You need a ported 660
Which makes testing very hard..unless your someone like Cahoon or the likeLoad is dictated by the operator, regardless of chain, wood type, or size.
You need a ported 660
Which makes testing very hard..unless your someone like Cahoon or the likeLoad is dictated by the operator, regardless of chain, wood type, or size.
My highest priorities with oil are protection and cleanliness. Speed differences are interesting though. I don't carry a stop watch when I'm cutting firewood but it's still entertaining.Which makes testing very hard..unless your someone like Cahoon or the like
Which makes testing very hard..unless your someone like Cahoon or the like
I do ...........Thanks @redbull660 ,i like the leftovers from the tests. I am getting a pretty good stock of .404 now ,75-80 % of the chain i am running out of the box ,a few have hit dirt ,so i fix them before use .I just don't know what to say
My head hurts...I just don't know what to say
Have a beerMy head hurts...
What are you referring to when you say lubricity?the lowest visc's have been doing best even at 32:1
I talked to andrew about it.
summary -
- higher visc oil...much stronger film strength but is causing a film strength that is slowing the piston down. IN a chainsaw! Cuz we are talking much higher horse power with bikes etc vs chainsaws.
- and you can't really reduce the film strength of a high visc oil with out reducing ratio well past 50:1 or a point/ratio, that is probably unsafe.
- visc is obviously not the only factor in play. Lubricity - is also at play. So while you may have a oil with a low visc is still may end up being slower than a high visc number due to it's lesser lubricity/quality.
Point - most likely the lower visc oils are going to prevail. And it would seem to make sense to take the fastest performer (indicator of high lubricity) with the highest viscosity (film strength) at a ratio which ya'll can live with. I think Temps will play a key role in determining if a ratio is too high.
All that said - checking some of the dedicated chainsaw oils out there - from what i can tell they all have viscs in the 7s and 8s.
there really aren't any metrics on "lubricity". it's not exactly easy to get a number to compare. So you have to test the oils.
What does widenose do better or not? Should bore and cut better with the nose buried as the radius isnt as small and the back edge of the tooth isnt hitting the wood at such an extreme angle with more resistance?Wide nose can't change "gearing". It's an idler wheel.
Kinda like this thread..........Yes the wide nose will bore better.
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