parrisw
Tree Freak
The best way to heat a bearing is a hot oil bath, now get your mind outa the gutter!!!!!!!!!!
036 Build Projects, Crank, Bearings, Carbs etc etc
- Thread starter CWME
- Start date
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I can't, it's attached to my body...
parrisw
Tree Freak
ha ha ha. LOL
Oh and must give JJ credit for the heating the case with a wood stove trick. He's the one that told me that!
Ditto. (Sorry to question you, Rupe.) My IPL does reference quite a few parts with an asterisk and "up to a certain serial number" disclaimer associated with the part number.
Poge
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Was hoping to split the one set last night but got sidetracked. Here's a great thread on the subject with lots of other great info, too.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/159558.htm
I'm going to try the uni-strut/two-jaw puller approach for the splitting and the wood stove trick (great tip!) on the case halves for putting it back together with the bearings cooled in the fridge -- or even outside if it gets cold enough this weekend.
FWIW, I use a dual-threaded Bosch flywheel puller from the Treatland moped guys that fits most Stihl saws and a MityVac 8500 for my vac/pres stuff.
Poge
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Great work there CWME. It looks like it's coming along well. :hmm3grin2orange:
Uni-Strut Case Splitter
Gave it a shot and it worked. The setup is obviously a no brainer if you have the uni-strut stock available and a simple two-jaw puller.
(Heavier uni-strut than what I had on hand recommended.)
Where I started getting a little nervous was when the uni-strut started to give as pictured below. Gave the puller one more little turn and the case finally separated before the stock pulled through or let loose. I'd use the same rig again on a smaller case, but a heavier duty stock (or approach) would be highly recommended for anything larger.
Hope ya don't think I'm trying to hijack. Just hoping to contribute and learn a little bit with everyone as I peck away at my own pair of 036's.
Poge
Gave it a shot and it worked. The setup is obviously a no brainer if you have the uni-strut stock available and a simple two-jaw puller.
(Heavier uni-strut than what I had on hand recommended.)
Where I started getting a little nervous was when the uni-strut started to give as pictured below. Gave the puller one more little turn and the case finally separated before the stock pulled through or let loose. I'd use the same rig again on a smaller case, but a heavier duty stock (or approach) would be highly recommended for anything larger.
Hope ya don't think I'm trying to hijack. Just hoping to contribute and learn a little bit with everyone as I peck away at my own pair of 036's.
Poge
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CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Hope ya don't think I'm trying to hijack. Just hoping to contribute and learn a little bit with everyone as I peck away at my own pair of 036's.
Poge
Not hijacking at all. Post that stuff all you want! Looking good! Should be a pretty good thread for building up a 036 by the time we are all done:hmm3grin2orange: Thanks for sharing!
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Didn't have much time tonight with the snow storm that rolled through. Had to plow and clean up. Got the intake and exhaust cleaned up a little. The ports were only raised or lowered, no widening was done by the person who ported it initially. I opened those up to the limits of what I feel safe with. Still have some final clean up to do there. I also got all the brown sealer that was all over the bottom of the cylinder cleaned up. Should get the cylinder back on tomorrow night.
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Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
just subscribing since i own one of these awesome saws 
opcorn:
opcorn:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Didn't have the heat tape on the case. I didn't have the OEM part but I did have some aluminum duct tape that I use in bullet casting. Should do the same job as the OEM stuff.
I need to find something a little more pliable for vac testing than the gasket material that I have on hand. I couldn't get it to hold a vaccum.
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CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Matched the muffler and gaskets to the exhaust port. Sealing up the jug.
Stuff I have been using for a base seal. Some damage on the old fuel line.
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[video=youtube;E1uZQ4tyAhY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1uZQ4tyAhY[/video]
Only had some pine to test in. Had to lean on it pretty good in the last cut to stall it. Rakers are set fairly low to make it a little more challenging for the saw. Running 3/8 RSC on 18" bar, 7 pin.
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CWME
ArboristSite Guru
I had to get back into the carb before making the video. I either didn't press in the welch plug enough or I had the metering valve set too high. I could just get a .009 feeler in without moving the lever. However it was rich to the point that I could not lean it with the needles. So I lowered the meter a bit and pressed a few more points on the welch plug and it cleared up. Saw is running very well now. Big change from when I got it. I still need to open up the stock exhaust port under the deflector. It has a decent sized stock port but a little more can't hurt.
