Tired of Dull Chains

[7sleeper]

Think they may be taking to much metal off a cutter at one time. That is the only way I think they could over heat a cutter. Like I said it depends on the idiot running the damn thing.

Then it doesn't matter if it is the 29$ or the 500$ grinder, an idiot will always be capable of ruining a chain. And a knowledgeable person will always know how to use either tool with better results.

But what I was talking about is that as soon as you begin using pressure with the el cheapo the wheel is going to stop! simply because it is not powerful enough! We are not comparing an angle grinder but a real weak electric motor!

7

 

[M_S_S]

True

 

[Brushwacker]

To keep my cutters uniform and meticulusly sharp after a few hours use I mount my chainsaw when home in a vice at a level my eyes focus very well on the cutter and I file around 1 or more times until all are even and sharp. I gauge my tooth size with different size screw drivers, suppose there are better gauges, but my screwdrivers are handy. Use my eyes to make the gullets look even and hit the drags evenly a bit now and then. Sharp files make it easy to keep things even,and it doesn't waste time and physical effort taking to long, I discard dull files. If I feel my saw cutting speed slowing up while working, or suspect it will from the cutting conditions , I will touch them up usually at refilling time or switch to another chainsaw as needed to keep going with a nice sharp chain. I carry extra chains and bars in my truck, once in a while I do some switching, but with usually 3 or more saws in the truck, I switch saws. I hate using a 1/2 sharp chain or less, to much work, harder on the operator and the chainsaw itself.
I also try to miss dirt or debark with an axe if my cut is where dirt is present.
I do use a grinder now and then on badly dulled chains or chains that pile up on me not on saws, being careful not to overheat them which usually requires going around multiple times on other then touch ups.

 

[turnkey4099]

Think they may be taking to much metal off a cutter at one time. That is the only way I think they could over heat a cutter. Like I said it depends on the idiot running the damn thing.

Yep, and that is why I can hand file a chain faster than grinding it - multiple passes instead of one pass taking too much off at once or "dabbing" at a heavy cut. It doesn't take much to get that very thin edge too hot.

Harry K

 

[haveawoody]

One thing I've noticed on guys with sharp chains is the difference one person has to the next for how long it stays sharp.
Dirt diving is #1 fastest way to dull a chain but lots of guys cut as if it's an indy 500 event with lots of down pressure and no chain rest before the next cut so a hot chain and they also dull faster.
Removing a few 100 limbs and cutting them up to size with the same saw you dropped a tree is also going to dull the chain quick so when it's time to cut the main into sections the chain is already semi dull and needs even more down pressure.

IMO 3 things that go a long way to less sharpening are.
#1 keep it out of the dirt.
#2 slow up just a bit and reduce down pressure when cutting, the saw the chain and you will all be cooler
#3 get or have a small limb saw just for that, it's safer to have a small saw and your main saw not cutting all the small stuff up will keep it sharp, your little limb saw is easy to sharpen with a small bar.

 

[Bob95065]

I had a bunch of redwood stump that were left here when they dropped the trees before they built the house in the early 1970s. I finished bringing the last two down from 4' to the ground to get ready for the stump grinder. There was a lot of dirt in the stump. I got about 1/2 tank out of a chain before it was really dull. The last two stumps were about 4' across and I have a 32" bar on my big saw. It was a lot of work and a lot of filing.

 

[danl]

First of all I know everyone has a different opinion on chain sharpening...
I tried the little Dremel looking tool, harbor freight, northern, Granburg , Husky filoplate, plain files, think I have one of about everything cause I'm LD when it comes to filing.
Someone posted on here about timberline, I bought one asap, cause I believe everything I read on here......
Anyway, it works for me. Once I started using a feeler gauge to set the height, I put the chain on the saw and know it's gonna cut like new. I think I've had it two years and that's a record for me not buying a new gadget!

 

[esshup]

Pardon for the hijack, but it IS sorta related.

There was a thread (a LONG one) about all the tips and tricks that you needed to do to the cheapie grinders to get them to perform like a more expensive grinder. Changing the wheel, adding shims, etc. I had it bookmarked, and with the hack, now the bookmark isn't good any more. Does anybody know where that thread is? I've got a cheap grinder that I need to true up and start using.

 

[Philbert]

This one is for the NT type: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/northern-hyd-grinder-making-it-work-pics.40844/

This one is for the 511A: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

There are some other links to related threads in those, and many more about using a grinder. Note that some photo links have been lost in these older threads.

