What saw is right for me?

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After looking at some more things into consideration, since Im willing to spend ~$300, I see that the Husqvarna 345/350 are plastic crank cases, and then the 353 (around $50+ more then the 350) have the magnesium crank case, if I were to get a Husqvarna I would more then likely go through the internet, since 2 places I know in town (Lowe's & Tractor Supply Company) have the models listed for around $20-$40 higher. My question is for $300 or less would I be better off going to my local Stihl Dealer and trying to get a good deal on a saw that will fall under $300 and give me the same performance as the Husqvarna's?

Also how big of a difference would it make having a plastic crank case and a magnesium? Because I like alot of the features that the Husqvarna 350 has compared to the Stihl MS250
 
Just finished reading this thread and I've got to say for a young feller you certainly want to know as much as possible before buying. And I commend you for that.

Me at that age I think I would have slapped my money on the counter and said "chainsaw please"

Seeing as your birthday is coming round and it's your 21st. Why not play the old man for a 21st present to remember and keep your money in your pocket;)
 
Well my dad believes I should just go get a $150 craftsman and be done with it, but what I try telling him is if I dish out some extra cash, then I get something that will last a longtime instead of crapping out later and then having to buy another one, so buy 1 quality saw and be done with it. My fiance on the otherhand when we were at the saw shop about my birthday coming up, I made a suggestion that everyone (fiance, family and etc) could all pitch in and get me a saw, but I may just use whatever I get back in taxes this year to use towards a saw. Right now I am leaning towards the Husqvarna 350 but reading that it has a plastic crank case as apposed to the magnesium on the more pro rated saws seems kind of akward, just having the crank case as plastic. What are the pro's (if any) and con's to having a plastic crank case?
 
Also how big of a difference would it make having a plastic crank case and a magnesium? Because I like alot of the features that the Husqvarna 350 has compared to the Stihl MS250

Stihl 250 and downwards, plus some of the models upwards are also plastic crankcases... And the only feature the 250 is missing from the 350 that I can think of atm. is the adjustable oiler, and perhaps better air filter. The 250 on the other hand has quick-release cover for the air filter making it fast and toolless to clean, the 350 needs a screwdriver but does not seem to be needing cleaning as often.

If your local Husky dealer is good take the 350, if your local Stihl dealer is good take the 250, if both are good the peoples voice seem to say take the 350.

20-40 bucks saved for buying over the Net is not worth it, unless you for whatever reason specifically not wan't to do business with your local dealer. But if you must, there are site sponsors selling over the Net.
 
that I am aware of, theres not a local Husky dealer, just big box stores that has some, but now Stihl on the other hand has a dealer with 2 shops, that said he can work with me on the price and etc, Stihl vs Husqvarna in the 45cc class I seen a popular mechanic's review that had like 7 45cc 18" bar saws, the MS250 took first place, and right behind was the Husqvarna 345, in the review they said they loved the 345's power but overall and etc the MS250 barely won. On the 345 I've read the chain oiling system is where it doesn't oil when its idling, with the 350 how much of a difference can it make being able to adjust how much oil is coming out?
 
On the 345 I've read the chain oiling system is where it doesn't oil when its idling, with the 350 how much of a difference can it make being able to adjust how much oil is coming out?

I think most modern saws is not pumping oil on idle anymore. The 250 is said to have " a new system" that "saves up to 50% on bar oil consumption", that might be about the same.

You would fe. want to adjust the amount of oil according to how long bars you mount on your saw. The 345 and 250 is set somewhere in the middle to almost suit different bar lengths, but with the adjustable you can make sure that you're getting enough oil for your longer bar, and then you can save some oil with the shorter ones.
 
