What is the all time best chainsaw

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A cs680 Better run a whole lot better then a cs670, fricken turd of turds and heavy as hell, would put a 24" bar on one if it was the last saw on planet earth.
Haha, I’ve got 670 also. Also used it commercially alongside two 044’s. It’s been through it and is semi retired but still runs great. It was the last of four saws left standing. The 680 is slightly better. Not a hot rod but I ran a tank through the 680 the other day after running my 372, and I am still pleased with it. I guess I’m just not as sensitive as many about turds.
 
So easy as say a 038? No autotune/electronics BS? Just a Hi/Lo on the carb.
the electronics rarely give anymore issues then electronic ignition did over points systems. I find many of the newer series easier or similar to work on.
I’m a Toyota loyalist, and loved my 14 Tundra but I switched over when I recently traded in.
I like toyota in general, other then their rust issues. (Who doesn't have that issue?) But the new trucks haven't been great so far, and from my uncles the quality has gone down with the cars too. Defiantly not the camry of the past.
Haha, I’ve got 670 also. Also used it commercially alongside two 044’s. It’s been through it and is semi retired but still runs great. It was the last of four saws left standing. The 680 is slightly better. Not a hot rod but I ran a tank through the 680 the other day after running my 372, and I am still pleased with it. I guess I’m just not as sensitive as many about turds.
Neighbor has a 590 and 670, I'd wouldn't want to enter production with either. Both fine saws, there been reliable for him. Just heavy and slow. Not something I'd want in the woods all day given there are better options. Heck my old 562xp would run with the 670.
 
the electronics rarely give anymore issues then electronic ignition did over points systems. I find many of the newer series easier or similar to work on.

I like toyota in general, other then their rust issues. (Who doesn't have that issue?) But the new trucks haven't been great so far, and from my uncles the quality has gone down with the cars too. Defiantly not the camry of the past.

Neighbor has a 590 and 670, I'd wouldn't want to enter production with either. Both fine saws, there been reliable for him. Just heavy and slow. Not something I'd want in the woods all day given there are better options. Heck my old 562xp would run with the 670.
As far as Toyota, I still like them. I am actually way more impressed with the new Camry. My sister has an XSE, it’s practically a Lexus. Not crazy about the Tundras though.

I’ve cut with the 680 along side a ms362, and it’s slower and heavier up to about 18” live oak. Then the 362 falls way behind. So do the 590’s/620’s when the wood gets big. They all feel like a better rig than the 680 until they reach their capacity.
 
362 is a turd of a saw. If you get the opportunity run a 562xp or a ms400. Both run better then their displacement suggests.
Running a 400C for a day made me try to justify any reason I possibly could to buy one. It's not even in the same ballpark as the 362 or the 590. The 400 IMO is what the 362 should've been from the get go
 
Lots of companies starting off these days are overnight arborists. One of the biggest outfits where I’m at had me doing their tree work 3 years ago, didn’t know which end of a chainsaw to hold onto. Like you said, name on their truck, steady learning. Hurricanes got businesses booming. In my opinion, takes lots of years and mistakes to be a real arborist.
LuDookie,

In the arborist learning curve, I'm sure you would also agree with me on the need for working on one's knowledge of tree species, parasites, predators, worms, hard or soft, identifying, and use all that in the tree care vs tree removal side of business too.
 
Running a 400C for a day made me try to justify any reason I possibly could to buy one. It's not even in the same ballpark as the 362 or the 590. The 400 IMO is what the 362 should've been from the get go
I bought mine out of necessity during covid. Just what happened to be in the shelf when I needed a carb for my 562xp. (Not that you could get parts for anything at that time.) Very impressive saw. Been my go to saw ever since for general saw work.
 
I bought mine out of necessity during covid. Just what happened to be in the shelf when I needed a carb for my 562xp. (Not that you could get parts for anything at that time.) Very impressive saw. Been my go to saw ever since for general saw work.
If I were a pro running saws day in and day out, I'd for sure have one in my arsenal. Since I mostly just cut a lot of firewood, I can't justify the $1100 price tag for one when I already have a similar size saw in my 590. My 590 has served me fine and it'll probably continue to do so for many years, but when it does kick the bucket I'll be running to find a 400 to replace it
 
Never cut a tree with a swell butt :thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:.
But I have cut a 50+" tree with a 24", or was it a stihl "25" lol.
Today's bigazz maple
500i with the 36. Shredding! Doesn't get much softer than this rotten s h i t though!
 

Attachments

  • 20240819_115742.jpg
    20240819_115742.jpg
    2.6 MB
  • 20240819_121343.jpg
    20240819_121343.jpg
    4.2 MB
  • 20240819_121540.jpg
    20240819_121540.jpg
    3.9 MB
Just to put this into proper perspective...there is no single saw answer for this question, simply too may variables...humorous or sad to see us bicker about "turds" and "this smokin that" when in reality the best saw of all time is the saw you ran on the best wood cutting day of your life.
 
Mtronic is a solenoid and wiring harness. It's hardly complicated.
At.this point I won't on a non Mtronic or Autotune saw.

Right, which is all fine and good.

When they run, they run smooth - I agree.
Until you get an issue with these saws.

How to diagnose it, you follow the correct steps to fix, and it still won't run correctly.

Is it the carburator? - You can't buy these non OEM - huge factor/huge price
Is it the solenoid - ok try it, it's not cheap or crazy expensive, but you have to replace it, it might be it.
Is it the wire or harness - Ok these are cheap - but rarely the issue.
Is it the ignition module? - if so, you are out of luck and have to pay 1/3 the price of a new saw (atleast here in EU) - try your luck......

If this doesn't work - you have to go back, did you overtightned the solonoid scews, or is it just the fact you can't reset the ignition module to factory settting or update it via Stihls mtronic program....the list of "maybe it's ..." goes on forever, which is NOT the case on a non Mtronic/Auto tune saw.

I loved my Stihl MS261 Mtronic, it ran so good, untill it didn't - and I was lucky to have Stihl repair it, free of charge (it was an early model 2014, fixed free of charge in 2022 by Stihl).
It came back to me with a 32 page book of diagnostic and repair/replacement on the ignition module and solenoid.

This is where I decided to sell it, and replace it with an MS261 non Mtronic.

I ain't about to give up my rights to selfrepair, not now, not ever.
No matter how nice "auto" carburator setting is.

:popcorn2:
 
Approaching the question from this angle, if I could only have one saw, in my entire life, to use for everything, it would be the pre auto carb MS 362. With patience and a sharp chain it can do everything from felling, limbing, and bucking. It’s light enough to use all day but heavy enough to handle big wood. Wild fire and trail maintenance crews carry them. With a 25” bar it’s the closest thing to an all in one saw for me and has never let me down. The 400 wouldn't be a bad choice either.

POWERHEAD WEIGHT12.3 lbs.
GUIDE BAR LENGTH (Recommended)20 in.
OILOMATIC® CHAIN3/8" RS3
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY11 oz.
ENGINE POWER4.6 bhp
FUEL CAPACITY20.3 oz.
DISPLACEMENT59.0 cc
 

Latest posts

Back
Top