What older model chainsaw has the most durable engine?

[stihltech]

051.

 

[david_fillman]

David,

@david_fillman
I wonder how many folks know what saw that is in your avatar. I have it's twin, brothers, and cousins, Great saws.

Bill

HI Bill,

I was a dealer for US Motor Power before they went belly up so a West Bend 820 powered saw was an easy choice for me. Fortunately https://www.powerbeeengine.com/ has started limited production of these engines again. I am helping Ryan with flow bench and dyno work. My son and I have 3 of them.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Old post but whatever.

288xp is reliable.

My first ever "pro" saw was a 288xp, purchased well used, in 2007. I have never done anything to the carb or fuel lines and it still runs great.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I also noted original poster asked about most reliable engine, not saw.

Sadly, good saws can be hamstrung by bad carbs, bad oilers, other bad parts which give the saw a bad name.

A saw is a machine with a lot of parts working together - a saw is only as good as the weakest link.
For instance, I recently had an otherwise dependable saw crap out because of a $0.15 check valve in the carb. I didn't know how to find or repair it and I damaged the carb trying to fix it.

One thing I have noted is that I prefer Tillotson carbs, personally, then Walbro, then Zama in that order, and I don't like Zama.

 

[Bill G]

Old post but whatever.

288xp is reliable

Many consider it to be one of the best Husky made but opinions will differ

 

[Sidecarflip]

All good so long as you run the correct oil to gas mixture and remember to drain the weasel pee ethanol gas out of them and run them dry and fog the cylinder with fogging oil when in storage for a prolonged time. Not applicable if using canned gas like Red Armor however. Of course that don't applly to ancient 4 stroke saws other than draining the gas, fogging the cylinder before storage....

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Point well made. A saw that sits is in for trouble.
I run around and start mine all the time, just to hear the noise they make.
Keeps em well loved.

 

[adedeluca]

View attachment 1081048View attachment 1081049

Homelite xl 12 is one tough chainsaw

 

[Sidecarflip]

Just had my 45 year old Stihl 028 AV out for a spin on a maple stump I needed to shorten a bit so I can grind it off. I have not fired it all summer and 3 pulls and off to the races. I keep thinking about crank seals but so far it's just peachy. Kudo's to canned Red Armor fuel. Lots of hours on it as well. It started life back when I had a tree removal company back in Ohio and back then it was my 'go to' saw for removing limbs on the ground prior to chipping.

One of my buddies was with me and quipped 'that is a sweet running saw' to which I replied, it's older than you are. Way back when (don't exactly remember when), I breathed on it a bit and did the usual muffler open up but that was it.

 

[MPF]

The XL12 and the Super XL have to be considered in this discussion; almost bulletproof and maybe the most copied design of all time. Also the Stihl 070, based heavily on the Contra which was introduced in '59, and still being produced as of a couple of years ago (maybe still?)

One drawback to the super XL is that for left handed folks it's ergonomics are irritating. In this right handed world, my Stihl shines for lefties

 

[Exophysical]

I have a Husqvarna 51 with a 61 jug and piston in it. It was a really snazzy little saw that could seriously rip logs up to 16 inches…..but I hated and I mean HATED the place that they put the exhaust outlet. It melted the chain brake and the top of the clutch cover. And the muffler mounting bolts would constantly break from the heat. I’d be sawing like everything was just fine and dandy and then the front of the muffler would just fly off. I sadly finally got sick of constantly replacing those parts and now it is in my junk saw pile with a bunch of old 36 & 38cc garbage box store Poulans. I might rebuild that saw and put on a clutch cover without a chain brake…or if it’s possible to acquire an older clutch cover with a metal chain brake handle, that would help a bunch.

I'll give you that, the exhaust port on the 50 through 55 is pretty stupid. I always cut a gill slit ahead of the split, due to the baffle around the exhaust port I it gives most of the exhaust an alternative route. Maybe not vintage enough for this thread, but other than the exhaust port I think those saws are a great candidate for simple, tough saws that put wood on the truck for a long time.

I think the beauty of the 50 and 61 is that while they were built with the same quality as pro saws, through much of their run they were marketed as more of homeowner saws. So you had the same build quality, running a bit less performance, and generally not getting used as hard.

 

[North by Northwest]

Other than the lack of an effective a.v. system my Pioneers still run well & cut effectively the P-51 & P-20 & 11-60 get annual cutting sessions . Dominator @ 50:1 for 10 yrs until last fall when I switched to Red Armor .