Tired of Dull Chains

[artbaldoni]

That's the only sharpening "gadget" I do use, but I had to modify it just a bit to fit Stihl chain. I also removed the depth gauge do-hicky from it (I don't care for it, too slow and always in the way). I don't use it for touch-ups and such, but when I clamp the saw in the bench vise for a full-blown sharpening I will... once you get on to it the darn thing won't add more than a few seconds to the time required for a loop. It flat works to keep the file a the proper depth, or at least a consistent depth... and automatically adjusts that depth as the cutter gets shorter. Simple, effective, inexpensive and super fast, but be warned, it doesn't do anything to keep the file at proper or consistent angles... that part is up to you.
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What he said!

 

[blades]

2 tips on files - they only cut on the stroke away from you, do not pull back in contact with item to be sharpened- dulls the teeth. rub some bar soap on the file before starting -keeps the fillings from sticking in the gullets between the teeth of the file. Doing these 2 things will make them last much longer.

 

[ray benson]

2 tips on files - they only cut on the stroke away from you, do not pull back in contact with item to be sharpened- dulls the teeth. rub some bar soap on the file before starting -keeps the fillings from sticking in the gullets between the teeth of the file. Doing these 2 things will make them last much longer.

And try a golf ball for a file handle.

 

[CWME]

I run a Oregon 511AX and it does a great job for my personal and customer chains. The quality of the grinder being used makes a difference as well as the technique being used. You get what you pay for when you buy a $30 grinder.

I love free hand filing but some damage is a whole lot esier to fix on a grinder IMO. If I dull a chain out in the field I typically have another saw or three to run anyway=)

If you have the $ the 511AX is a great machine.

 

[blades]

I run a Oregon 511AX and it does a great job for my personal and customer chains. The quality of the grinder being used makes a difference as well as the technique being used. You get what you pay for when you buy a $30 grinder.

I love free hand filing but some damage is a whole lot esier to fix on a grinder IMO. If I dull a chain out in the field I typically have another saw or three to run anyway=)

If you have the $ the 511AX is a great machine.

Yep have 2 of them one set for either side.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Funny this thread resurfaced today. I recently swapped a 16" bar and chain onto a saw that had an 18" set up previously. Still .325, but was a Stihl chain, now it's got an Oregon. Anyway, without thinking about it I just grabbed the same file I'd been using. I should have picked up on how tight it fit, but I fought my way through. Worked my arse off, even noted that the tie straps were getting scuffed, still didn't register. Stuck it in wood after it was "all done". Dang near nothing. Hardly cut at all. About this time I'm getting frustrated... Have I lost it? I get the cheaters out and start more closely inspecting the chain that just won't cut. It finally hits me: no hook. Dropped to a smaller file, gave each tooth another few strokes. Zap, Pow, Bang! She throws chips. I coulda kicked my own arse.

 

[sunfish]

Funny this thread resurfaced today. I recently swapped a 16" bar and chain onto a saw that had an 18" set up previously. Still .325, but was a Stihl chain, now it's got an Oregon. Anyway, without thinking about it I just grabbed the same file I'd been using. I should have picked up on how tight it fit, but I fought my way through. Worked my arse off, even noted that the tie straps were getting scuffed, still didn't register. Stuck it in wood after it was "all done". Dang near nothing. Hardly cut at all. About this time I'm getting frustrated... Have I lost it? I get the cheaters out and start more closely inspecting the chain that just won't cut. It finally hits me: no hook. Dropped to a smaller file, gave each tooth another few strokes. Zap, Pow, Bang! She throws chips. I coulda kicked my own arse.

I use a 3/16" file on both Oregon & Stihl .325 chain.

 

[ray benson]

I use a 3/16" file on both Oregon & Stihl .325 chain.

Same here.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Yep, 3/16" here too. But not on 33sl. (I think that's what the sharkfin crap is). Opening the gullet of the 33 then coming back with the correct file size has it cutting quite well. My point was if you're having no joy, check your specs. Wrong file for the wrong chain won't give good results no matter how much you sharpen them.

 

[sunfish]

Yep, 3/16" here too. But not on 33sl. (I think that's what the sharkfin crap is). Opening the gullet of the 33 then coming back with the correct file size has it cutting quite well. My point was if you're having no joy, check your specs. Wrong file for the wrong chain won't give good results no matter how much you sharpen them.

I see. I don't use any of the super safety shark fin crap...

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Lol, I hear ya. I was given a handful of them. They work fine actually. Cut ok, and run fairly smooth. Just can't hardly bore cut. I don't think I'd buy it, but I'll take any freebie chains. Sometimes it's a challenge to get them to cut. Usually it's just a matter of setting the depth gauges & knocking off the shiny parts.

 

[Mike Kunte]

2 tips on files - they only cut on the stroke away from you, do not pull back in contact with item to be sharpened- dulls the teeth. rub some bar soap on the file before starting -keeps the fillings from sticking in the gullets between the teeth of the file. Doing these 2 things will make them last much longer.

Hey Blades!
Great tip! Will beeswax also work for this?

Mike

 

[sawjunky23]

Yeah, I've got some thoughts.

I've never seen a power sharpener (grinder) that could put as sharp an edge on the cutters as a proper hand filing does... so if'n ya' want "all the links sticky sharp", buy a couple new files.
I've never seen a sharpening job from a power sharpener (grinder) last as long as a proper hand filing does... so if'n ya' want a long-lasting cutting edge, buy a couple new files.
I have a dozen or so chains (16" and 20"), and I have no problem keeping sharp chains "ready to go" using hand files... I can sharpen a chain in 5-10 minutes; do you think a power sharpener (grinder) will be faster doing 2 or 3 chains?? Think again.
If ya' just want a power sharpener (grinder), then get one. Besides, they can be handy when and if ya' badly screw-up a chain. But ya' sure don't need to justify it to us... power tools/toys/equipment are the measure of a man. Heck, I've got stuff I ain't never used (the latest acquisition is a scroll saw I have absolutely zero use for... but I may take it out'a the box and mount it on the bench just for the cool factor).

He who dies with the most toys... WINS‼
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Spoken like a true gentleman!

 

[blades]

Hey Blades!
Great tip! Will beeswax also work for this?

Mike

No really - chalk works well, better than soap. Soap you can scrub out. I just picked on soap cause everyone has that around. wax is too sticky and you need solvents to clean it off

 

[Mike Kunte]

No really - chalk works well, better than soap. Soap you can scrub out. I just picked on soap cause everyone has that around. wax is too sticky and you need solvents to clean it off

Thanks!