What saw for trail clearing

[Brushwacker]

If you are buying new I would first consider an ms280 with 18 or 20 inch bar whichever feels better to you as far as comfort when using. If a little more weight and $ is not an issue take the 361 with 20" bar. MS 260 would do a very good job also close to the 280 but slightly less power.
Some older models if you buy used I'd go for : 034,036 (great power to weight ratio ), 028. Most of Stihl models you should pop of the air cleaner cover and lightly tap the air cleaner to dislodge the sawdust accumulation on the filter now and then to keep it breathing efficiently. I would trust those Stihl models above most any other saws for reliability,well worth the extra attention the air cleaner should have.
Other then those I would be tempted to try the Dolmar 5100 if I had a good parts stocking dealer.

 

[MikeInParadise]

:greenchainsaw: - forget the 026/260, even though I sort of like them - they just are outcut, and outperformed, a long time ago........

And yet they do the job,


day after day,
day after day,
day after day,
day after day,
day after day,
day after day,
day after day,

Week after week,
Week after week,
Week after week,
Week after week,

Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,
Month after month,

Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,
Year after year,

Go figure!!!!!

I mean who would want one of those????

Oh and you can actually find a local dealer and get parts for them!

Happy Boxing Day

 

[ropensaddle]

Just go all out and make a 14-16ft. line through the forest with a D11R.:jawdrop: :jawdrop: :jawdrop:


All jokes aside the 260 should do you well, the 361 is a real treat.

Depending on the ground a six is better suited for trails less
easy to get stuck and winch will get it out if it does

 

[Stihl here]

026/ms260 awesome choice!!!!

I really get a kick out of how often the old stihl 026 design saw gets mentioned here even tho some feel it is so outdated. Truth is the 026 is a saw that will do a wide variety of cuting needs for alot of users for the most part and you can't say they are not a reliable saw because they just run and run and run and you can beat the snot out of them and just put more gas in it and run it some more. one of the all time great 50cc saws of all time!!! Awesome!!!!

 

[RipRap]

Our boy Scout Troop adopted a section of the north country trail and we are responsible forkeeping the trail clear. Our scoutmasterhas a stihl ms210 that we use but i would like to get something with a little more power and something that will pull a 20" bar. We are usually cutting stuff between 6-12 inches but seem to always come across lareger stuff, once we came across a 23 inch cherry and a 25 inch ash, we were able to cut it with the small bar but it would have been easier with a longer bar.

So the question is what saw would u recommend, preferably a stihl and something that is fairly light as the section we have is roughly 16 miles and somewhat rough terrain in places

I'm starting my 6th year as the overseer for the RipRap Trail in the Shenandoah National Park. Since both my trails are in federally designated wilderness areas, I am not allowed to use gasoline powered chainsaws or brushcutters, only handsaws. At first I used a 24" Corona along with a pair of 1" hand prunners. But I switched to a Silky Sugoi when that first came on the market, it's an amazing tool. The largest blowdowns I've encountered have been a couple 27"-29", which take me about 3+ hours to cut and remove by myself. The hard part is rolling it off the side of the trails once they've been cut. They are quite heavy for a man to move, but the bears have NO PROBLEM rolling them back onto the trails...... happens all the time.

Anyways, we also have two-man saws that are easily carried, light-weight and can cut through the big stuff very quickly. As you say, most of what you encounter is less than 12", which will take 1-person about 6-8 minutes each cut. I maintain over 5-miles of trail by myself and it is my opinion that there is no need of a "troop" carrying a 10lb+ chainsaw, oil, and extra fuel, when most of the time for trail work you only need 13" Corona's, hand prunners, a small hatchett, a couple wedges and a couple sling blades, McLeod's, Pulaski's or fire rakes for the waterbars.

However, you ask which Stihl would I recommend to carry. I have a rear handled MS200 which has a 16" bar, lightweight and plenty of power. Just remember that after a long day of trail work in the mountains, that 13+lbs of chainsaw gear can be heavy AND can hurt you mighty quick.

Happy Trails!

 

[mbopp]

I also volunteer to clear trails at a Scout camp. I started out lugging a Homelite Zip years ago, then a Pro Mac 655, last year I got a Shin 488 w/ an 18" bar. I wanted something lighter than the Mac, if it takes me a few minutes longer to make the cut I'll trade that for the lighter weight. The biggest trees I've done were some 24" white pines. There is one other guy I cut with who has an 026 Stihl & it works out good for him.

I've taken to using canola oil as bar oil since the trails we do are in lake country. I carry bar oil in a dish detergent squeeze bottle & gas mix in Nalgene or MSR fuel bottles. I don't carry a spare chain but I do have an Oregon file guide in my pack. I've been using semi chisel chain, it's not as fast but it's easier to file in the field. And I made myself a 2" wide nylon sling to carry the saw with, it takes some of the load off my arms while hiking.

