2101xp/ top all time muscle saws!!!!!!!!!!!

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I sure give a scat my friend!:clap: Glad it's on the road. Some guy's over look those saw's. Not as good for them in 16 inch log's I guess LOL!:msp_w00t: Right on Jim.
 
Not to many enthusiasts around here, most folks judge a chainsaw by the length of bar it wears. Which in turn means that most folks don't enjoy a good chainsaw or wood cutting story. Like the time I asked a fellow with a old tiller to hang onto the spark plug while I pulled the rope so I could check for spark. I did not have to look at the spark plug to see that the coil was in good shape.
 
I must clarify that in my previous story the fellow is a good friend of mine and a diesel mechanic-farmer and he still held onto the connected spark plug. The look on his face was priceless as he realized the folly of his ways a second too late.
 
i finely broke down and put a new air filter on my 2100. and now i havent had any luck geting it tuned right.
 
How did it run before? What is it doing?
it ran great cut like no other saw i ever run. the airfilter was gettin a little wprn so i orderd a new one and was cutin the day before the filter got here all the sudden it just kinda fell off and wouldnt idle.i cleaned the carb,oh yeah the nylon manifold was broke and the stud that held it on was broke too(they looked like they had been broke for a while) so i got a new one of those.got it all back together and now i just havent been abble to get it run righthow far do you back the high and low screws out to get it ready to tune? is about 1 turn like the stihl?

your not trying to tune out the govenor ?
well that shows what kind of mechanic i am. i didnt know it had a governor

Check for the string...
that was a no strings atached deal with this saw :yoyo:
 
I ran the 394 this weekend in the Alaskan mill with a 36" Cannon bar.I was milling up an Alder that was 14' long and 26" dia. The 394 had way more power than the 2100 but the oiler could not pump enough oil for the 36" bar.I switched to the 2101 and life was good, A little less power but lots of oil.
Last week i went to change bars on the 2101 and noticed lots of side play in the crank.I pulled the cylinder and noticed the crank was blown apart at the connecting rod.They had replaced the stock cylinder gasket with a thinner one.There was a shiny ring at the top of the cylinder where the piston was contacting.Lucky I had a spare case and crank and got the saw up and running.When assembling I noticed also I had put the wrong gasket at the carb base. It was the gray one that came with the carb kit.it did not cover the impulse groove cut in the plastic manifold.I replaced it with the big old green gasket.Now I was able to tune the saw easily to the correct RPM.

during the 2100's life there was a revised and updated crankcase....this requires that years and on cylinders, it is not very noticable...as alot of these saws get thrown together from parts I wonder if there was any issues........
 
Hmmm. Mine had a blown crankseal oiler side, found that with help from some member's here. But my problem was not being able to idle, then it did a 180 on me, and the idle was way high. It was weird. I know they made a upgraded seal. Mine doesn't have the brass plug, governor. Was told they updated the carb on the late one's. I can't remember the adjustment's though. That suck's hope you figure it out.:confused:
 
From the 2100 manual H = 1.0 turn open and L = 1.2 turn open.Make sure gasket you have under carb covers impulse groove in manifold.That gasket is usually green.Pull fuel line off carb and tip saw on its side and check for good flow from fuel line.
 
Oops the label on the starter says 2101xp .The tag on the original case says 2101W. The tag on the new case says 2100CD. The parts interchange so easily these saws can get confusing fast.
 
hA! tOO funny, wasn't trying to correct ya, I was just trying to see if that was something I didn't know. I do hear, and see alot of people to interchage part's. Nice that's a option. I really got lucky the one I found does not have too many hours. And it's all original. Im glad I didn't pass it up.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
From the 2100 manual H = 1.0 turn open and L = 1.2 turn open.Make sure gasket you have under carb covers impulse groove in manifold.That gasket is usually green.Pull fuel line off carb and tip saw on its side and check for good flow from fuel line.

didnt pay attention to the color of the gasket but i did put the hole in line with the groove.so next chance i get ill flip that over and see if that does it.the gasket stuck to the carb when i pulled it off then it fell off so i never had a good chance to see how it was on there.
thanks
i hope thats all i did wrong
 
ok the green carb to manifold gasket has a hole on both sides so no matter wich way i put it on it lines up with the groove.looked evrything over put it back together. shame its to late here to fire it up so now its gota bother me all night to wait and fire it up in the morning and see if i can get it running right.
 
It's always a bit tempting when I get a saw back together in the evening or early morning.:msp_rolleyes:
 

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