What Saw do I need to cut this Huge Oak Tree?

[slowp]

Beware of "Always".

This is an example of when things go bad while starting from the top and working towards the butt/rootwad on a blowdown. When I drove by in the morning, firewood cutters were working on it. When I came back by in the afternoon, they were gone and this was left.

I checked for blood and found none. It must have been a bit exciting. But this won't "always" happen. It did on this tree because they didn't understand the forces under pressure, and there's a lot of dirt near the rootwad. Walk around and look and think before cutting.

 

[woodfarmer]

I have a 500i and 32” bar. These trees were no where as big, the ash maybe 30” or so. I wouldn’t hesitate to go at the Oak with my saw. I never touch the top until I have the tree clear of the root ball. I seem to get a few of these every year. We seem to get more frequent wind storms here in southern Ontario than we used to.

 

[Husky77]

take your time, plan every cut and its reaction, keep the chain sharp and saw tuned. take wedges and have them ready, stay safe & have fun. And post some more pics if you can

 

[sawfun]

they made a lot of money off of this vidja. it is up over 18m views

Id like to see that guy run a 7-29, 990g, or 797g and the like, with a 72" bar and 1/2" chisel chain. Then the video may be able to post "most powerful". Yuppies with 880's & 881's haven't a clue, just a nice wallet.

 

[sawfun]

I have watched many of their videos.....not sure why

Big saws get our attention Bill.

 

[Bill G]

Id like to see that guy run a 7-29, 990g, or 797g and the like, with a 72" bar and 1/2" chisel chain. Then the video may be able to post "most powerful". Yuppies with 880's & 881's haven't a clue, just a nice wallet.

I fully agree...

 

[Bill G]

Big saws get our attention Bill.

Honestly all joking aside that is what got my attention in the first place. I then saw how stupid they acted and watched a few more hoping it got better....it did not....

 

[ClimberBusinessman]

Might as well get an ms881, if you can find one (there hard to come by with the shortages on everything), while you're at it. You really only need three types of saws, a 12-16" tophandle, a 20-24" regular saw for ground work, and a saw with a larger, 41-59" bar like the MS881 for general tree work. If you wanted to get a 36" saw, the ECHO 7310P has the same if not better quality than Stihl, and a really good warranty (better than Stihl), and is available online.

You might possibly get by with a smaller saw and just run a bigger bar on it than recommended, but you might have trouble with that approach, especially with keeping it oiled, and the friction from the contact with the chain with the bar might be enough to stall out the saw when you run way longer bar lengths than recommended.

 

[Elwellboy]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

I’ve got a Super Pro 125 ith a 36” bar. That would do the trick

 

[jcquade]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

Curious what saw did you buy and how did it work out?

 

[GrizG]

I will ask my wife to pose with her Stihl electric 10 inch bar in a wet T shirt and see if we can generate some cash!

Depending on the wife, you might be eating that 10" saw.

 

[computeruser]

Stuff like that is where the 100cc+ saws make sense. You can do it with less, but holy crap is it tedious if you’re blocking at 16” intervals for firewood.

Even moving the cut rounds is gonna be a task. Having done it, it is annoying as hell even with a skid steer to upend the rounds so you can quarter them and make the chunks moveable.

 

[Seachaser]

Stuff like that is where the 100cc+ saws make sense. You can do it with less, but holy crap is it tedious if you’re blocking at 16” intervals for firewood.

Even moving the cut rounds is gonna be a task. Having done it, it is annoying as hell even with a skid steer to upend the rounds so you can quarter them and make the chunks moveable.

Update? I’ve had to tackle three big blow downs from storms before. They’re not fun. A couple, I could walk under without bending over.

 

[junglejohnny28]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

I would use my 661 or 395 on it ,but if I only had 461 I would put a 32” on it and I wood cut a clean 60” clear with that saw and bar . Just take time and keep well oiled .just my opinion , it is a great excuse to by another saw thou !

 

[xraydaniel]

Big saws…..

 

[Okie]

Double bit chopping axe. Sharp on one side. Use the dull side when close to the ground.

 

[SteveInOregon]

I ran across this huge oak blow-down yesterday, and I need some help deciding on what I need to cut it out of the road. At a minimum, the trunk portion has to be cleared. I currently have a MS462 with a 25" bar, but I don't think it will begin to touch this tree because of its size (the branches maybe.....LOL).

For comparison purposes, I am about 6 ft tall in these boots. I didn't measure the tree, but I estimate it to be 65+ inches in diameter. I admit I am a little out of my comfort zone cutting this tree. The largest I have bucked has been about 43" in diameter. What saw do I need? Stihl is my only consideration. Would the MS661 with a 36" bar do the trick?

Please give me your thoughts. Thanks!

Same saw you already have with longer bar .

 

[Okie]

you could do it with a 28” bar just line up your cuts. Bring some wedges.

I did not read all 4 pages but:

I would think about:
Having a good helper along. (someone that knows what to do if something goes wrong)
Bring a extra saw and some wedges.

Maybe if it's a solid tree of correct species ask if a logger would be interested.
One that big if solid would bring a pretty penny to a nearby logger in this area.

 

[056kid]

you could do it with a 28” bar just line up your cuts. Bring some wedges.

Wedges are for falling timber.

 

[rwoods]

When you buck like me wedges come in handy if you use them.


Last April I actually had wedges in my back pocket but didn't use them to prevent this (both saws stuck) nor to extract the saws. I thought the cut were deep enough that the sections would snap off when I lifted the middle section with the tractor for loading. The Stihl end did. The MAC end didn't. I tried to break it off but accidentally hit the ground with the MAC, splitting the case from the bar studs all the way to and through the crank bearing surface. I bought that saw new over 40 years ago. It hurt more than just my pride.

Ron