 

[slowp]

All Scouts need to have a 660 or at least a 7900 on hand for those pesky woodland chores.......:greenchainsaw:

But for reality ....+1...what they said.....

And a big bar....Actually, I like a big bar for trail work because it is balanced better for carrying on one's shoulder, and you can hang your modified gas/oil containers off the bar thus leaving one's hand empty for carrying an axe, or beer/pop. A backpack adjusted properly supports the sawhead when doing the shoulder carry. I packed Old Sparkless around last year and oh no the power is going off again it was off all last night. We got snow bye please. Power back on. Anyway, since Old Sparkless weighs the same as a newer, more powerful saw, I choose to carry one of the same weight and go with Fluffy/Twinkle the 440s. Use the modified camping pad to pad the bar and you got it made. The little scouties will be clamoring to carry the saw.

 

[romeo]

Scouts? Clearing Trails?


You guys need a 4' Tuatahi working M-tooth crosscut.

 

[2dogs]

Palogger greetings from another scouter! I'm the Scoutmaster of Troop 674 here in Collyfornia. Our troop specialises in forestry projects as advancement projects, maintaining two scout camps, and assisting the City of Santa Cruz in its forestry/environmental project. We have taken down 6' dbh fir trees in the Sierras and used hand pruners to cut broom, and everything in between. We have hauled the company chipper to some scout projects and the Lucas mill to others.

Safety is your number one priority and scouts must never use a chainsaw or chipper. Beyond that any adult must be proficient and safe with a saw. Most are not, they are mearly hackers. We try to use hand tools when ever possible so the scouts have a better experience than just dragging brush. We are fortunate to have a large forestry tool cache (that my son and I maintain he is the Quartermaster). I include my one man and two man crosscut saws in our cache.

Regarding which saw, as always the dealer you work with is your greatest resource. I would approach your dealer, maybe with a few scouts in tow, and explain what your needs are. He may just have a used 260 or 346 in the back room he would donate to your troop. Maybe it will be an MS250 or the like that will work but would not be your first choice. Remember, a scout is thrifty. If your project is going to be in your local paper make sure they mention your dealer.

Always model good behaviour and safe working practices. Use full PPE and have a logger type first aid kit with you. Work the scouts hard but remember they are kids and will not have your attention span. Involve as many parents as you possible and give a follow up report at your Troop Committee Meeting. When you are at the Boy Scout shop ask about generic outdoors project patches and hand them out after a large project.

Stay in touch with your Commisioner and let them know what your troop is doing, same with your District Executive. The more recognition yoour scouts get the better the projects will become. As the projects get better more publicity will be generated and your dealer will also be recognised more. Then invite him to speak to your scouts and parents. Nothing big, just 5 minutes. Invite him to a Court Of Honor and especially an Eagle Court Of Honor. Have the troop write him a "Thank You" card. This kind of follow up is very important.

Good luck (and don't worry too much about the perfect saw).

 

[Lakeside53]

Get the 260.. or used 026's. It's ligher, and uses less gas - you have to carry the gas and oil ... If you have sherpa or two, get the 361.


2dogs - great post.

 

[ropensaddle]

Dern I guess we turned the scouts into a chain gang
or labor camp are these at risk scouts?

 

[2000ssm6]

Depending on the ground a six is better suited for trails less
easy to get stuck and winch will get it out if it does

LOL, the D11R was a joke. Way to big for the forest. The biggest dozer I have run is a D4H, a D6 would be a real treat.

 

[SCOOTER]

I have about 2 miles of mountain trails I keep up on some land I own. I have a 026, and a 260, for that use, and it's wonderful. Light to carry, and with an 18 inch bar, with a sharp chain, you'll never look back. Sharp chain is the key. I can't admagine u not loving it.

 

[wildbio]

excellent post!

I'm starting my 6th year as the overseer for the RipRap Trail in the Shenandoah National Park. Since both my trails are in federally designated wilderness areas, I am not allowed to use gasoline powered chainsaws or brushcutters, only handsaws. At first I used a 24" Corona along with a pair of 1" hand prunners. But I switched to a Silky Sugoi when that first came on the market, it's an amazing tool. The largest blowdowns I've encountered have been a couple 27"-29", which take me about 3+ hours to cut and remove by myself. The hard part is rolling it off the side of the trails once they've been cut. They are quite heavy for a man to move, but the bears have NO PROBLEM rolling them back onto the trails...... happens all the time.

