036 Build Projects, Crank, Bearings, Carbs etc etc

[CWME]

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Take it easy pressing the flywheel side bearing out. I used a 13mm socket but make sure when it lets loose you don't smash the case. The clutch side was done with a 25mm socket. I did them both from the outside in, as in the bearing was pressed into the case. That gives you the flat mating surface of the case to rest on the board as you are pressing. As mentioned I used a piece of cherry 2X4 I got from a pallet. Figured hardwood would stand up better than a normal 2x4.

 

[CWME]

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Pogo,
If the bearing sticks with the crank on the way out you can use a gear puller. Sears sells a nice 2 jaw puller for $30. I actually just got their 3 jaw puller the other day. I found it in the returns and marked down isle. $20 for a $50 puller, couldn't leave it there...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Very cool. Looks like the same Dayton press I was considering and Grainger is only 45 minutes from me. And I already have the puller from the case-splitting if the bearing hangs on the crank during removal.

Out of curiosity, did you do the clutch drum/bearing upgrade on the one you just finished?

Poge

 

[CWME]

Doh, you do have a gear puller don't you:msp_w00t:

I have not upgraded the clutch and needle bearing yet. I put some grease on it for the short term. Not going to be cutting wood for a while so hopefully I will have the $ by the time I start processing next years wood.

I forgot to mention that I had to clamp the press to the bench to get enough leverage. You can see in the photo that I mounted it to a piece of plywood.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

excellent information, and picture documented

Thanks for this thread! It allows us to see the shop-wise innovations, and inexpensive ways to make these fixes. I have scrolled through every aspect and enjoyed it! opcorn: Keep it coming!

 

[atpchas]

This press from HF (6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press) has been adequate so far. It would be better with more vertical space to work with, but I've managed to squeeze all the case halves into it I've needed to. Price isn't bad, especially if you use one of the ubiquitous 20% off coupons. I especially like the fine control I get with the hydraulic jack.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

This press from HF (6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press) has been adequate so far. It would be better with more vertical space to work with, but I've managed to squeeze all the case halves into it I've needed to. Price isn't bad, especially if you use one of the ubiquitous 20% off coupons. I especially like the fine control I get with the hydraulic jack.

Thanks for the link/info. It was almost a toss-up between the two, but I ended up pulling the trigger on the Dayton even though it cost a little more. Smaller is better in my current shop environment and I also have a chunk o' bench I can modify to accommodate the rascal in a similar fashion to how CWME fashioned his 2X4 cherry jig without using up too much bench surface when it's all said and done. Plus it has just a little more working range -- at least as compared in the published specs between the two.

Poge

 

[CWME]

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I used a socket and a touch of greese on the flywheel side bearing. I heated the bearing up a little bit until it was hot to the touch but I could still pick it up bare handed. Tapped it onto the crank gently with the socket. The clutch side was heated in the same mannor and a little greese applied to the crank. I used the old bearings and the clutch to press the bearing on. I got it started by lightly tapping on the old bearing. I then used the clutch and it slid on the crank with no issue. Look closely in the photo and you will see that the clutch is nut side in.

I pre-heated the cases in the duct work over the wood furnace. I turned the blower off and let them sit up there for about 10 minutes. I had to wear gloves to handle them. The flywheel side went in with no issue after a little localized heating with the heat gun. Dropped in with a clunk.

 

[CWME]

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[CWME]

Put bushing on right over crank resting against case, thread clutch onto crank.
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Clutch side handed me my rear end. I was thinking that I could use the case screws to pull everything together. Kinda sorta worked but the bearing went in a little crooked this way. Backed the screws off and rapped the case with a dead blow to straighten it out. I then made the bushing shown in the photos. I used a 1 1/4 pipe coupler cut down to 1". The clutch was then used again to pull the bearing and crank this time. I again had to have the clutch inboard and got it far enough to where I could turn the clutch around and use a wrench. I had to put a rubber screw driver between the crank and case to keep the crank from spinning. I was gentle with the wrenching and it eventually popped a bit and the bearing slid in a bit. I backed it all out and put the oil pump in to check depth. I kept working it in a bit at a time.

 

[CWME]

DONE! If I had to do over again I would follow my original plan and put the bearings into the cases first and worry about the crank after. The crank spins over without any hitching so I didn't damage anything but I didn't do it any favors with the side loading. Live and learn.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

DONE! If I had to do over again I would follow my original plan and put the bearings into the cases first and worry about the crank after. The crank spins over without any hitching so I didn't damage anything but I didn't do it any favors with the side loading. Live and learn.

