bitzer
******** Timber Expert
So you have to cut them out then? In that instance the bottom two wedges did nothing. If the wood alongside them doesn't break, wheres the lift?Here's that tree/stump
So you have to cut them out then? In that instance the bottom two wedges did nothing. If the wood alongside them doesn't break, wheres the lift?Here's that tree/stump
Its fun to do **** the hard way sometimes.this was a tough and rough day at 100degs. with 70% humidity... no power with the hyd for the lift to roll an pile logs except old man power? kinda got a good feel for the ole timers and their toils with tough conditions.... we are so lucky today !lol
Didn't have much backlean, didn't need much lift. Tree was used, to photograph the method, in the absence of a convenient heavy leaner.So you have to cut them out then? In that instance the bottom two wedges did nothing. If the wood alongside them doesn't break, wheres the lift?
why is it, we always see these examples used on pecker poles? if its so great, why don't we see pics of it on big stems?
Hmmm, I double dare Gypo Logger. Extra points for multiple wedge stacks.why is it, we always see these examples used on pecker poles? if its so great, why don't we see pics of it on big stems?
very likelyBecause it would be a disaster?
ha ha haHmmm, I double dare Gyppo Logger. Extra points for multiple wedge stacks.
why is it, we always see these examples used on pecker poles? if its so great, why don't we see pics of it on big stems?
Rather than just knocking the method I'm just looking at the pluses & minuses of it, the pluses are you need to carry & use less wedges, they are less likely to fly out, they can't be driven skewif because they're captivated in a slot, there is less chance of the tree sitting back down & breaking the hinge.Well you don't stack wedges without another wedge making room. And yes they sometimes do pop out, but not with any king of bone smashing force, maybe a bruise, but bruises we're used too. When they do pop out there is the other set of wedges already tightened up, they really only pop out when getting started.
Bore cutting is inherently dangerous, anytime you use the tip you risk a kick back, kick backs can maim or kill, so how the **** is that safer?
Not to mention boring into it you don't really know how far you've gone so you could be cutting away the all important hinge wood without even knowing it. or worse you haven't gone deep enough and the wedges will stall out and you spend an hour trying to move a tree with wedges that can't go anywhere.
Also when exactly are you supposed to start this stacking, cause I'd like to see these yahoos try and bore under a started wedge, or better yet get 2 going and make a third hole. I carry extra bars in the Crummy, and extra saws, but I don't carry that many of them.
Rather than just knocking the method I'm just looking at the pluses & minuses of it, the pluses are you need to carry & use less wedges, they are less likely to fly out, they can't be driven skewif because they're captivated in a slot, there is less chance of the tree sitting back down & breaking the hinge.
The minuses are you have to do another couple of bore cuts of adequate depth that an experienced faller should be capable of doing repeatedly, you have to be able to gauge how much lift is needed before starting as another bore cut once loaded is not an option, training experienced fellers in a different method.
Fanks
like most things SSD/GOL related its unnecessarily complicated and wastes even more precious time.
I'm only going off the posted pictures & explainations of backing up doubled up wedges which means an equal amount in reserve to stop the tree sitting back & possibly breaking the hinge. Plastic wedges aren't much good for lifting anything heavy anyway & with our HWDs they are as useless as an ashtray on a motorbike, that method with a single wedge is the recommended way to get small poles down against the lean. So far on the surface I'm seeing more positives than negatives.How exactly do you have to carry less wedges around? Three pretty much gets the job done. One to open, two to stack. Unless its big timber. When stacking wedges the entire taper of the wedge has contact with the tree. With the bored stack only a very small amount of wood is touching the wedge. Think about it. The wedge is being driven straight. It would be like sandwiching a wedge between 2x4s. How much of the wedge (which is supporting enormous pressure) is actually contacting the wood ? Wedges have a taper for a reason and this method is negating that. Thats aside from the fact it is a ridiculous waste of time. Trying to re-invent the wheel.
So do you use metal falling wedges? Like the maggys? We've already been over how hard your hardwoods are. If a tree is cut up properly and a person is not trying to defy an insurmountable lean the basics of wedging apply to any tree. Its essentially replacing material you have removed by cutting as well as adding material to correct the lean of the tree until it tips. Making multiple kerfs below the back cut is removing more material that needs to be replaced. Therby making more work for the wedger. Hence the wedgie has the advantage and he has been known to kill.I'm only going off the posted pictures & explainations of backing up doubled up wedges which means an equal amount in reserve to stop the tree sitting back & possibly breaking the hinge. Plastic wedges aren't much good for lifting anything heavy anyway & with our HWDs they are as useless as an ashtray on a motorbike, that method with a single wedge is the recommended way to get small poles down against the lean. So far on the surface I'm seeing more positives than negatives.
Ta
What is meant by SSD and GOL? Research was not helpful.
I'm only going off the posted pictures & explainations of backing up doubled up wedges which means an equal amount in reserve to stop the tree sitting back & possibly breaking the hinge. Plastic wedges aren't much good for lifting anything heavy anyway & with our HWDs they are as useless as an ashtray on a motorbike, that method with a single wedge is the recommended way to get small poles down against the lean. So far on the surface I'm seeing more positives than negatives.
Ta
How exactly do you have to carry less wedges around? Three pretty much gets the job done. One to open, two to stack. Unless its big timber. When stacking wedges the entire taper of the wedge has contact with the tree. With the bored stack only a very small amount of wood is touching the wedge. Think about it. The wedge is being driven straight. It would be like sandwiching a wedge between 2x4s. How much of the wedge (which is supporting enormous pressure) is actually contacting the wood ? Wedges have a taper for a reason and this method is negating that. Thats aside from the fact it is a ridiculous waste of time. Trying to re-invent the wheel.
SSD=Swedish Stump Dance