661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
when it comes to the lucas oil next time actually touch the piston and exhaust port with your finger. the oil dries to a goo when the saw cools kinda like what winterizing oil does to an outboard or any other 2 stroke. i've ran and been into a few saws now that have ran it and there is always oil in the case. if you wanna see a film of oil on your piston fire it up and just run it for a few seconds then pull muffler off the check again. lucas does leave oil. not sure why it dries to a gooey film in the top end after a heat cycle but it would sure be good for saws that sit for long periods of time. after seeing what the crew's here run i have been alot less picky about the oil i run. like alot less. i've even been running a little of the budget **** off the shelf at gas stations. it's hard to give up 32:1 though but i have been contemplating switching to 50:1 as the falling crews run that and their saws last way longer then anyone would expect.

not only did I touch them. After words I very carefully cleaned the exhaust port up etc with qtips and mineral spirits. Also cleaned up the muffler. So I could check things again with the next oil I try.

there was no goo on my piston...it was almost dry and I checked right away. Furthermore at posted earlier...I did it 3 times. Couple of times after cutting and once after letting it idle for a while.

Oil just isn't oil. Quality and the formulations vary GREATLY! - If I was running lucas or some of these other cheaper 2t oils...bet yer azz I'd be running 32:1. No doubt about it. Higher quality stuff motul, maxmia, klotz, belray I'd be running 45-50:1. (note: motul, klotz, belray have all said either I should run 50:1 or it's no problem to run their oils (800, h1r, r50) @ 50:1)

Right now I'm running Stihl Ultra 50:1 to double check how things "should" look and will take pics of that.
 
what about the stihl orange bottle? i know it is a solid oil and many have ran it for years.
 
not only did I touch them. After words I very carefully cleaned the exhaust port up etc with qtips and mineral spirits. Also cleaned up the muffler. So I could check things again with the next oil I try.

there was no goo on my piston...it was almost dry and I checked right away. Furthermore at posted earlier...I did it 3 times. Couple of times after cutting and once after letting it idle for a while.

Oil just isn't oil. Quality and the formulations vary GREATLY! - If I was running lucas or some of these other cheaper 2t oils...bet yer azz I'd be running 32:1. No doubt about it. Higher quality stuff motul, maxmia, belray I'd be running 45-50:1.

Right now I'm running Stihl Ultra 50:1 to double check how things "should" look and will take pics of that.

might just be the 661 then cause my autotune husky's leave the goo on the piston. it's grosse the touch. clings the fingers like tree sap although in a much finer film. anyone can run what they like but one thing is for certain. if the fallers and shake blockers here can run generic **** with cheapest fuel available at 50:1 (in 661's to by the way) i don't think you or anyone else here have anything to worry about with whatever you choose. i am glad to have put my oil over thinking to rest. ran company mix in a few of my saws for 2 months and they are all just fine.
 
Thats a BIG assumption ................ I wonder if the plug is white too ?
I dont agree with you on the muffler, I have been doing this 2 cycle repair stuff since the early 80's ................. white mufflers are a precurser to an early death IMHO
Huge assumption based on what I have seen here..
Never seen a white muffler but tan and dry is perfect. My Autotune Husky runs like this at 32:1 as it should.
 
You are really liking this Dumonde oil eh ?
Running the dtp with red label right now ,i am thinking it is overkill for a saw ,it is gold so hard to see in the fuel ,if the blue stuff would work in my saw ,i will run that ,looks sort of like the lucas stuff ,but who knows ,i do not understand the msds sheets
 
not only did I touch them. After words I very carefully cleaned the exhaust port up etc with qtips and mineral spirits. Also cleaned up the muffler. So I could check things again with the next oil I try.

there was no goo on my piston...it was almost dry and I checked right away. Furthermore at posted earlier...I did it 3 times. Couple of times after cutting and once after letting it idle for a while.

Oil just isn't oil. Quality and the formulations vary GREATLY! - If I was running lucas or some of these other cheaper 2t oils...bet yer azz I'd be running 32:1. No doubt about it. Higher quality stuff motul, maxmia, klotz, belray I'd be running 45-50:1. (note: motul, klotz, belray have all said either I should run 50:1 or it's no problem to run their oils (800, h1r, r50) @ 50:1)

Right now I'm running Stihl Ultra 50:1 to double check how things "should" look and will take pics of that.
I would disagree with you. Most oils out there are pretty good when used in the correct application. There are a few exceptions..but not many. A guy could really make his life simple by just running a FC/Fd oil and forget about it.
 