Well I went to my local saw shops that just sells Stihl's, he was talking before they used to carry Husqvarna but Stihl has been really good to them so they are only carrying them. I was talking to him about the MS 250 and about the Husky 345/350's. Price was the best he could do for me on the MS 250 (basic, not the one with the tooless chain tensioning and etc *which I have heard to stay away from) was $280, 1 year warranty and 5 year warranty on the coil I think he said. I asked him about any service that is offered and he was saying they shouldn't have any problems and usually its just cleaning out the air filter/changing a spark plug, but they dont offer any service, but ofcourse usually keep most parts in stock and if not, they will know exactly when they can get them in. So basically at the $280 price tag I can get the MS250 for I believe I've made my mind up to just order 1 online and save a bit and alot of times, some of the sites are including shipping free, along with a free extra chain and etc and still beating my Stihl dealer, now the question is 345 or the 350, from reading about the 2 the only difference is ofcourse the extra CC's from the 350, along with the decompression valve and adjustable chain oiler on the 350, I am also planning on staying with a 16" bar since for the tree's that I will be cutting shouldn't need anything higher, and with the 2 it shouldn't be a problem running a 18" bar, so would I be better off with the 350 or just save a bit of money and use it towards some chaps, gloves, and etc and pickup the 345?
 
Definitely consider getting the proper safety gear (chaps/gloves/helmet) regardless of what saw you buy. If that means you only enough $$$ for the 345, that's the saw to buy. Don't skip the safety gear just to get a little better saw.

However, if after getting your safety gear you end up being able to get the 345 or the 350, buy the 350. It is a better saw which can run a 20" bar, has lower vibration and worth the extra $$$. The decompression valve is a real nice feature.

But again, don't skimp on safety gear.
 
Yeah since my birthday is near I may just try getting some gear for it while I buy the saw, I may just go with the 345, it has a decompressive valve and only thing addition to the 350 to 345 is the adjustable oiler, and ofcourse the added CC's but since I plan on only running a 16" bar (later down the road may get a 18" bar) I believe the 345 would be good, unless I find a nice deal on a 350 (I know at Lowe's they had the Nascar Tough edition and I believe it was $330 or $340).
 
Well, I just ordered a Husqvarna 345, costed $248 and came with a extra chain, bar cover and file to sharpen the chain! Hopefully I should get my surprise Tuesday or so of next week! Will post pics when I get it
 
Well I may not get it by Tuesday, since depending on how well Alamia will depend on when I am going to get it, since I ordered it like 9 PM EST on the 17th, at the best they will process it and ship it out tomorrow (Thursday) and "Most of the orders will be processed the following working day. Please, note your order will take 4-6 working days from the shipment date to arrive its destination in USA depending on your state and zip-code." so hopefully the end of next week.

I know when I built my computer Newegg is really awesome with getting things processed & shipped (got it a day earlier then listed) but then when I ordered my Xbox 360 2 weeks ago, it took them 3 days to process it :(

Hopefully the day I get the saw in the next day will be my day off so I can wake up early and break my new toy in!

Since I've never owned a new chainsaw, is there any particular way I should run it to get it broken in or what?
 
Yeah since my birthday is near I may just try getting some gear for it while I buy the saw, I may just go with the 345, it has a decompressive valve and only thing addition to the 350 to 345 is the adjustable oiler, and ofcourse the added CC's but since I plan on only running a 16" bar (later down the road may get a 18" bar) I believe the 345 would be good, unless I find a nice deal on a 350 (I know at Lowe's they had the Nascar Tough edition and I believe it was $330 or $340).

I also believe the 350 is built slightly sturdier than the 345 (metal handlebar).
 
...
Since I've never owned a new chainsaw, is there any particular way I should run it to get it broken in or what?

Congrats on the new saw!:biggrinbounce2:

Husky is the best choise in this class of saws.;)

Just don't run it wide open out of wood, and try to avoid sustained cutting.

Have the carb readjusted after about 10 litres of fuel.
 
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Congrats on the new saw!:biggrinbounce2:

Husky is the best choise in this class of saws.;)

Just don't run it wide open out of wood, and try to avoid sustained cutting.

Have the carb readjusted after about 10 litres of fuel.

I believe you meant after 10 TANKFULLS of fuel, not 10 liters (~20 tankfulls)
 
Well, unfortunately when I ordered my 345 on the 17th they were backordered, and have yet to get a shipment of them in, talked to the tech support which was very fast and nice, lady said they are supposed to get their shipments within 3 days, but some snow storms and bad weather have been delaying things, so hopefully they get them in before end of next week atleast :(
 
I may see if they have the 350 in stock and see if they can work out a deal for me come to think of it lol

*Note to self* Why didn't I think about this earlier!
 

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