ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Those busted wedges work well to shim up a short leg on the kitchen table, put in a new shop man door, etc. 
Wedge Renewal
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Used a few with the drill press. Lots of other things. Ron
Various attempts by different people to organize saw kits and equipment. Personally, I don't care if I use a wedge from 'Kit #4' with 'Saw #5'. But it can be hard to keep equipment organized when used by different teams of people.
Philbert
Ted, show us some photos or illustrations. Anyone can run out of wedges, and it would be handy to have a good way to make them in the woods.
Philbert
You can just walk up to a limb hanging out from a log with chain saw and make two tapered cuts to make a wedge. Table saw works OK too. If they are just a little moist they seem to be indestructible. I will try to get some pictures out. Thanks
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Similar restoration to to your self but use a belt sander on it"s slowest speed to shape the end it doesn't "fuss" the plastic as much
We make felling wedges anywhere when running chainsaws out of any available wood, prefer hardwoods but don`t matter much. Make them and leave them after using them, plenty of wood in the forest to make more.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just make the grain go through the center of the longest dimension of the wedge.
Overkill338
M-Tronicly Obsessed
That's a great idea. I've always thought it's ridiculous what they charge for plastic wedges. I think I'll use my 241 and go make a pile of wedges lol
Trying a few things to use in the field. Metalworking files are slow and clog up. A Surform works, is compact to carry, but is slow. A sharp block place worked OK, once any big pieces were cut off with a fine tooth saw (coping saw, hacksaw, Japanese woodworking saw, etc.).
Trying a couple of 'curved tooth' files (they go by various names: 'babbit file', 'fitter's file', 'auto body filler file', etc.) which seem to shave off the plastic, rather than scrape it, and cut faster than any metal files I had (those dirty 'bastards'!) without filling up. About $20 each on Amazon.
Philbert
Trying a couple of 'curved tooth' files (they go by various names: 'babbit file', 'fitter's file', 'auto body filler file', etc.) which seem to shave off the plastic, rather than scrape it, and cut faster than any metal files I had (those dirty 'bastards'!) without filling up. About $20 each on Amazon.
Philbert
I was hoping this thread was going to address refurbing steel splitting wedges. People don't realize how dangerous they are after starting to mushroom. Another good one nonetheless, Philbert.
One observation, though. For me, any wedge that has broken vs. getting in the way of a chain should get tossed. I noticed what appeared to be pieces broken off of a couple of the wedges you ultimately refurb'd. That indicates material too brittle for the task..., especially for felling when you're whackin' on it with lots of force. They can shatter and have shards embedded in you before you can even blink. Not that I think you have any serious felling in store for these refurbs. But brittle is brittle just the same. I've seen this happen and it took a few minutes for it to actually sink in. Fortunately there were no injuries to anyone.
Better to be overly cautious about a questionable one than trying to squeeze any additional use out of it.
One observation, though. For me, any wedge that has broken vs. getting in the way of a chain should get tossed. I noticed what appeared to be pieces broken off of a couple of the wedges you ultimately refurb'd. That indicates material too brittle for the task..., especially for felling when you're whackin' on it with lots of force. They can shatter and have shards embedded in you before you can even blink. Not that I think you have any serious felling in store for these refurbs. But brittle is brittle just the same. I've seen this happen and it took a few minutes for it to actually sink in. Fortunately there were no injuries to anyone.
Better to be overly cautious about a questionable one than trying to squeeze any additional use out of it.
Different thread. Mine are on Page #2.
Maintain your splitting wedges !
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/maintain-your-splitting-wedges.310138/
Example of a cheap, box store, plastic wedge that shattered on the first tree; next to an identical one, purchased at the same time.
If there is just a piece beat out of it by hammering, I round it over; usually due to misplaced blows than by material issues.
Philbert
Thanks for the link. You've acquired a nice set over the years. Can't have too many, now can we? LOL
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One of my favorite pick-up lines.....
Better than offering to check for ticks?
Philbert
Philbert
I have hit a few, when working in tight quarters. I don't really agree with your observation. I have found that I could only tell if I was hitting the wedge was by the lovely yellow plastic slivers coming out of the saw. Naturally, anytime you encounter resistance on the tip or top of the bar, there is potential for loss of control.
Of course, this is why we use plastic wedges to begin with. Steel wedges would be preferable in almost all uses except that it trashes a chain.
You would be surprised how well that line works in ,tick, infested areas, heck I have been asked to check for them...
Sometimes, you need to take a break from filing chains . . .
Philbert
Philbert
I use an axe to “dress” them, personally, but I like the idea of using a rasp/file or a sander instead.
