Zero dollar ?fix? for scored piston/cylinder

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yawning_dog

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Zero dollar “fix” for scored piston/cylinder

Hi guys. I thought I would show you a little experiment I did on an 036. The saw was my father-in-law’s and he gave it to me saying it was hard to start etc. Well, he was right, but it did start after a while. It also seemed to idle okay and had good throttle response etc. But then I did one cut and the thing throttled down and stopped. Then there was no starting it again. Actually, I did get it started by holding it like a sword with my right hand, finger on the gas, and yanking on the starter like hell. I wouldn’t recommend this technique. But even then it wouldn’t idle at all. No carb adjustments would affect the operation.

So at that point I pulled the muffler and low and behold noticed that the piston was scored and the rings were stuck. Hmm, that could be a problem. I believe I measured the compression at about 110lbs cold. I decided to tear into it and see what could be done. For kicks, I decided to just clean up the cylinder and piston the best I could and put it all back together.

For the cylinder, I used muratic acid and a q-tip. I got it almost totally free of aluminum below the exhaust port as you can see from the pictures, but I probably didn’t do such a great job above the port. After that I used a ball hone on it. For the piston, I used a very fine grit wet sand paper to slowly remove enough material to get the rings out. This took some doing and it’s difficult because if you force them too much they’ll snap! I finally got them out and then I continued with the sand paper a bit in the affected area of the piston grooves etc. Finally, I cleaned everything off the best I could, put her back together, and fired her up.

I will say that it runs much better than it did. It’s not a 2 pull start though. It seems to have plenty of power, but the idle is pretty rough. Sometimes it will idle okay indefinitely, but sometimes it s..l..o..w..l..y dies. Low jet adjustments and the idle speed seems to affect it now, but I can’t say I’ve dialed in a setting that always works like a champ. That said, I haven’t really done more than a couple cuts with it either so I don’t know how it will act if it really gets warmed up and broken in. From the little use it’s seen, the saw shows about 130lbs of compression warm, which from what I’ve learned here is marginal at best.

Anyway, it seems like this is a hokey but reasonable technique to use if you don’t want to spend ANY money and you’ve got a few hours to mess around. Of course you’re not going to get a like-new saw out of it, but at least you’ll get some good garage time in! 
 
cylinder picture: before and after

Here's a picture of the jug before and after. Notice there's still some visible damage above the exhaust port in the after picture. And of course, I don't really know if I honed the sucker too long, not long enough, or just right. I used a Dewalt drill on the low setting for about 5 seconds or so with an almost brand new hone. For oil, I used some stuff I have laying around that is used when sharpening chisels etc. I've got a low budget operation going here!
 
That cylinder cleaned up amazingly well! Your compression will be higher if you let the saw cool off. See what you get cold. Did you take a pic of the piston after cleaning it up? I wouldn't be surprised it she cuts good for you. Your compression isn't all that bad.
 
Thats how I found this site, having to repair my first saw on a bad ebay buy. Mine was almost the same way and the dealer wanted min $200 to fix. I spent $16 on ring and gasket and half of that was shipping. The saw is still cutting firewood to this day.

WTG taking matters into your own hands. :cheers:
 
Yes, I was actually surprised at how clean it turned out too. I've tried it before, and it always seems that there's some gouges that just don't come out. Of course that was the case here too, but it still looked fairly decent.

The piston is another story. It's a wreck, but oh well. I did consider rings, but they really didn't look too bad. But then again maybe it's the microscopic stuff that matters. They did have some vertical scratches on them in the location of the piston scoring.

I'm hopeful that I got enough out of the ring grooves and opened them up enough that the rings don't re-stick again. Of course I don't know why the saw scored in the first place and I didn't bother doing an vacuum or pressure check yet. So I guess one of these days when I find some wood to cut I'll try 'er out!
 
Did you clean the carbon build-up off the back side of each ring?

You would get more compression and clean the cylinder up even further by taking ten minutes or so and running some emery cloth around on the cylinder walls with your fingers and some WD-40. That would get all of the discoloration off the wall and the rings would seat better giving you more compression after ten tankfuls of gas or so.
 
130 is bad... sure it runs, but it will be a heck of a lot better at 150+.

Good work though.. do what Jacob suggests and try some new rings.

And.. if you don't know why it scored first time, unless it was a gas "mix" or adjustment issue, it may just happen again..
 
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rings

yup, maybe next time I send away for some other parts/chain etc. I'll put some rings on the order, assuming I can find them online. Regarding the emory cloth, I would think the honing would have taken care of that, right? Or are you saying to do the emory cloth after the honing?

And yes, I did try to clean up the rings, front & back. But I really didn't look tooooo close at the back, so there's a chance I didn't get the carbon there. But I'll make sure to look at that the next time I try this again, if there's a next time. Thanks for the tip!

Regardless, it's a big hack, but at least it runs now! And as I said, I got some garage time!
 
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It was a 47.5mm 180 grit silicon carbide ball hone by BRM. It's the only one I have and it happened to be "about" the size of the cylinder. So I took a shot at it.
 
320 grit on the hone,,

when the new rings get here take one of the old rings and break it in half,,, use the corner of the broken edge to remove the carbon in the ring grooves go all the way around,,,, it would really run even better if you could find a new piston!!!!!!
 
180, 320, what's a little grit between friends... Oh well, I guess I now have an excuse to buy more stuff! I was actually overjoyed that the darn thing fit into the cylinder. Although I did have to sort of cram it in there! I used the same one for my MS170. kidding.
 
Oh RiverRat, and I'm sure you're right about the piston too. But as I said, I can't seem to find any trees to cut, or time to do it. So I just muck with saws when I can.
 
Oh RiverRat, and I'm sure you're right about the piston too. But as I said, I can't seem to find any trees to cut, or time to do it. So I just muck with saws when I can.

You can probly find rings for about $12 or less,,, they alone would make a noticable difference,,, youll probably be fine with the 180 but 240 320 is better the rings will seat better and yield better compression,, especially with the ring grooves cleaned!!!!!!
 
Well, I may just take your advice on that. Do you happen to know how long it takes to seat the rings in a properly honed cylinder? I'm sure this has been discussed here thousands of times, so forgive me for being repetitive.
 
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