Anyways, we also have two-man saws that are easily carried, light-weight and can cut through the big stuff very quickly. As you say, most of what you encounter is less than 12", which will take 1-person about 6-8 minutes each cut. I maintain over 5-miles of trail by myself and it is my opinion that there is no need of a "troop" carrying a 10lb+ chainsaw, oil, and extra fuel, when most of the time for trail work you only need 13" Corona's, hand prunners, a small hatchett, a couple wedges and a couple sling blades, McLeod's, Pulaski's or fire rakes for the waterbars.

However, you ask which Stihl would I recommend to carry. I have a rear handled MS200 which has a 16" bar, lightweight and plenty of power. Just remember that after a long day of trail work in the mountains, that 13+lbs of chainsaw gear can be heavy AND can hurt you mighty quick.

Happy Trails!

Excellent advice/input and one of the best postings I've seen!

 

[palogger]

hey 2dogs, don't worry i didn't mean for it to sound like the scouts are running the saws, only our scoutmaster and myself, i'm an assistant scoutmaster, are the only two that run the saws, we are both certified by the USFS and i am a logger so we are not hacks by anymeans , but no offense taken as i know what u mean. and as for the kids getting tired of draggin brush we take hand pruners and hand saws for them to use, so we have a good time, have fun and are always safe, we only break out the chainsaws when we encounter large stuff or stuff difficult to get with hand tools

and i am in no hurry to find a saw, like i said to begin with the scoutmaster has a stihl ms210 that we use whenever we go. i would just like at some point to find one that is a little larger

 

[2dogs]

I didn't mean to say you were not capable of runnng a saw, just other untrained adults. As you know good intentions are no excuse poor unsafe technique. Out here there have been some problems with adults claiming to be experts and then dropping a tree on themself. Most have been older guys-60 years plus. They show up with a POS saw that barely runs and has a dull chain and yet claim to be en expert. You know the type.

My partner and I have dropped 175' tall trees and 6' diameter trees. A work weekend was scheduled so we were asked to come in ahead of time and get the trees on the ground so the less experienced guys could limb and buck the smaller stuff. Another time we used my daughter to drive the 4-wheeler and drag brush so the scouts or parents would not be tempted operate the 4-wheeler. I'm just saying some adults with good intentions should not be allowed to operate anything more complicated than a claw hammer.

Post some pics of your projects if you can. I'd love to share them with my scouts

 

[Jack_Shaft]

My vote goes for the 026/MS260 as well considering that you are already geared up to use a Stihl product and appear to be happy with them.

Anybody suggesting a 361 obviously hasn't had to walk too far in the woods with a saw before; every pound counts.

Yes, the Husky 346XP and Dolmar 5100S are great suggestions as well.

 

[2dogs]

BTW how you haul your saw mix and bar oil is important too. For the road I haul the fuel bottles in a blue pouch with a placard on it (from Forestry Suppliers). Then the botttles go in my wildland gear along with wedges and an axe scabbard (from Madsen's). Some jobs require more stuff so I use slightly different gear. I started out carrying a piggyback can with the helve of a boy's axe stuck through the can's handle using a 12" long piece of pipe insulation as a pad. Here are some links.

http://www.nationalfirefighter.com
http://www.firecache.com/
http://www.thepackshack.com/
http://www.truenorthgear.com/

 

[OLY-JIM]

My vote goes for the 026/MS260 as well considering that you are already geared up to use a Stihl product and appear to be happy with them.

Anybody suggesting a 361 obviously hasn't had to walk too far in the woods with a saw before; every pound counts.

Yes, the Husky 346XP and Dolmar 5100S are great suggestions as well.

On a blind bet...I think that I would be willing to wager money that I've walked further in the woods than you've ever thought about walking. I don't think that I would personally complain about an extra 1.7lbs in saw weight...if I ever started to; I'd probably conclude that I have no business being in the woods. Additionally, he's not walking woods; he's walking trails. The 260 would be a fine choice in his intended applications...no doubt! However, personally I'd take a 361 for added versatility. But, that's just me. There's a thread on this forum that has a pic of a nifty, homemade saw backpack...I'd use something like it and keep my hands free while moving. This is all probably just a matter of perspective due to my being use to extended foot movements. I would count myself lucky and relish the opportunity to be able to conduct such movements with only the weight of a 361 and a little fuel. That being said...each person is different.

 

[Jack_Shaft]

On a blind bet...I think that I would be willing to wager money that I've walked further in the woods than you've ever thought about walking.

I don't really care to discuss this one since it's irrelevant, but I guarantee you I've walked-a-plenty in the bush and up here in the Boreal Forest of Northern Canada, it's plenty rough as well.

With that said, I re-iterate the importance of a light saw for a long walk. Your lower back can only take so much punishment and for the average 200lb man, a 50cc saw tends to hit that weight sweet spot for most, as long as you're not cutting 16" trees regularly.

I swear many of you would recommend a 361 for their Grandma as a carving knife if you had the chance :greenchainsaw: