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I use an axe to “dress” them, personally, but I like the idea of using a rasp/file or a sander instead.
About 10 posts (and 2 years ago!) I mentioned my 'epiphany' (don't worry: I had it treated): that I had been using files and rasps designed for cutting metal or wood to shave this ABS type plastic. Looked at some auto body files, hoof rasps, etc. Really happy with the 'Bahco 10-Inch FM10 File Master' - about $20 on Amazon (price fluctuates). It is like the difference between cutting with a sharp versus dull chain (!). Really helps to hold them solid in a vise.

The sander works, but you need to do 2 things for best results: 1) Sand at a slower speed, if you can, because it heats up and melts the plastic. You can sort of manage the melting by sanding into the wedge for a smooth, final finish. 2) Sand outside, if you can, to avoid exposure to the plastic 'fumes'.

Philbert
 
About 10 posts (and 2 years ago!) I mentioned my 'epiphany' (don't worry: I had it treated): that I had been using files and rasps designed for cutting metal or wood to shave this ABS type plastic. Looked at some auto body files, hoof rasps, etc. Really happy with the 'Bahco 10-Inch FM10 File Master' - about $20 on Amazon (price fluctuates). It is like the difference between cutting with a sharp versus dull chain (!). Really helps to hold them solid in a vise.

The sander works, but you need to do 2 things for best results: 1) Sand at a slower speed, if you can, because it heats up and melts the plastic. You can sort of manage the melting by sanding into the wedge for a smooth, final finish. 2) Sand outside, if you can, to avoid exposure to the plastic 'fumes'.

Philbert
I have been using a drywall planer for this, works well!!
 
This is the best tool I have found. Cheap, doesn't plug up like my rasps, yet leaves a smooth surface & removes material relatively fast.
I haven't tried philberts chosen rasp type yet.
doesn't heat it like my belt sander, and I can use it in the field on wood wedges as well.
I find the saw marks keep field cut wood wedges from working well in felling cuts, and this removes those marks pretty fast & easy.
 

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Great idea. I will try to remember to get the ones out of the trailer and tell the guys to save them.
 
This is the best tool I have found.
Tried those too, and ‘they work’. So do the ‘four-in-hand’ rasps that are super easy to carry.

But they scratch / scrape the plastic more than shaving it.

The curved tool file I referenced, works very well, and is a very good deal on Amazon. I have not tried any of the “flexible“ curved tooth files used for auto body work, but they may work as well.

Philbert
 
Looks like I am gonna try those files!!
Just ordered a couple:)
Also ordered a huge pack of trailer house leveling wedges made of oak, I am curious how they perform as bucking/felling wedges.
$18 for 24 of them the size of chainsaw wedges.
 
Why not make them out of hard wood limbs. When I come onto some good limbs I cut about a dozen. If I really like them I take them back to the shop and tune them up with a grinder. Thanks
I need a tutorial Ted: a few guys have mentioned cutting them in the field. How do you cut them to get good grain orientation? Just limbs, or from larger diameter wood too?

Thanks.

Philbert
 
I choose Pine limbs or Oak limbs that are not super dry. Full green works well. I most often look for limbs that are attached to tree then the cutting process is easy because the tree is already holding your wedge. chose an angle and cut. Then turn the saw opposite from the angle that was just cut. On second cut try to aim directly in the middle of previous cut. When OP is satisfied with angle and general shape a trimming of the top and bottom can be trimmed with saw. The top and bottom trimming will be the sides of the wedge if OP wants the wedge to be square. When satisfied with shape measure about six to ten inches from tip and cut off from limb and you have a wedge. I will take some pics with a more detailed step by step process. Thanks
 
Tried a New File

While looking for these curved tooth files, 'auto body filler' files came up occasionally, so I tried one that I found on eBay. There might be different sizes and levels of tooth coarseness available. This one worked, but not as well as the Bacho file mentioned earlier.
IMG_0673.jpg

This shows the autobody file (center) between the Nicholson (top) and Bacho (bottom) files:
IMG_0677.jpg

Also, keep a toothbrush (or something similar) handy, as the plastic fills up the files quickly.
IMG_0794.jpg

And ('Pro-Tip'): don't wear fleece while filing - the static electricity will make you look like a speckled wedge very quickly.

Philbert
 
You can just walk up to a limb hanging out from a log with chain saw and make two tapered cuts to make a wedge.
We make felling wedges anywhere when running chainsaws out of any available wood, prefer hardwoods but don`t matter much.
Tried to Google this for some videos or illustrations. Found guys casting aluminum wedges out of beverage cans (!), and another guy melting down plastic milk jugs (probably too soft). Also, lots of guys cutting them on table saws and bandsaws. Only found one photo of using a chainsaw (from another forum; not sure if I can post the link). This guy uses a small diameter tree instead of a limb:
Screen shot 2020-12-30 at 10.17.35 PM.png

I assume that a cut parallel with the long axis of the wedge would produce a smoother face, which would be easier to drive.

Philbert
 
Tried to Google this for some videos or illustrations. Found guys casting aluminum wedges out of beverage cans (!), and another guy melting down plastic milk jugs (probably too soft). Also, lots of guys cutting them on table saws and band saws. Only found one photo of using a chainsaw (from another forum; not sure if I can post the link). This guy uses a small diameter tree instead of a limb:
View attachment 878981

I assume that a cut parallel with the long axis of the wedge would produce a smoother face, which would be easier to drive.

Philbert
We make them on the spot here, that way works fine but it can be done any way one can think of and they will all work. I f they split/splinter just leave them where they drop. From a standing tree trunk, downed trunk, limb sticking out from a felled tree , ripped cross grain or cut like when noodling the resulting wedge all works fine, not made with intentions to last and are composable after use. I only carry 4 dedicated orange plastic wedges, most times they stay in the kit bag as I dislike dragging them around with me, the wood wedges and a felling lever will topple most of the stuff I cut here. In my early days of woods work there were aluminum wedges available, my dad had a few but the got beat to death and forgotten, sold by Oregon I think.
 
Tried to Google this for some videos or illustrations. Found guys casting aluminum wedges out of beverage cans (!), and another guy melting down plastic milk jugs (probably too soft). Also, lots of guys cutting them on table saws and bandsaws. Only found one photo of using a chainsaw (from another forum; not sure if I can post the link). This guy uses a small diameter tree instead of a limb:
View attachment 878981

I assume that a cut parallel with the long axis of the wedge would produce a smoother face, which would be easier to drive.

Philbert
That system does not work well. One can only use limbs and must be cut semi parallel to grain going length wise. The wedge pictured has a very poor angle. A good limb produces a very tough wedge that can be used in extreme conditions. Thanks
 
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