have an air filter under that 'custom' filter cover. That domed style filter is on ebay, but they're a bit pricey.
kgip2k
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, will check IPL when I getget thje saw. Not sure if it has filter or not, other pic I have of the saw does look like their is something under the home made cover.
