Woodmaster vs Central Boiler advice please
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windthrown
361 Junkie
OWB brand wars...
Oh no, not Spikey again! Even the ghost of Spikey...
I also fail to see the issue with having legs on a boiler. Heat rises... and the enclosed area below the heater (at least on a Central Boiler) does not lose much heat. Same with a house. The floors are usually the smallest return on investment to insulate. Go for the roof and walls first. Most companies raise the boiler to the level that they can be used (door is thigh high and up). Makes engineering sence to have most of the water in the tank above the burn chamber, not below. On the slab CBs are very stable. It would take a lot of force to knock one off their feet. Thick plate steel will also conduct heat just fine, and not rust out in the process. I'll take 1/4" carbon steel over stainless any time. It is a lot cheaper and there is no rust in our boiler after 2 heating seasons here. Zero. If you like better heat conduction go with plain steel and not stainless. The heat transfer rate is less with stainless steel than with mild carbon steel.
I like long legs on my womens
and my boilers, LOL
Ole buddy Spikey tried to tell us OWB owners that we aint rightopcorn:
Oh no, not Spikey again! Even the ghost of Spikey...
I also fail to see the issue with having legs on a boiler. Heat rises... and the enclosed area below the heater (at least on a Central Boiler) does not lose much heat. Same with a house. The floors are usually the smallest return on investment to insulate. Go for the roof and walls first. Most companies raise the boiler to the level that they can be used (door is thigh high and up). Makes engineering sence to have most of the water in the tank above the burn chamber, not below. On the slab CBs are very stable. It would take a lot of force to knock one off their feet. Thick plate steel will also conduct heat just fine, and not rust out in the process. I'll take 1/4" carbon steel over stainless any time. It is a lot cheaper and there is no rust in our boiler after 2 heating seasons here. Zero. If you like better heat conduction go with plain steel and not stainless. The heat transfer rate is less with stainless steel than with mild carbon steel.
grandpatractor
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'll second that one.
whats wrong with legs as long as its insulated. That way I can stand up straighter when I'm loading wood.The snow won't melt of the roof til it gets above freezing.:crazy1:
Windthrown and butch....we have had are little problems about rspike but he has some very good points.
WE love you spike, thanks for the help on the hearth forum.
Now for the hardy I cant say I agree with very little of the stove, but thats my choice.
They remind me of an old car from back to the future, all that stainless steel on the out side.
Windthrown, my dads CB did come off the slab.....LOL
I wish I had some pics, it was up right but one side was about 7" down...funny. lesson #1 dont for get to make sure the brakes on the frount end loader work, lesson #2 take the chain off the hook before driving away from the stove.
Sorry it was a funny time along time ago for me.
WE love you spike, thanks for the help on the hearth forum.
Now for the hardy I cant say I agree with very little of the stove, but thats my choice.
They remind me of an old car from back to the future, all that stainless steel on the out side.
Windthrown, my dads CB did come off the slab.....LOL
I wish I had some pics, it was up right but one side was about 7" down...funny. lesson #1 dont for get to make sure the brakes on the frount end loader work, lesson #2 take the chain off the hook before driving away from the stove.
Sorry it was a funny time along time ago for me.
.
I've been beat over the head for saying heat rises. Warmed air yes, but heat goes to cold. Always. The advantage to the smaller Central boilers is that the "skirting" or siding goes down to the slab or foundation and you can stuff additional insulation below the boiler and around the pipes. On the larger models the firebox sits low to the ground. It is very important on any house in a cold climate to insulate the ground floor, up to 40% of the heat can be lost thru a floor.
highpower
ArboristSite Member
I am not sure how machined stainless equals cheap as far as the handles on a Hardy go. They cam shut just like water tight doors. The doors and cabinet are insulated so well the stove is cold to the touch. We had a 2" snow that stayed on the stove until the sun came out and melted it late in the afternoon.
There is a stainless baffle in the top of the firebox that turns hot gasses back into the stove for a second burn.
As far as leaks go the stove has a 10 year warranty. I am not sure about how your father-in-laws stove got beat up. Mine is two years old and still looks new. I will give you the outer shell is thin but it's only job is to cover the insulation so is does not get wet when it rains.
The reason I have a hardy is I have two friends who have Hardy stoves. The first has had his for nine years and the second has had his twelve or thirteen, he can't remember for sure. The nine year old stove has had nothing done to it. The other has replaced the Taco pump two years ago.
johnb
ArboristSite Operative
whatcha burnin
Hey, as long as we are all happy and warm, who cares what brand we have. What is everyone burnin?? I'm burning all wet wood, not split. Mostly wild cherry, pin oak and maple (sugar/silver). I don't pick and choose but the harder and wetter the better. I'm getting a 20 hour burn on my firebox, but that is empty. I have the full floor grate system and have had no trouble with bridging. Two of my friends have units 5 and 15 years older with the inline single grate system and are forced to check it every 12 hours, due to occassional bridging. The hardy recomends every 12hours, but I like to push it. I really like the maple it seems to have much great moisture content and holds longer. The cherry is nice too but smokes heavy. Going out today to cut some hickory slab wood from my mill and see how it holds. Been darn cold but the house stays 75. I havn't turned the oil burner on yet this year. Can't complain but the wood pile is getting low! The Hoosier
Hey, as long as we are all happy and warm, who cares what brand we have. What is everyone burnin?? I'm burning all wet wood, not split. Mostly wild cherry, pin oak and maple (sugar/silver). I don't pick and choose but the harder and wetter the better. I'm getting a 20 hour burn on my firebox, but that is empty. I have the full floor grate system and have had no trouble with bridging. Two of my friends have units 5 and 15 years older with the inline single grate system and are forced to check it every 12 hours, due to occassional bridging. The hardy recomends every 12hours, but I like to push it. I really like the maple it seems to have much great moisture content and holds longer. The cherry is nice too but smokes heavy. Going out today to cut some hickory slab wood from my mill and see how it holds. Been darn cold but the house stays 75. I havn't turned the oil burner on yet this year. Can't complain but the wood pile is getting low! The Hoosier
In my Heatmor I have been burning 3' x 8-12'' sticks of green red oak, sugar maple and yellow birch. I fill every 24 hours and the outside temp has been no higher than 5 degrees for the last few weeks and frequently down to -10 or less at night. Was actually down to -33 one night. House is 75 or better and the propane furnace hasnt been on in 5 years.
