661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The jug has mixtures on it. Why you would even think 36:1 would be different enough to make it worth the effort. Evaporation test is a lot less complicated and you haven't done it yet.

the difference between 32:1 and 36:1 is 12% less oil. 12% is huge in the world of statistics and probabilities. and btw 36:1 ran faster than 32:1. Figure that one out.
 
You guys are the ones with your panties all up in a bunch cuz I didn't like your oil. You sure aren't open minded about anything either.

All you've done is make excuses as to why there isn't oil on the piston skirt. Instead of well gee maybe he's on to something and maybe if we can buy other oils for the same price that are LIKELY higher quality...maybe we should give those a try and maybe they'll have oil in the bottom end and on the piston. Novel idea!




so yer telling me after all this reserach... Lucas the cheap injector oil is the BEST you could find for your saws??!?!?!? omg
It's not injector oil. And if you believe that higher price correlated to higher quality then ignorance truly is bliss.
 
the difference between 32:1 and 36:1 is 12% less oil. 12% is huge in the world of statistics and probabilities. and btw 36:1 ran faster than 32:1. Figure that one out.
In your 661 whoopdee f#**in doo. You won't even pull the cylinder off the saw. So what actual information do you have that you feel makes it better than 32:1 or even 50:1 other than pure opinion and speculation?
 
It actually is an injector oil that can be used as a premix oil,like all injector oils.
But to classify it purely as a misuse and strictly injector oil is just Redbulls way to try and discredit someone who disagrees with his opinions. Until he pulls the cylinder or does an evaporation test he'll never see the benefits of it.
 
Ok so i have to change my mind on lucas fd oil. I have ran 4 qts of it thru 2 of my saws a poulas 3314 42cc strato and echo 452vl at 32:1 with 89 no ethanol. It burns real clean but my pistons look real dry with little oil on them. I didnt believe redbull when he said thats how it looked on his saw. I had to pull a couple mufflers and see for myself. They are dry as a popcorn fart. So i am done with it for now, gotta find something else.
Lucas two cycle oil looks thin as water in the bottle, so I kept away from the stuff. IMHO Lucas products are of poor quality. Some testing has been done on their regular motor oils, the results were less than favorable.
 
Lucas two cycle oil looks thin as water in the bottle, so I kept away from the stuff. IMHO Lucas products are of poor quality. Some testing has been done on their regular motor oils, the results were less than favorable.
While I disagree with your opinion on the quality of Lucas Semi synthetic, I appreciate the fact you said it's your personal opinion.
 
You guys are the ones with your panties all up in a bunch cuz I didn't like your oil. You sure aren't open minded about anything either.
Actually neither one of these statements are true, I have actually gotten some good laughs, a couple head shakes and maybe an eye roll out of this thread. (I thank you for that)
Also I have never stated what oil I run/prefer in this thread or any where on this forum. For the record I have 7 different oils at the house I can choose from. Some your mentioning here, some your not.
 
But to classify it purely as a misuse and strictly injector oil is just Redbulls way to try and discredit someone who disagrees with his opinions. Until he pulls the cylinder or does an evaporation test he'll never see the benefits of it.
I don't know if I would call the use of an inector/dual-purpose oil in a premix setup misuse, but I would call it a compromise. A compromise I have no interest in making.
What is an evaporation test?
 
I'm buying about the same amount of oil for only slightly less. But it's great oil, meeting the latest standards, not orange bottle sludge..
Ummmmm.....
Are you avoiding answering my questions?? Or did you not understand their simplicity??

I spend 78¢ on the oil for every gallon of fuel I mix... what do you spend on oil per gallon of fuel?? (at your 32:1??)
I buy a 6-pack of 6.4 oz bottles for 11.75, that works out to $9.79 per quart... what do you spend on a quart??
I don't haf'ta screw 'round with measuring; I pop the lid off the jug, pour it in the can, toss the jug, and fill the can with gas... done.
My stuff starts easy, runs good, and don't break... where's the poor value?? (I mean... really... what more can I ask from the oil??)

And I'll add a couple more...
I get 12½ gallons of mixed fuel from a quart of oil... how many gallons of fuel do you get from a quart?? (at your 32:1??)
What's so great about the newest (Japanese or European) standards?? More friggin' detergent?? So what??
And who gives a cold owl crap what the Japanese or Europeans think oil should be anyway?? The newer standards are about a (supposedly) cleaner, greener environment... it ain't about your friggin' engine performance. If they wouldn't keep choking those engines back, they wouldn't need all that friggin' soap.
I'm buyin' oil, you're the fool buyin' more soap and thinkin' it's the latest 'n' greatest in oil technology... where your value in that??

It's no friggin' wonder you haf'ta mix it 32:1... it's likely ¼ soap... ya' gotta' make up for the lack of oil somehow.

Give me a break...
*
 
I don't know if I would call the use of an inector/dual-purpose oil in a premix setup misuse, but I would call it a compromise.
What is an evaporation test?
Premix sat in a glass container. Allow the fuel to sit undisturbed until all that's left is residue (oil mostly). What this allows you to see is: Does the oil separate? Does the oil become tacky? How much oil is lost in the process?
 
Ummmmm.....
Are you avoiding answering my questions?? Or did you not understand their simplicity??

I spend 78¢ on the oil for every gallon of fuel I mix... what do you spend on oil per gallon of fuel?? (at your 32:1??)
I buy a 6-pack of 6.4 oz bottles for 11.75, that works out to $9.79 per quart... what do you spend on a quart??
I don't haf'ta screw 'round with measuring; I pop the lid off the jug, pour it in the can, toss the jug, and fill the can with gas... done.
My stuff starts easy, runs good, and don't break... where's the poor value?? (I mean... really... what more can I ask from the oil??)

And I'll add a couple more...
I get 12½ gallons of mixed fuel from a quart of oil... how many gallons of fuel do you get from a quart?? (at your 32:1??)
What's so great about the newest (Japanese or European) standards?? More friggin' detergent?? So what??
And who gives a cold owl crap what the Japanese or Europeans think oil should be anyway?? The newer standards are about a (supposedly) cleaner, greener environment... it ain't about your friggin' engine performance. If they wouldn't keep choking those engines back, they wouldn't need all that friggin' soap.
I'm buyin' oil, you're the fool buyin' more soap and thinkin' it's the latest 'n' greatest in oil technology... where your value in that??

It's no friggin' wonder you haf'ta mix it 32:1... it's likely ¼ soap... ya' gotta' make up for the lack of oil somehow.

Give me a break...
*
I spend under $10 for several different oils. And they are modern formulations, which Orange bottle is not. It's also not just detergents... Fc/Fd oils have a cap on detergents so they use less of them in concert with higher quality base oils that burn cleaner. Cleaner engines have better ring mobility which makes them last longer.
Essentially you are paying the same price for cheap crap. IF your happy with that rock on..
Some people can actually chew gum and walk so using a ratio right isn't a difficult task.
 
Premix sat in a glass container. Allow the fuel to sit undisturbed until all that's left is residue (oil mostly). What this allows you to see is: Does the oil separate? Does the oil become tacky? How much oil is lost in the process?
That wouldn't tell me a damn thing I didn't already know. IE how much oil is in the mix.
 
i don't have anything against anyone here but your post made me LMFAO!
Neither do I Shane. I just find it interesting how the OP will throw a fit similar to that of a child when someone posts something he doesn't agree with or something that goes against his "discoveries".

Lets get back to the topic though, dont want to ruffle any more feathers.:)
 
I spend under $10 for several different oils. And they are modern formulations, which Orange bottle is not.
So... I guess you are avoiding answering my questions.

