036 Build Projects, Crank, Bearings, Carbs etc etc
- Thread starter CWME
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah yeah I know. Hopefully being this deep into the thread this question won't start a pi$$ing contest. Didn't know if the OEM clips would fit the meteor or if I was stuck with the AM clips.
Well, I wonder the same thing about the whole circlip subject and stirred the pot a bit over on the Meteor thread.
The big question is, "if they both fit exactly the same and you can physically establish the fact that they do, and you had a bag full of each from which to make your choice, but didn't know which was OEM and which was aftermarket, which would you choose?
:bang:
Poge
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Hell I am just a chainsaw rookie, I have no way of knowing either way. When you read posts from well established guys/builders on here that will not use AM clips makes a guy wonder. I don't want to junk a nice P+C if it can be avoided. I have AM clips in my 440 and haven't had any issue yet. But if it is $3 to get a clip in there that is a known entity why not?
FWIW, (and you probably already have this info), the OEM clip part number is 9463-650-1000 for Stihl's 10mm pins. 9463-650-1200 for 12mm pins. A buck apiece at one of my local dealers.
And I also used the supplied clips with a Meteor kit for my 044 without any problems so far. Same with an 028 and a Husky 55.
Poge
parrisw
Tree Freak
I haven't had an issue yet with Meteor clips. I won't use any other aftermarket clip though.
So back to cranks and bearings...
Did you use a band saw for that? My little jigsaw wasn't too happy about trying the same thing on an old piece of barn oak!:hmm3grin2orange:
Poge
As mentioned I used a piece of cherry 2X4 I got from a pallet. Figured hardwood would stand up better than a normal 2x4.
Did you use a band saw for that? My little jigsaw wasn't too happy about trying the same thing on an old piece of barn oak!:hmm3grin2orange:
Poge
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am running for cover on this one...and still looking for answers myself.
Is the jury out or in, I don't want to seem confused but the waters are
still muddled for me. I wish you well! :help:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Last edited:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Yep, blew a fuse in my scroll saw so went to the band saw. Band saw had a 1/2 ripping blade in it so that was fun. Ended up making a bunch of cuts to the lines and then cleaning it up with a chisel and wood rasp. Was going to just use a hole saw and drill press but couldn't find it at the time of course. Nothing comes easy in a messy shop, found the hole saw on my way out of the shop after taking 30 minutes to cut a stupid hole in a board:hmm3grin2orange:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
The pictures of junked cylinders and pistons made me think it was at least worth asking about.
+1 -- and ditto on thanks for weighing in.
And not that I have a ton of experience, but as mentioned in the other thread, I have used cheaper aftermarket kits twice and the clips were not usable in either one (for different reasons with each kit). I ended up re-using the original OEM clips at the time because they were all I had, though I do intend to replace them with new OEM now that I have a few extras on hand.
Now if I could only find my hole saw.....:msp_tongue:
Poge
parrisw
Tree Freak
I've reused OEM ones many times. Never an issue, they hold their spring very well. Only compress them as little as needed. The worst ones by far are the golf ones. They loose their spring just installing them.
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
Measuring squish, smaller one on left wasn't against cylinder wall, one on right was and measures .018
Homemade wire harness. Took a couple of crimp couplers apart for the metal crimp tube. Crimped and soldered this onto the wire. I had to take a dremel and let the stone roll around the tube to reduce the diameter a bit. I did a little and tested fit in the fittings. Used a bit of heat shrink tubing and viola wire harnes. I had the stuff already, if you had to buy the stuff it would be cheaper to buy the part from the dealer.
Figured this stuff was worth showing.
View attachment 218506View attachment 218507View attachment 218508View attachment 218509View attachment 218510
Last edited:
CWME
ArboristSite Guru
View attachment 218511
Update, pulled the piston out of the pro and put it in the non pro. That jug is plain stock btw. Put the jug on to test squish and get a compression reading. Compression in this jug is 155PSI. Squish is tighter by .07 but would that make up 25 PSI? If so I need to figure out how to deck the cylinder on the pro.
Hoping comp will go up a little more with some fresh rings once they come in. Also hoping that comp in the pro will be better than 130 with the new piston and rings.
Update, pulled the piston out of the pro and put it in the non pro. That jug is plain stock btw. Put the jug on to test squish and get a compression reading. Compression in this jug is 155PSI. Squish is tighter by .07 but would that make up 25 PSI? If so I need to figure out how to deck the cylinder on the pro.
Hoping comp will go up a little more with some fresh rings once they come in. Also hoping that comp in the pro will be better than 130 with the new piston and rings.
Last edited:
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very nice write up with good photos. Well done, especially the wiring harness.
FWIW, when checking squish you should check it in multiple places at one time to prevent the piston from rocking in the cylinder. Maybe you did but in case you did not.
FWIW, when checking squish you should check it in multiple places at one time to prevent the piston from rocking in the cylinder. Maybe you did but in case you did not.
So about my crank/bearing alignment question back in post #76...
Anyone have a take, remedy, or suggestion?
I know a dial gauge and set of v-blocks would tell me if the crank was out of the case and the bearings were already on it, but that's not the approach I want to take and then have to put the case back together with the bearings on the crank like CWME did -- and would do it differently if he had to do it over again!:msp_smile:
Thanks in advance for any input.
Poge
Anyone have a take, remedy, or suggestion?
I know a dial gauge and set of v-blocks would tell me if the crank was out of the case and the bearings were already on it, but that's not the approach I want to take and then have to put the case back together with the bearings on the crank like CWME did -- and would do it differently if he had to do it over again!:msp_smile:
Thanks in advance for any input.
Poge
parrisw
Tree Freak
If the bearing is seated all the way its straight. Once it's together spin the crank does it spin freely or does it feel like its binding a little? Now give it a good wack on each side of the crank, this centers it, sounds bad, but that's how it's done. I use a dead blow or a hard plastic hammer. Even if I feel the crank is spinning free, I still give it a few whacks to make sure.
Thanks for the response.
It feels fine and spins freely. Just not turning quite true and is most obvious on the clutch side, not as much on the flywheel side.
So how do you secure the case for this particular (ahem) "adjustment"?
Just hold it in one hand and smack it with a hammer with the other, or maybe set it in/on a vise somehow?
Poge
Thanks for the response.
It feels fine and spins freely. Just not turning quite true and is most obvious on the clutch side, not as much on the flywheel side.
So how do you secure the case for this particular (ahem) "adjustment"?
Just hold it in one hand and smack it with a hammer with the other, or maybe set it in/on a vise somehow?
Poge
Just hold it in your hand. That's why old-time saw mechanics have meaty paws.
If you clamp it in a vise you run a real risk of damaging something.
