034 Resurrection....:dizzy:

[sefh3]

Find a piece of flat stock or angle iron. mark out the bar studs and the crank. Drill three holes. Intall the bar on the studs with a 1/2" nut spacer between the case and bar and install the bar studs. Take a 2 jaw puller and stick it on the bar covering the crank and use the crank to pull off. I have found this to be the best method. If all the screws are out and the case spins freely from each other you just need some pressure.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Isnt this pretty much the same thing?

 

[watsonr]

Get some A** on the end of it, she' come apart. Once it starts to move don't let up. In fact I use a De Walt 18V Lithium torque driver... any hit it!

 

[sefh3]

Once you get the puller tight, what it with a rubber hammer.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I got 207 lbs of arse to put behind it.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Once you get the puller tight, what it with a rubber hammer.

What or whack.........now I'm all confused....


:msp_biggrin:

 

[sefh3]

What or whack.........now I'm all confused....


:msp_biggrin:

dam spell checker. Yes WHACK it. Do you have an impact gun?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

dam spell checker. Yes WHACK it. Do you have an impact gun?

Yup...... 1/2" Craftsman Impact (pneumatic) & a small cordless Porter Cable impact driver.

Problem is.....I move most of my workshop into the basement during the winter months. Thats currently where I'm working. I suppose I could bring my little 5gal pancake down there.

 

[mels]

Is that puller (nice job, btw on your homebuilt) pulling evenly or is it just mounted off to that one side?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Is that puller (nice job, btw on your homebuilt) pulling evenly or is it just mounted off to that one side?

:question:...........hmmm.....its not really a puller....its more of a "pusher" per se.
Not really sure what you mean by mounted off to the side? The bolt center may not be dead nuts with the crank center but its pretty dang close. Not enough to cause any issue........I think.
I used a piece of aluminum between the bolt and end of crank so as not to bugger it up.

EDIT: I think the camera angle makes it look a little more offset than it actually is.

 

[mels]

Understood.

I look at it the other way, like you're pulling the case halve off the crank. To me, and I'm marty feldman-eyed anyway, if I were to try and pull that halve off the crank using your rig I'd wonder if it could be just kinda cocking the halve enough to make the crank grab the bearing?

I could be way off base here, but there's a reason why it ain't coming apart and there shouldn't be any reason to believe the crank and bearing are rusted together. What else would cause it to be so hard to disassemble? New, is that union a slip-fit, or were they pressed together?

Just my tormented mechanical since birth Army-trained brain over analyzing things maybe...

 

[Adirondackstihl]

What else would cause it to be so hard to disassemble?

My guess is tight tolerances on a press fit.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Just went down to my shop and gave her a talkin to. Set my splitter back on and commenced the arse whoopin.
And wouldn't you know it......she split!!!! Pics will follow. I like pics...you?

YAY!!

I need a beer.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

As promised....here are the pics. Glad I decided to do the bottom end.
The bearing ended up staying in the case (not sure if thats typical) so no I've gotta figure out how to press it out. No press (arbor or hydraulic) at my immediate disposal, but I have access to any piece of equipment known to reside in a machine shop. Work . Next question....whats the best method of tackling the other side? Best way to press crank from flywheel side? Little heat and a neoprene hammer?

 

[sefh3]

Good job getting it apart. Sometimes a good talking to is all that is needed. No press...... heat is your friend. Take a heat gun and the those cases warm. The bearings will come out. You need to get it warm 200ish degrees for the mag to swell. I found a heat gun works the best but a hair dryer will get these just takes longer.

 

[struggle]

Good job getting it apart. Sometimes a good talking to is all that is needed. No press...... heat is your friend. Take a heat gun and the those cases warm. The bearings will come out. You need to get it warm 200ish degrees for the mag to swell. I found a heat gun works the best but a hair dryer will get these just takes longer.

any reason to not use a propane torch at a distance to heat the case?

 

[Abflyboy]

I would heat PTO side of case with heat gun and drive bearing out with a socket and hammer. Maybe this is the most diabolical, evil, horrible way to do it but it's worked for me in the past. Or put it in the oven on a cookie sheet at 250 degrees and wait til you hear the bearing fall out. That's worked for me too on many many motorcycle cases.

On the flywheel side, and others may chime about my ineptitude, I thread a clutch center section on the crank, put a socket on the hex drive on the clutch center part, and hit socket with a hammer while supporting the case. Make sure the clutch center is at least snug on the crank threads so it doesn't back off and hurt the threads on the crank. Heating the case works well on this side too. To support the case, I lay a couple rags on the bench and use that to hold up that end while holding the other end in my hand. Then bearing splitter to get bearing off crank.

Don't get yourself spun out. I've worried many times about weather or not I'm going to damage a case. I take my time and be as careful as I can and haven't messed one up yet. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[glock37]

Take heat gun around the flywheel side in circluler motion for a few min get it hot and tap crank and bearing out

if bearing is on crank after removing from case get a bearing separater from HF and pull it of they work wonderfullly

other bearing in case with crank out of it heat for a few min around the out side and tap out of case with a small hammer

make sure you have gloves on, case get very hot to touch after bearing out let air cool to touch before further work

i was alittle shakey at first too but after a few crankcases you get used too it

 

[Adirondackstihl]

On the flywheel side, and others may chime about my ineptitude, I thread a clutch center section on the crank, put a socket on the hex drive on the clutch center part, and hit socket with a hammer while supporting the case.

Nope....that would be driving the crank/bearing in the opposite direction. Doubt you'd ever remove it using that method without breaking the case halve.

You have to drive it from the outside - in.
A clutch spider will never thread on the flywheel side of the crank. Flywheel nut is right hand thread, clutch spider is left hand thread & different thread pitch to boot.

Not sure if the above quoted statement was made using experience or if your up too late trying to help a fellow AS member finger something out and just over-thinking :wink2:
It happens.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Hey glock......wanna do some powder coating :angel: