wow seriously? this guy is a noooooob!

[smokechase II]

Part of the physics

"The problem I have with deeper notches for stubs as large as in the video is the loss of leverage with wedges. The shorter distance between hinge (fulcrum) and wedge (end of lever) can often result in lower lift as the wood gets compressed especially on softer stuff like conifers. I have seen a fair few smashed plastic wedges and planished or split alloy wedges from being pounded in to that sort of back cut."

===============

The problem with using a shallower notch on a stub is that more of the weight stays on the wedge side of the fulcrum.

The more weight that can be moved over to the lay side, by extending the depth of the face, the easier the wedging is.

Yes, the simple physics of the distance between the wedge and the hinge can be important when working against a lean. Also, utilize the simple physics of a teeter tooter - put more weight on one side and it takes less force when dealing with a heavy balanced staub.

 

[outofmytree]

"The problem I have with deeper notches for stubs as large as in the video is the loss of leverage with wedges. The shorter distance between hinge (fulcrum) and wedge (end of lever) can often result in lower lift as the wood gets compressed especially on softer stuff like conifers. I have seen a fair few smashed plastic wedges and planished or split alloy wedges from being pounded in to that sort of back cut."

===============

The problem with using a shallower notch on a stub is that more of the weight stays on the wedge side of the fulcrum.

The more weight that can be moved over to the lay side, by extending the depth of the face, the easier the wedging is.

Yes, the simple physics of the distance between the wedge and the hinge can be important when working against a lean. Also, utilize the simple physics of a teeter tooter - put more weight on one side and it takes less force when dealing with a heavy balanced staub.

I hear what you say smoke but my experience is exactly as I posted. Having a shallower scarf not only makes inserting wedges easier but gives you more room to work with in the back cut. Again useful when you need space to insert wedges in stacks to pop a heavy one over.

 

[Bermie]

I wasn't able to see the whole clip...but what I did see looks like two guys practicing their basic tree felling, along with takedown of hungup trees according to accepted european standards...I reckon they got it stuck on purpose to practice removal technique...but I could be wrong. So yes they look a bit noobyish.

You are taught from the outset to remove the buttresses so as to have an even diameter all the way to the base and accomodate a smaller bar length, the felling cut is made as close to the base as possible and buttresses get in the way and have fibres going in different directions that can affect the hinge characteristics and fall.
The humbolt cut is not a regular part of the itinerary at the stage of learning with small trees, rather cut as low to the base as possible with a fairly shallow face cut.

Yes, smaller bars are more often used in Europe, and people are specifically trained in takedown of hungup trees as par for the course.

Want to know any more?

 

[Jgraham798]

Wow now that dude must be from Tennessee, married to his sister or both.

He can't be from Tennessee if he's married to his sister....we don't marry family closer than 1st cousins..

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

He can't be from Tennessee if he's married to his sister....we don't marry family closer than 1st cousins..

must be alaBAMa, :jawdrop:

 

[diesel3408]

damn i hope my new 660 can do that had to retire the 056