Feels like my 260 for handling but definately has more motor
I think this will be the saw I grab the most. Light and powerful.
Still waiting on parts to put the other one back together. Hope those parts come in the first part of the week.
Feels like my 260 for handling but definately has more motor
I think this will be the saw I grab the most. Light and powerful.Still waiting on parts to put the other one back together. Hope those parts come in the first part of the week.
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Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
036 saw rebuild with pics and video for proof... thats a for sure rep!!!!
The main purpose of the reflective foil is to protect the case gasket where it sits under the muffler.
So just about anything will work there- it doesn't have to be the factory foil.
Stihl started doing that back in the mid 80's after the 064 and 084 initially came out. A lot of case gaskets
failed and then the case would leak bar oil up under the muffler and make a real mess. It happened
more on the 084 than any other saw since the 084's case is so long.
The Huskies haven't had that problem because their crankcases and case gaskets are a lot thicker in that
area under the muffler.
So just about anything will work there- it doesn't have to be the factory foil.
Stihl started doing that back in the mid 80's after the 064 and 084 initially came out. A lot of case gaskets
failed and then the case would leak bar oil up under the muffler and make a real mess. It happened
more on the 084 than any other saw since the 084's case is so long.
The Huskies haven't had that problem because their crankcases and case gaskets are a lot thicker in that
area under the muffler.
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Good to know that my substitute foil will get the job done. I figured that it had to be there for a reason. Interesting to know the history of why they started putting it on the saws.
I know this thread is pretty basic stuff so far. I figured having it all in one thread might be helpful for someone down the road. The only thing I forgot to show was how I measured the squish band. It is at .025 without a gasket BTW. I will have to get shots of that on the next saw coming up.
I just got another box of parts that I ordered from the net for the non pro 036. Really just waiting on the crank bearings from the dealer so I can get the cases back together and document that process. Going to keep that one with the stock porting for now so I can have something to compare the ported one too.
I know this thread is pretty basic stuff so far. I figured having it all in one thread might be helpful for someone down the road. The only thing I forgot to show was how I measured the squish band. It is at .025 without a gasket BTW. I will have to get shots of that on the next saw coming up.
I just got another box of parts that I ordered from the net for the non pro 036. Really just waiting on the crank bearings from the dealer so I can get the cases back together and document that process. Going to keep that one with the stock porting for now so I can have something to compare the ported one too.
Nice work.
Slow going here since splitting the first case. Been trying to get better organized for what needs to be done -- which primarily has involved lots of time with the parts washer and some new solvent getting stuff ready to go back together, not to mention easier to work with.
So what's the method of bearing removal for the one still in the case and removal of the crank/bearing from the other half -- when you don't have all the factory Stihl tools? Somehow "a bigger hammer" doesn't seem like it would be they way to go!
I've done a little searching, but it didn't yield much. I'm going to guess heat and sockets of the respective sizes tapping them out if you don't have a press? Still seems like there'd be a chance to damage the case going that route. And if a press is the preferred method, any recommendations on one that wouldn't break the bank?
Poge
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
I used a Dayton 1 ton arbor press that I got at Grainger for $92 out the door. I went with the Dayton because it has a much bigger throat than the harbor freight stuff. I took a 2X4 chunk of cherry and cut a circle at one end to press out the crank. I used a flat spot on the board to press out the bearings. I will grab some pictures tonight.
timmcat
ArboristSite Operative
Crank removal
Google Husqvarna case splitter tool, its basically a couple of c-clamps that share the same pressure screw. If you like to build stuff then use it for your basis and whip one up. I use mine on every saw that needs casework. On the swedish stuff it works great, on the stihls and some of the japanese stuff you need to coax the base of the tool into the case, but it works slick. Sorrry for the lack of picture but I'm eating lunch at work and dont have a camera or time handy. Oh and cool build, brings back the memories of my 1st build.
Google Husqvarna case splitter tool, its basically a couple of c-clamps that share the same pressure screw. If you like to build stuff then use it for your basis and whip one up. I use mine on every saw that needs casework. On the swedish stuff it works great, on the stihls and some of the japanese stuff you need to coax the base of the tool into the case, but it works slick. Sorrry for the lack of picture but I'm eating lunch at work and dont have a camera or time handy. Oh and cool build, brings back the memories of my 1st build.
