What size saw for the job 24", 28", ?

[Trapper_Pete]

I dont cut everyday so life of my saws is pretty long. I run 20in 3/8 full chisel on my 55 ranchers. On small wood it works well. On the bigger stuff it works but will bog the saw. It all depends on whether you try and force the saw or just let the chain self feed. A sharp chain will pull itself into the wood without bogging. Try to force it and it takes to big a bite and will bogg. If I was cutting everyday, I would probably go for the larger cc's and a 20in bar, but for 3 or 4 cords a year, I dont know if it would be worth it for me to change what I already do. If I know I am going to cut larger wood, I take the 272xp with me and the 55's are there for backup.

for 3-4 cord an not sinking the whole bar in the log cut after gun the 20 on the 455 runs decent better than it did on the 50cc saw I had.

I ran a MS260 for about 9 years with a 20 inch but I would drop one tree and cut it up

then my wood cutting place changed and now I end up with a stack of 20-36 inch logs and it is cut after cut after cut with the bar in wood the whole time when that saw is out of gas switch and run the next one dry then fill both up and go back to the first saw.

I picked up a 18 inch bar for the 2255 same saw as your 455 but in red . I picked it up 3 on clearance from Bailey's because I had fence rows to clear and wasn't sure what metal I would hit , 18 inch chains being less and the bars 3 dollars a peice I figured why put good money in questionable wood .

I liked how the 55 cut with the 18 so much I never went back to the 20 it came with .

a freind has a 2250 with a 16 inch .325 bar it cuts better with that than my Stihl did running the .325 20 inch bar makes me wish I had bought a 16 inch bar for that saw years ago.

I understand I am by no means big production but when I get cutting at the farm it is certainly more than a home owner saw is up for especially an over barred one.

 

[homemade]

What about a nice 281/288. I’m sure you could find one if you ask in the chainsaw add section. Prolly find one for $500-700 in good shape. Don’t forget to leave yourself room in your budget for a bar and a few chains.

I agree with above, 70cc’s would be a good suit for this job. 281/88 are plentiful and powerful enough for a 28” bar in that oak you were eyeing up.

And yes, you can cut it up with the 50cc saw you have. You could also chop it down with an ax. You might as well use a tool that suits the job and budget available.

 

[chipper1]

What about a nice 281/288. I’m sure you could find one if you ask in the chainsaw add section. Prolly find one for $500-700 in good shape. Don’t forget to leave yourself room in your budget for a bar and a few chains.

I agree with above, 70cc’s would be a good suit for this job. 281/88 are plentiful and powerful enough for a 28” bar in that oak you were eyeing up.

And yes, you can cut it up with the 50cc saw you have. You could also chop it down with an ax. You might as well use a tool that suits the job and budget available.

I just posted pictures for @roger collins , he has multiple 281s for less than that but as husky man said the OP was looking for a saw he could get dealer support on in the future. A 281 is an easy saw to maintain/work on though, and it certainly wouldn't have a problem pulling a 28 or even a 32 if needed.

 

[homemade]

They still make the 288 for non USA markets. Lots of dealer available parts out there. And find a good dealer with mechanics and parts sellers that know a thing or two about saws it shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[chipper1]

They still make the 288 for non USA markets. Lots of dealer available parts out there. And find a good dealer with mechanics and parts sellers that know a thing or two about saws it shouldn’t be a problem.

Yes they are a very popular saw, I sold mine a few yrs ago, I think there may be a few parts that are NLA now. @dustinwilt68 ?
I don't frequent to many saw shops looking to get work done, and rarely for a stihl part when I have to, so I'm not sure how many of them would feel about working on an older saw. I'm sure there are many guys in small shops or guys who work at the dealer that would actually enjoy working on one.

 

[Bubbs]

How about a Husky 365 and calling it good?

 

[chipper1]

How about a Husky 365 and calling it good?

A 365 would do the job as would the jonsered 2166. The 2166/365 and the 2172/372 all have the same engine at 71cc, the 2166/365 have a restriction in the transfer port covers that reduces the power, but can be removed if needed, there are threads here on how to do that.

 

[foeke]

Cutting up 30" hardish trees, I would prefer 24"
Less cutters in wood makes it easier on the PH.
And 24" makes everything a bit cheaper and at the same time safer.
5HP would be enough in that case.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G955F met Tapatalk

 

[Bubbs]

Got a line on some used Stihls and Husqvarnas. For a guy who only does the basic maintenance, are there differences as far as the amount of service that is required of if one brand is a little more finicky or needs more tweeking to run properly.

Can get a 372xp or MS 461 for under my hopeful project of $700

cheers

 

[homemade]

Every saw regardless of brand needs the same maintenance and tuning. I think you will be happy with either 372 or 460

 

[Mad Professor]

For much under budget you could find a very nice used and/or rebuilt with OEM parts stihl 038M or 044.

Very simple to work on, reliable. Will pull 25" bars fine.

With money saved invest in some basic tools and spare parts. Being able to fix things at home without going to the dealer is a plus.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Got a line on some used Stihls and Husqvarnas. For a guy who only does the basic maintenance, are there differences as far as the amount of service that is required of if one brand is a little more finicky or needs more tweeking to run properly.

Can get a 372xp or MS 461 for under my hopeful project of $700

cheers

If that 372 is used, I'd suggest pricing out a new 365. You can convert it to a 372 in about 25 minutes.

 

[John Lyngdal]

If you wander up North into Oregon I have a nice running Stihl 038 Magnum with a 25" ES bar that I'm looking to re-home.

 

[chipper1]

If that 372 is used, I'd suggest pricing out a new 365. You can convert it to a 372 in about 25 minutes.

Your fast buddy , limiters, then a nice muffler mod and they run well, same with the 2166.

 

[Bubbs]

Thanks again for all wealth of knowledge that has been shared with me. The 372xp and Ms 461 have been maintained by a saw mechanic who services and sales them. I can get either saw for around $550.


This topic/discussion reminds me of my buddies who debate whether an F150 or F350 is the best tool to take the bass boat out once or twice a month to the lake. The F350 advocates always have the best arguments.

 

[John Lyngdal]

Thanks again for all wealth of knowledge that has been shared with me. The 372xp and Ms 461 have been maintained by a saw mechanic who services and sales them. I can get either saw for around $550.
This topic/discussion reminds me of my buddies who debate whether an F150 or F350 is the best tool to take the bass boat out once or twice a month to the lake. The F350 advocates always have the best arguments.

Well maintained, you can't go wrong with either of those saws.

 

[full chizel]

If you have a 50, why own a 60, they are way to close in my mind. 50/70 is a great two saw plan, but let's be clear I'm not promoting a two saw plan, because the forums are different lol.

I see a 241 in your avatar, 40, 60, 80 is another nice plan .

No 80cc. I have an Echo 2511T, MS 241, and Johnnysorehead 2260.

 

[chipper1]

No 80cc. I have an Echo 2511T, MS 241, and Johnnysorehead 2260.

Better get on it, then you'll have a good 4 saw plan lol.
A 7910 would fit in just right.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Your fast buddy , limiters, then a nice muffler mod and they run well, same with the 2166.

Either I'm fast or I have a bad memory. I do remember removing the majority of the metal baffle by just breaking it out with a set of wire cutters. Also, I have the splined carb tool, so I haven't messed with the limiters, and I also left the muffler stock for now. As you know, it's nice to have a stock sounding saw around for some situations. Still, it might have been longer than 25 minutes, and it definitely was if you include the time I spent tracking down whatever bit that is, tamper proof T10, or something, isn't it?

 

[chipper1]

Either I'm fast or I have a bad memory. I do remember removing the majority of the metal baffle by just breaking it out with a set of wire cutters. Also, I have the splined carb tool, so I haven't messed with the limiters, and I also left the muffler stock for now. As you know, it's nice to have a stock sounding saw around for some situations. Still, it might have been longer than 25 minutes, and it definitely was if you include the time I spent tracking down whatever bit that is, tamper proof T10, or something, isn't it?

I've never done it myself, I let guys like you do it and then buy the saws from them . That's the way I've heard to do it, takes a lot less time than grinding the whole thing out. It is nice to have a stock saw at times, been on plenty of jobs it was what was best, but I usually like the sound of at least a mild muffler mod . They sell the torx security bits at most the big box stores these days or you can order them online. Some guys break the center out of them and use a regular torx, or use a flat screwdriver on them, but I'm not sure if the flat screwdriver technique would work on the transfer covers.