Philbert

 

[danl]

Do a search for northern, I don't know how to tell exactly where it is but I just found it that way I think it is the one you want

 

[danl]

Was typing at same time as philbert and he is obviously better at it than me

 

[FishNJ]

I just bought the stihl 2-in-1 file that does the cutters and the rakers at the same time. Took 20 minutes to restore a badly rocked chain and takes 5 min to touch up every two or three tanks. $38. Chains last longer too as you remove less cutter than grinding. I won't fart Around with another grinder.


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[Philbert]

I just bought the stihl 2-in-1 file that does the cutters and the rakers at the same time. Took 20 minutes to restore a badly rocked chain and takes 5 min to touch up every two or three tanks. $38. Chains last longer too as you remove less cutter than grinding. I won't fart Around with another grinder.

There's your problem! You're not supposed to fart on your grinder: you supposed to lightly grind chains with it!

Seriously, if that STIHL/Pferd device works for you, then stick with it. Doesn't matter what other folks use. And welcome to A.S.!

Philbert

 

[FishNJ]

Thanks. Definitely not a pro when it comes to this but have been clearing woods for about 15 years already. I've tried a few different grinders and by the time I got each one adjusted and started into it I could have been done filing. Just too much setup and farting for me . And forget paying $10 per chain at the local shop to grind 1/3 of the cutter off and not touch the rakers. Like you said in just glad I've finally found something that works for me.


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[cantoo]

Just for the record I have never filed a raker, that's right never. And I've worn out a bunch of chains, worn them down right down to a nub, just like 08f150"s nub.

 

[zogger]

Just for the record I have never filed a raker, that's right never. And I've worn out a bunch of chains, worn them down right down to a nub, just like 08f150"s nub.

Trick statement, no rakers, but filed depth gauges?

I freehand, or use the pfered two file thing, or the husky roller contraption. The husky roller gives me smoother and more consistent results, the pferd is faster. Freehand is still OK, but meh...older I get the shakier I get....

I would like to try a timberline, but not a hundred bucks worth of want to try.

 

[danl]

Trick statement, no rakers, but filed depth gauges?

I freehand, or use the pfered two file thing, or the husky roller contraption. The husky roller gives me smoother and more consistent results, the pferd is faster. Freehand is still OK, but meh...older I get the shakier I get....

I would like to try a timberline, but not a hundred bucks worth of want to try.

Go for it it's worth it. I would NOT part with mine. I am a terrible chain sharpener. It is the difference in me going to the woods absolutely knowing my saw is going to cut. No I don't work for timberline .read my old posts you will find I am a long time underachieving chain sharpener...

 

[zogger]

Go for it it's worth it. I would NOT part with mine. I am a terrible chain sharpener. It is the difference in me going to the woods absolutely knowing my saw is going to cut. No I don't work for timberline .read my old posts you will find I am a long time underachieving chain sharpener...

Maybe with income tax kickback next year. Right now beyond broke, can't even drive my chebby, got 8 wheels and tires to fit it and only 3 of them are any good, as in, near baldies, hold air and don't wiggle or whomp going down the road. The rest are blown out or soon to be.

I can afford replacement hand files, some gas, mix and baroil and that's it.

Those sharpeners do look slick and like they would work well.

 

[Dusty Rhodes]

IMO learn to hand sharpen. And IMO the bench grinder is not the holy grail of sharpening. I have a Bench Grinder that I rarely use for myself, but use for others who demo their chains. For routine sharpening a grinder take a lot of material away fast. If you rock a chain or hit some metal then they serve a purpose, but for routine sharpening when the cutters start to dull I opt to hand file to keep my chains sharp. If you learn to do it consistently well your cutters will be razor sharp. I have used the Husky Roller guides and the Granburg and they work well if you take the time to learn how to use them. As others have said keep your chain out of the dirt/ rocks and you will only need to touch your chains up with a file. I mostly use semi chisel chain and believe they stay sharp longer than full chisel between filings. Also you should be able to feel when the chain is dulling and you need to stop and touch it up. Keep the chain lubed well and let the weight of the saw do the cutting, you should not have to bear down hard to get through the cut. It is pure joy to cut wood with a saw that has a sharp chain.

 

[Brush Ape]

Junk files is really the biggest issue in it. I like what BrushWacker said about pitching the files when they're spent. They are $1.05 each. The second it is glazed, she goes in the heap. Don't get all sentimental about a worn out piece of junk. For a buck if you got two chains out of it in half hour of effort and you carefully looked over the whole thing link by link it's razor sharp and you saved ten bucks. Get another dang file. Rant over for now.

Well unless you step up to square. Them files are higher. But you get the flat sides which works on depth gauges. so five bucks instead of one.