Works for me.
Works for me.
BTW the more moisture in the wood the faster it burns......
i built a owb and my firebox is 36 dia by 42 long and i fill it about half full every 12 hours. usually half good hardwood and half soft wood. my is natural draft. think powerdraft saves wood??? mine is on at 160 and off at 175total cycle is 3 hours. on cycle is about an hour. it has been -10 to 10 degrees last couple weeks.
thanks,
matt
thanks,
matt
Sweet, im going to soak my wood.
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah he lost me too with that one. Maybe because it burns with less BTU's you go through it faster?
Green wood burns faster because the process of boiling off all the water contained in the wood eats up BTU's.
windthrown
361 Junkie
No no no no no no no no no....
Nope. Heat does not always go from hot to cold, as you say here. It depends on the medium in which the heat is being transfered, and the phase of the medium (ie, gas, liquid or solid). Only in heat conduction does hot go to cold, as you say.
The principles of thermodynamics states that there are three basic forms of heat transfer. Conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is where energy moves through a medium, 'from hot cold' as you say. If you heat a piece of copper on one end, the energy will move through the copper metal and the other end will become heated until the energy is uniform in the copper. Then there is convection, where heated gas and fluids (does not happen in solids) become less dense and hotter gas and liquid rise above colder (more dense) gas and liquid. In this case, hot does not go to cold. Heat rises in that case. Every time. Day in, day out. Then there is radiation, where energy is radiated from a medium in the form of low level infra-red light waves. That is what you feel when a fire is burning and you put your hands up to the fire. Radiant heat. In the case of radiant heating, there is no 'going from hot to cold'. The radiation is uniform, and is emitted from the source outward until it strikes something that absorbs it. The medium that absorbs it may be hot, cold, or otherwise. Again, this is an example where hot does not go to cold.
As for insulating a house, most of the heat will radiate out the windows. Then a lot of the heat will radiate out of the top and walls of the house becasue heat convection will transfer most of the heat in your house from the basement (if you have one) to the attic. The least likely place that heat will escape from your house is from the basement and/or crawl space. Why? Becasue heat rises due to convection. Same with our CB unit out back. The boiler water will be heated, and the hottest water will move to the top of the boiler tank. From there the heat will be transferred through the steel (conduction) and radiate from the outside into the atmosphere. So the most important part to insulate is the top and sides of the boiler.
Nope. Heat does not always go from hot to cold, as you say here. It depends on the medium in which the heat is being transfered, and the phase of the medium (ie, gas, liquid or solid). Only in heat conduction does hot go to cold, as you say.
The principles of thermodynamics states that there are three basic forms of heat transfer. Conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is where energy moves through a medium, 'from hot cold' as you say. If you heat a piece of copper on one end, the energy will move through the copper metal and the other end will become heated until the energy is uniform in the copper. Then there is convection, where heated gas and fluids (does not happen in solids) become less dense and hotter gas and liquid rise above colder (more dense) gas and liquid. In this case, hot does not go to cold. Heat rises in that case. Every time. Day in, day out. Then there is radiation, where energy is radiated from a medium in the form of low level infra-red light waves. That is what you feel when a fire is burning and you put your hands up to the fire. Radiant heat. In the case of radiant heating, there is no 'going from hot to cold'. The radiation is uniform, and is emitted from the source outward until it strikes something that absorbs it. The medium that absorbs it may be hot, cold, or otherwise. Again, this is an example where hot does not go to cold.
As for insulating a house, most of the heat will radiate out the windows. Then a lot of the heat will radiate out of the top and walls of the house becasue heat convection will transfer most of the heat in your house from the basement (if you have one) to the attic. The least likely place that heat will escape from your house is from the basement and/or crawl space. Why? Becasue heat rises due to convection. Same with our CB unit out back. The boiler water will be heated, and the hottest water will move to the top of the boiler tank. From there the heat will be transferred through the steel (conduction) and radiate from the outside into the atmosphere. So the most important part to insulate is the top and sides of the boiler.
Hello, Windthrown. Was on the Heatmor site the other day and i noticed they claim that a forced air draft is more efficient. With todays legal system I dont think too many companys make false claims like that.. Must be something to it.
highpower
ArboristSite Member
"Hey, as long as we are all happy and warm, who cares what brand we have. What is everyone burnin??"
I could not agree more. Variety is the spice of life as they say. That's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
I could not agree more. Variety is the spice of life as they say. That's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
It has sand in the bottom around the the grates/ash auger and it is lined with fire brick as well. The door has water through it.
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