What's the advantage of a full wrap?

[groundup]

Dumb question for most. I cut firewood and looking at a 441, and want the high output oiler and dual dogs.

I just wonder what are the advantages/disadvantages to the full wrap handle

 

[redoakneck]

I think a full wrap is used more for felling trees so you can hold onto the saw on your "off " side (bar side up)??? Not sure really, they do look a little cooler.

 

[parrisw]

Yes made for felling trees, really helps on very steep ground. Out here for fallers its actually mandatory to have a full wrap for safety reasons.

 

[Stihlman441]

If you dont like it just change over to a standard one.:smile2:

 

[Metals406]

It's already been addressed, but a full-wrap gives you a quick transition to the clutch side of the saw for felling. It affords you 180° of handle on the power-head, instead of around 120° with a half-wrap. A full-wrap can also protect the power-head a little better from certain impacts.

Speaking specifically of the Weber Customs handles in my signature, they also give more room between the covers and the users hands.

I know a few pro-fallers' that want nothing to do with a full-wrap -- so a lot of personal preference comes into play as well.

 

[leeha]

Like others said, For felling reasons. But i like them
when i'm cutting firewood in a log pile. I can hold the
saw in any position. Almost all my saws have full wraps
and they look BAD AZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.





Lee

 

[cbfarmall]

It'll also help protect the clutch side of the saw.

Aside from the ergonomics, a saw with a full wrap isn't likely to tip over. Dang flush wrap Huskys (and late model Jonseys for that matter) fall over in a stiff breeze.

Chris B.

 

[mdavlee]

Full wraps are more comfortable to make felling cuts and not have to back bar the face or the back cut if you can't walk around the tree due to steep or other obstacles.

 

[homelitejim]

It is all about position when felling a tree, full wraps and 3/4 wraps help in getting a hold of the saw from different angles and positions. All of the felling dawgs I have seen require a bottom bar cut, it can be hard for the saw to grab a tree if you can only access it by using the top of the bar to finish the face cut due to lack of handle. The full wrap eliminates this because you can grab the clutch side of the saw to finish the cut without moving to the other side of the tree which can be blocked by terrain or foliage. Hope this makes sense, while a full wrap is not always needed it does come in handy on some of those difficult to get to trees, which are usually the only ones left this late in the firewood season.

 

[sawfun9]

I like full wraps too, however I've found when stumping and trying to get as low to the ground as possible to save potentially burled wood. A 1/2 wrap lets me get the last few inches of standing wood.

 

[Metals406]

I like full wraps too, however I've found when stumping and trying to get as low to the ground as possible to save potentially burled wood. A 1/2 wrap lets me get the last few inches of standing wood.

This is all but an non-issue with a longer bar. . . But I agree, a half-wrap buys a few more inches.

 

[SawTroll]

Dumb question for most. I cut firewood and looking at a 441, and want the high output oiler and dual dogs.

I just wonder what are the advantages/disadvantages to the full wrap handle

None, unless you fell on steep slopes.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I like them on mine because my saws are only used for felling. I don't want or need one on my limbing or firewood saws.

They suck for flushing stumps too.

 

[SawTroll]

It'll also help protect the clutch side of the saw.

Aside from the ergonomics, a saw with a full wrap isn't likely to tip over. Dang flush wrap Huskys (and late model Jonseys for that matter) fall over in a stiff breeze.

Chris B.

Why is that an issue, they are just as easy to pick up anyway, by the handlebar on the left side? :msp_confused:

 

[SawTroll]

Full wraps are more comfortable to make felling cuts and not have to back bar the face or the back cut if you can't walk around the tree due to steep or other obstacles.

What's wrong with "back barring" - I have done a lot of it, and it never was an issue?

 

[parrisw]

What's wrong with "back barring" - I have done a lot of it, and it never was an issue?

Come out here and I'll show you why its an issue. How big if trees to you fell anyway? 6"?:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[RandyMac]

There lots of McCullochs and Homelites that came standard with full wraps, the market required it.

 

[SawTroll]

Come out here and I'll show you why its an issue. How big if trees to you fell anyway? 6"?:hmm3grin2orange:

No, you just need to hold the saw properly, as pushback will happen, but it will in bore-cutting as well, and never is an issue, really.

 

[parrisw]

No, you just need to hold the saw properly, as pushback will happen, but it will in bore-cutting as well, and never is an issue, really.

Simple answer, NO.

Like I said, out here, it is a requirement to have a full wrap if you are a faller, that's the rules, they wont let you out unless you have one.

 

[user 64030]

None, unless you fell on steep slopes.

Other reasons exit ST...

Funny, I contemplated a 3/4 wrap on my 441CM, but decided against it as I only cut firewood... Well first tree(s) I fell with it was a set of standing dead wood. One broke off and leaning on the other. I had to back-bar the back cut on the standing tree, or stand under the leaner. Yea it pushed back a bit, no it wasn't an issue, but w/ the wrap I would have had another option.

Still the limited use I would actually need it, the extra cash, and the extra storage space (it wouldn't even fit in my trucks lock-box at that time) pushed me to the standard half-wrap.

They do "look" mean though :chainsawguy:

dw