To Skip or not to Skip... 372XP X-Torq

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Nope. If you have 24" and a 28" bar handy take a measurement.

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Thanks for the photos. That seems more like a manufacturers discrepancy. I would assume (and am prepared to be wrong) that bars from the same company would be more uniform.
 
All the 28" are 7-9 dl longer than the 24". From 20" to 24" is 12 dl. It doesn't make much sense that they do that. A 28" will give you 25" of cut on most saws with the larger spikes.
 
All the 28" are 7-9 dl longer than the 24". From 20" to 24" is 12 dl. It doesn't make much sense that they do that. A 28" will give you 25" of cut on most saws with the larger spikes.

That's good to know. Thanks for the lesson and sorry about the dig at Tennesee. ;)
 
That's good to know. Thanks for the lesson and sorry about the dig at Tennesee. ;)

No problem.

I don't see much point in spending the money to go to a 28" from a 24" unless you want a lightweight bar like the stihl ES light or oregon reduced weight. The little reach you gain is minimal.
 
No problem.

I don't see much point in spending the money to go to a 28" from a 24" unless you want a lightweight bar like the stihl ES light or oregon reduced weight. The little reach you gain is minimal.

...specially since the true differense is quite a bit less than the 28 vs. 24" called length indicate....


Edit; Sorry, I was a bit late with that info....
 
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This is great info -- I didn't realize the leap from 20 to 24 is much more than 24 to 28 -- more drive links and more bar length.

What this tells me if looking for 4 more inches of bar for larger felling convenience it may make sense to go to a 30" bar with JGX chain (skip chain) since some feel it may be pushing the power the saw has to run full comp and it would be nice not to have so many cutters to sharpen. I've noticed cutter quantity even on the 20" bar on my 262 versus 24 on the 372 -- quicker sharpening the smaller bar.

I noticed oregon only has the 30" bar in 0.050 gauge. I've been using 0.058 gauge bar and chain -- can I use 0.050 by just putting on the new bar and chain? i.e. would I need to change the rim sprocket to run the narrower gauge drive links? It looks like the answer is no based on Oregon's website -- drive link gauge just needs to match the bar. While I'm at it -- can the stock 7 pin rim sprocket on my 372XP run a 0.063 gauge drive link? It seems the choice of bar gauge is less with the longer bars -- i.e. I'm only seeing 0.063 for the 36" Oregon Powermatch bar for instance... (not looking at 36" for the 372 -- will need to go buy that new 390XP to go with a 36" bar ;)

Thanks again everyone for the info and pictures help a lot when understanding how much more bar length you really get when going longer than 24".

BTW: Now that I know this about the 24" versus 28" and how much smaller a leap it is in length and drive links, I might consider if the current bar gets wrecked replacing the 24 with a 28 and the big dual dog set from Bailey's which look like they'd be nice for felling support -- lose a couple inches with the big dogs but gain them back with 28 inch bar.
 
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All the 28" are 7-9 dl longer than the 24". From 20" to 24" is 12 dl. It doesn't make much sense that they do that. A 28" will give you 25" of cut on most saws with the larger spikes.



-16" to 20" is 12 dl
-20" to 24" is 12 dl
-24" to 28" is 7-9dl
-28" to 32" is again 12dl...

Now 12 x .366" = 4.39" (and not 4.0), so there will be a need to "compensate" for that deviation at some point - but why is it all done at one place? Also, those maths are only accurate if all bar profiles are the same at the front and back, and parallell between, which isn't the case....
 

Do you quilt too.... I like the cutting mat!!:hmm3grin2orange:[/QUOTE]

My wife does a lot. She was putting that mat in the yard sale pile and I snagged it up. Makes cutting up old shirts for gun cleaning patches way faster than scissors. :msp_smile:

Stihl makes 30" bars in .050" and .063". You can run them with a cannon adapter. If weight isn't a problem cannon makes 30" in both sizes also.
 
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Do you quilt too.... I like the cutting mat!!:hmm3grin2orange:

My wife does a lot. She was putting that mat in the yard sale pile and I snagged it up. Makes cutting up old shirts for gun cleaning patches way faster than scissors. :msp_smile:[/QUOTE]

Yeah, but isn't the chain hard on the mat?:yoyo:
 
My wife does a lot. She was putting that mat in the yard sale pile and I snagged it up. Makes cutting up old shirts for gun cleaning patches way faster than scissors. :msp_smile:

Yeah, but isn't the chain hard on the mat?:yoyo:[/QUOTE]

Shhh. I go borrow her cutter that looks like a pizza cutter:taped:
 
Ha there Darren

I have found a skip chisel chain in pine is quicker than full comp and as you know easy er to sharpen, but then who sharpens chains when cutting pine ?.:msp_smile:

mate i just grind all the cutters off and sharpen the depth gauges
 

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