It's also not just detergents... Fc/Fd oils have a cap on detergents so they use less of them in concert with higher quality base oils that burn cleaner.
Bu‼$h!t

Specifications for Two Stroke Oil
  • NMMA TC-W3 – two cycle water-cooled, third generation. TC-W3 obsoletes TC-W & TC-WII. Oils with this spec do not use metal based additives, and are ashless. This is an outboard specific spec.
  • API TC – only API spec established for two cycle engines. It regulates lubricity, detergency, ash content & pre-ignition. Oils with this spec are typically using metal based, ash producing additives.
  • JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
  • JASO FB – increased lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA.
  • JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB.
  • JASO FD - same as FC with far higher detergency requirement.
  • ISO-L-EGB – same tests and requirements as JASO FB.
  • ISO-L-EGC – same tests and slightly higher detergency requirements (piston varnish) as JASO FC.
  • ISO-L-EGD – same tests and requirements as JASO FD.
Here's your reference link... and I have more if it ain't good enough for ya'...
www.rm-e.no/media/two-stroke-oil.pdf

You're buyin' soap... for a chainsaw that you've likely opened up the muffler and maybe even ported??
You're a damn fool... you've bought into the propaganda... you're believing in friggin' magic.
You ain't runnin' it in a choked up Japanese moped with a pencil diameter cat exhaust system...

Use whatever makes your willie stiff... I don't care for owl crap what it is, and I won't put ya' down for it... but I'll correct misinformation and BS every time I see it.
*
 
Neither do I Shane. I just find it interesting how the OP will throw a fit similar to that of a child when someone posts something he doesn't agree with or something that goes against his "discoveries".

Lets get back to the topic though, dont want to ruffle any more feathers.:)


fit? cuz I defend my results? cuz I don't take the bs...For example - like people who can't read and only see what they want to see and then say that I said this or that when I didn't say that at all. Yeah that's a bit frustrating ...like dealing with a pissed off woman. Her " you said blah blah blah" and your like wtf lady...I didn't say that at all. THEN they keep doing it. So yeah it's kind of annoying.

Or the guys who talk about variables and problems that don't really influence the test results as they imagine..., yet they have never run a test themselves to actually know.

No discoveries here - I'm just posting results and my opinions. So instead of doing a test to verify/confirm. Some guys get all wet in the middle when they don't like said results, so they turn into 12yr olds and start name calling. Or misquoting you or any number of little childish acts to try and discredit the test.

Don't like my test results??? Then do the same test and prove em wrong. No one so far is willing to do that.
 
So... I guess you are avoiding answering my questions.


Bu‼$h!t

Specifications for Two Stroke Oil
  • NMMA TC-W3 – two cycle water-cooled, third generation. TC-W3 obsoletes TC-W & TC-WII. Oils with this spec do not use metal based additives, and are ashless. This is an outboard specific spec.
  • API TC – only API spec established for two cycle engines. It regulates lubricity, detergency, ash content & pre-ignition. Oils with this spec are typically using metal based, ash producing additives.
  • JASO FA – original spec established regulating lubricity, detergency, initial torque, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking.
  • JASO FB – increased lubricity, detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FA.
  • JASO FC – lubricity and initial torque requirements same as FB, however far higher detergency, exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements over FB.
  • JASO FD - same as FC with far higher detergency requirement.
  • ISO-L-EGB – same tests and requirements as JASO FB.
  • ISO-L-EGC – same tests and slightly higher detergency requirements (piston varnish) as JASO FC.
  • ISO-L-EGD – same tests and requirements as JASO FD.
Here's your reference link... and I have more if it ain't good enough for ya'...
www.rm-e.no/media/two-stroke-oil.pdf

You're buyin' soap... for a chainsaw that you've likely opened up the muffler and maybe even ported??
You're a damn fool... you've bought into the propaganda... you're believing in friggin' magic.
You ain't runnin' it in a choked up Japanese moped with a pencil diameter cat exhaust system...

Use whatever makes your willie stiff... I don't care for owl crap what it is, and I won't put ya' down for it... but I'll correct misinformation and BS every time I see it.
*
They cap sulfated ash..which limits how much detergent you can us and detergancy refers to cleanliness, not actual detergent concentration. AND I don't need to Google that. Nice try though...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top