i have never emailed any company customer service and got a knowledgeable response right off the bat. they usually have people who know how to fill out orders, handle complaints and know the very basics about the products the company sells. in my experience it takes a phone call and a request to talk to a tech to get any meaningful info and even then getting an actualy tech on the phone is hard.. can we all agree that? i do agree with redbull when it comes to oils not all being developed the same. satisfactory is satisfactory though. outside of AS belray, maxima, amsoil, etc........ are pretty well unheard of to be used in a chainsaw. most people will just buy the manufacturers oil or the cheapest thing they can. here there is a TCW3 oil at the local gas station called "sonic" that says on the back mix 100:1. IMO this oil is pretty generic and i would doubt very much that the company actually makes it. they also have another air cooled oil that says mix 50:1. the good thing is it's crazy cheap and plentyful. i have ran it in my saws recently at 32:1 and notice it actually pukes oil out the muffler at that ratio. is it just a dirty oil or am i using it in excess? lucas, stihl, and husky oil don't do that. i'm thinking i'm gonna try it at 50:1. one of my buddies lives on an island where i'm from and has been mixing the TCW3 sonic oil at 100:1 for his old yammy outboard and running that same mix in all of his saws for years. i try telling him he's nuts but his saws all have great compression and still run good. so not only is he running a TCW3 oil he's running it at a ratio that is heavily frowned upon here even when running amsoil. don't get me wrong though. i still would not recommend it nor use it myself at that ratio. his fuel looks like straight gas and i guarentee he cuts alot more wood then anyone here. the bullbucker i have a potential job with coming up september and i were having a ******** over a beer and i brought up oil mix and what he uses. his response was he didn't want to hear it and proceeded to tell a quick overview of the oil debate amongst the people he has and has had in the past work for him. he runs an oil called tech2000 in regular pump gas as his crew mix at 50:1. he pays as little as $2.89 a litre for the stuff and has always done his crew good so he continues to use it. my buddy who works for this guy already has 390 huskies that are 2 year old production falling saws that still run fine and have always ran that mix from day one.
 
what about the stihl orange bottle? i know it is a solid oil and many have ran it for years.
That's all I've used in 2-stroke OPE (of any brand) for over 25 years... always mixed per label instructions (i.e., 40:1 during the late 80s and early 90s, then 50:1 after that when Stihl changed it).
I've never had an oil related problem with it... never even needed to clean a spark arrestor screen.
I believe the two concerns most often voiced are the fact that it ain't a synthetic (is synthetic really needed for small 2-stroke OPE??) and the label states "meets or exceeds JASO FB" (which is pretty standard for a dino oil, typically it takes a synthetic or synthetic blend to meet the smoke and soap requirements of FC/FD).
I keep using it because it's always worked... and if it ain't broke, I see no reason to fix it... I don't mind a tiny bit of smoke, and the gasoline now-a-days has enough detergent in it I can't see where having more in the oil matters sour owl squat.
Although, admittedly, and if it matters, all of my 2-stroke OPE is old enough to wear fully adjustable carburetors... I "tune by ear".
I do own a tach, but I only use it for setting governor limits on 4-stroke OPE.
*
 
talked to klotz for a bit.

they were really big on the outside temp affecting what oil to use techniplate 50:1 (lessor viscosity) or R50 (heavier viscosity) and what mix ratio depending on what kind of load you putting on the saw. Said 50:1 for regular work...possibly 40:1 if I was pulling 36" bar all day.

That all makes sense to me. But...


Interesting thing is - I've asked if I needed a heavier ratio with a ported saw. So far the answers have been

Klotz - no
amsoil - no
belray - pretty sure said no...will have to ask.
lucas - no

wtf - lol
 
That's all I've used in 2-stroke OPE (of any brand) for over 25 years... always mixed per label instructions (i.e., 40:1 during the late 80s and early 90s, then 50:1 after that when Stihl changed it).
I've never had an oil related problem with it... never even needed to clean a spark arrestor screen.
I believe the two concerns most often voiced are the fact that it ain't a synthetic (is synthetic really needed for small 2-stroke OPE??) and the label states "meets or exceeds JASO FB" (which is pretty standard for a dino oil, typically it takes a synthetic or synthetic blend to meet the smoke and soap requirements of FC/FD).
I keep using it because it's always worked... and if it ain't broke, I see no reason to fix it... I don't mind a tiny bit of smoke, and the gasoline now-a-days has enough detergent in it I can't see where having more in the oil matters sour owl squat.
Although, admittedly, and if it matters, all of my 2-stroke OPE is old enough to wear fully adjustable carburetors... I "tune by ear".
I do own a tach, but I only use it for setting governor limits on 4-stroke OPE.
*
the price has really jumped in recent years a 1 gallon mix bottle of it is 3.49 around here.
 
talked to klotz for a bit.

they were really big on the outside temp affecting what oil to use techniplate 50:1 (lessor viscosity) or R50 (heavier viscosity) and what mix ratio depending on what kind of load you putting on the saw. Said 50:1 for regular work...possibly 40:1 if I was pulling 36" bar all day.

Interesting thing - I've asked if I needed a heavier ratio with a ported saw. So far the answers have been

Klotz - no
amsoil - no
belray - pretty sure said no...will have to ask.
lucas - no

wtf - lol
Its likely none of these guys you have talked to know which end of a chainsaw is which. And they typically won't waste money having an engineer staff the tech line...
 
i have never emailed any company customer service and got a knowledgeable response right off the bat. they usually have people who know how to fill out orders, handle complaints and know the very basics about the products the company sells. in my experience it takes a phone call and a request to talk to
THIS!
Yammy outboards btw spec a 100:1 mix ratio. However, when I ran a fleet of them commercially I always thought they maintained full power longer when ran at 50:1.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top