I'll take your advice to heart!

Nice work.

Poge

 

[Somesawguy]

Great work on that saw. I see that lathe is coming in pretty handy for this project. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Jacob J.]

DONE! If I had to do over again I would follow my original plan and put the bearings into the cases first and worry about the crank after. The crank spins over without any hitching so I didn't damage anything but I didn't do it any favors with the side loading. Live and learn.

That's how we do it at the dealership and how Stihl and Husqvarna trains its' technicians- put the bearings in the case halves first, then press it all together.
That way you run minimal risks of getting a bearing in the case crooked and ruining the case.

I have a 385 case here that I got from another member. They had a friend install the bearings and he got the PTO side bearing in
crooked and ruined that side of the case. As you can imagine, a new case is expensive. A 385 case is near to $300 at the shop.

 

[timmcat]

Yup, bearings in the cases first then crank into bearings, that way your pulling steel against steel and not stressing the cases at all.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's how we do it at the dealership and how Stihl and Husqvarna trains its' technicians- put the bearings in the case halves first, then press it all together.
That way you run minimal risks of getting a bearing in the case crooked and ruining the case.

I have a 385 case here that I got from another member. They had a friend install the bearings and he got the PTO side bearing in
crooked and ruined that side of the case. As you can imagine, a new case is expensive. A 385 case is near to $300 at the shop.

Probably a stupid question, but how can you tell if a bearing is installed crooked before the crank is re-installed and the case put back together?

I've read about putting a couple of raps on the crank with a brass hammer to "seat it" or "center it" if it isn't straight or has a slight bit of wobble. Doesn't seem like a very precise method -- and an after the fact one at that.

One of the 036's I have on the bench just recently had the bearings replaced by someone else, but the crank isn't sitting/spinning true for one reason or another. I'm hesitant to start whacking at it with a hammer to "fix it", but also hesitant to pull the whole thing apart again if it isn't necessary.

Any suggestions?

As usual, TIA.

Poge

 

[CWME]

That's how we do it at the dealership and how Stihl and Husqvarna trains its' technicians- put the bearings in the case halves first, then press it all together.
That way you run minimal risks of getting a bearing in the case crooked and ruining the case.

I have a 385 case here that I got from another member. They had a friend install the bearings and he got the PTO side bearing in
crooked and ruined that side of the case. As you can imagine, a new case is expensive. A 385 case is near to $300 at the shop.

I would say I got lucky and noticed that the bearing was not going in straight. I was taking everything slow so I noticed it. Unfortunately I had limited time last night and I should have waited to put the bearings in the cases. Got wondering how much force it was going to take to press the bearings onto the crank and ended up installing them:rolleyes2: I really should have just waited until today when I had more time to play with it. Oh well, hopefully she holds together and I don't run into any issues with my impatient ways. I will know what not to do on the next one.

On the up side the bushing and clutch trick would be the ticket if I were only pulling the crank into the bearing. By using the old bearings and clutch it took a little effort but not very mutch to press the bearing in.

All a learning process and I made a mistake and got lucky. Run time on the saw will tell how lucky I am.

Update on the 036 Pro. Compression only rose to 130 PSI after I put the jug back on with a good sealer. I think the plug in the decomp valve wasn't sealing 100% either but still have a long way to go with this saw. I ordered a new meteor piston kit from Northwood to put in. The old piston and a new set of caber rings will go in the non pro build. I got to looking at the scuffed piston for the non pro build and I don't want to chance it. The top ring has a flat spot in it and I really had to sand the skirt to get the scratches out. Cheap $ to get a good running saw in the end. So the Pro will be torn down to get the piston out. Going to open up the muffler port while it is torn apart.

Just got a call from the dealer and the rest of my parts are in. Hope to make some progess getting the non pro back into running shape. I am still missing some small stuff but need to get a list together. Only thing coming to mind at the moment is the exhaust shield, bar nuts, front rubber av mount, and some misc bolts.

As a side note, Carb kits are expensive. $22 for a zama kit... :bang:

 

[CWME]

Some pics of it going back together. Just about to a point where most people would tear a saw down. So I think the photos are done until she is running. I will get a video up once that happens. Might be a few days depending on how long it takes to get the last few parts I need in.

 

[CWME]

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[CWME]

Anyone know what I need to use for the circlips on the meteor piston?