Yeah...
But you are a mad professor...
And should be in a straight jacket to protect yourself and others..
The mad part is correct, not sure about the professor part.
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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The mad part is correct, not sure about the professor part.
If you guys can get him in a straight jacket I can go get my slice of cake back. Chop chopYeah...
But you are a mad professor...
And should be in a straight jacket to protect yourself and others..
Andy if you came here for any conclusions to anything oil related l think you had wasted hope. Its ok your saws are fine and many others will continue to run far longer than this thread no matter what brand of oil one chooses. An oil thread was a designed platform for one to display his ego, rather than prevent blow by or any other effect with in a two cycle. The winner in this thread goes to the company that markets its oil the best.
KG441c
Keith
Ill take Brad, Andre, Randy, and MDavLees advice. BWalker seems to know a huge amont of information. They all agree on 32to1? Alota this information has been opinionated but I still havent seen any information that would change my mind from using ester oils like H1R,800t,k2. Ive ran Lucas and r50 also and like them . Personally i think Mdavlee probably runs more oils than anyone I have heard of and testing alota fuels, chains, oils and posted videos and alota pics. He has seen alot of these oils milling and posted pics and Ive ask him alota questions about different oils and if a ported work saw could be blown up or a oil would show bad inside a saw , Mdavlee Im sure could tell u. Andre has studied oil more than any of us probably and Brad in the past recommended I PM Andre if I had any questions about oils and that he was full of knowledge on the subject. I think we r trying to get past the marketing hype? Randy sees the inside of alota saws and what oils r doin and I think all these guys opinions r valuable
KG441c
Keith
I do see what u r saying though but there has been alota good info presented here and I appreciate all of it and Redbulls efforts on his test also . I agree it would be hard to draw a conclusion. For me I take Mdavlees opinions and advice when asking about an oil
Scientific or not, accurate or not, it's certainly entertaining
KG441c
Keith
I tend to take the word of folks who have burn alot of oil/brands in extreme conditions plus seen the insides
The only thing I've seen is a lot of oils people say have bad build up are probably idled a lot. Milling when there's a mi utes of cool down at the end of a cut then shutoff to refuel and then back at it seems to keep build up down from being hotter longer or its too rich. Motul has cleaned the top of pistons off after they've been run with other oils. Klotz R50 has done as good and I figure if there's no scuffing when milling when it's 98° degrees outside and I run out mid cut and thought the saw died until I peeked in the fuel tank.
sunfish
Fish Head
Fish oil is pretty good stuff... Just sayin.
I know Mark Zaic personaly and he has done alot of motor work for me. He is a hell of a engine builder and a good guy but that article is full of technical mistake
.. I have used about 50 gallons of his oil and it's decent stuff in sleds.
I agree and it's very apparent given the stupid comments made..
On or off-road version?
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Redbull.......here's part of a email from one of my customers in Canada.
It may make you rethink the whole resetting thing........or lack thereof.
"Hello randy.
Turns out that resetting the 661 made the biggest difference.
Now the dyno is showing the saw is having much better improvement.
Before, the pressure gauge would only show 1,600-1,700 psi full load.
My 660 has 2,000 psi.
Now the 661 is 2,100 psi and possibly gonna climb some more as the computer tweaks the saw."
The 660 he is talking about is one I built for him a few years ago. Very strong runner, and well broken in.
So I asked.
"Good deal. So the reset is a must"
And he said....
"Yeah I think so. Last time we put 2 tanks in on the dyno with saw as is but couldn't gain power.
It was the same as a stock 660.
Now it's on par with Lloyds saw.
We'll see as the saw gets run in more."
It may make you rethink the whole resetting thing........or lack thereof.
"Hello randy.
Turns out that resetting the 661 made the biggest difference.
Now the dyno is showing the saw is having much better improvement.
Before, the pressure gauge would only show 1,600-1,700 psi full load.
My 660 has 2,000 psi.
Now the 661 is 2,100 psi and possibly gonna climb some more as the computer tweaks the saw."
The 660 he is talking about is one I built for him a few years ago. Very strong runner, and well broken in.
So I asked.
"Good deal. So the reset is a must"
And he said....
"Yeah I think so. Last time we put 2 tanks in on the dyno with saw as is but couldn't gain power.
It was the same as a stock 660.
Now it's on par with Lloyds saw.
We'll see as the saw gets run in more."
The first thing I do after porting an MTronic saw is to perform the reset procedure. The most immediately noticeable change is an obvious improvement in throttle response. I start the saw immediately after assemble, warm it up, then perform the reset on a warm engine.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
Redbull.......here's part of a email from one of my customers in Canada.
It may make you rethink the whole resetting thing........or lack thereof.
"Hello randy.
Turns out that resetting the 661 made the biggest difference.
Now the dyno is showing the saw is having much better improvement.
Before, the pressure gauge would only show 1,600-1,700 psi full load.
My 660 has 2,000 psi.
Now the 661 is 2,100 psi and possibly gonna climb some more as the computer tweaks the saw."
The 660 he is talking about is one I built for him a few years ago. Very strong runner, and well broken in.
So I asked.
"Good deal. So the reset is a must"
And he said....
"Yeah I think so. Last time we put 2 tanks in on the dyno with saw as is but couldn't gain power.
It was the same as a stock 660.
Now it's on par with Lloyds saw.
We'll see as the saw gets run in more."
works for me! I posted earlier I would redo the test with the reset just to be sure. But this is just more evidence in favor of redoing the test, using the reset.
im not retesting Stihl though. I'll do belray at different mixes. I've heard enough about belray h1r keeping things clean and pretty etc. I've run stihl at 40 45 and 50 to 1 - none of those have kept things clean. I have no intentions of ever using stihl ultra again, so im just not going to even bother.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I will keep this still
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
#$%@ing computers!
abramj
Just an average Joe
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
testing reinforcements just showed up!
abramj
Just an average Joe
I read what I could and gave up finding a discussion on the variable of fuel going the jets as the oil ratio is changing. So I am posting up some food for thought. If this has been done, I truly am sorry.
For some background information, (greatly dramatized), if you ran 6:1 and decided to change to 3:1, you just increased the amount of fuel going through the jets as the ratio of oil in the mix is dropped. If your ratio "adjustment" is minor, the change may be subtle and not so noticeable in standard operation, but may be noticeable when doing a controlled test. So, if I my new saw was set up to run 50:1 and I decide to run 32:1, I think we can easily assume that I have more oil in the mix. But what is often not so obvious is that while the oil is increased, the fuel is decreased. This will lean out the saw a bit. The M-Tronic will not adjust for this difference, unless I am miss- understanding what magical powers the M-Tronic has. And on standard saws, it is also an issue, but easier to deal with. My 385 is a prime example. At 50:1, it ran great, no issues. When I purchased it from the previous owner, I switched to 32:1 927 as that is what I use on all my other 2 stokes. I had ran this on 50:1 a bit, and it "four-stroked" at wide open. Switch to 32:1, it wouldn't. I noticed the saw was adjusted to the limits for the high needle, and I had to remove the stops and go a bit farther to get it to 4 stroke. Not much, but a little.
Now I've said all that to end in this. If you don't adjust the carb to get the same fuel going through the motor, I can't see how the saw could possibly have the same power output.
My thoughts on this....
Joe
For some background information, (greatly dramatized), if you ran 6:1 and decided to change to 3:1, you just increased the amount of fuel going through the jets as the ratio of oil in the mix is dropped. If your ratio "adjustment" is minor, the change may be subtle and not so noticeable in standard operation, but may be noticeable when doing a controlled test. So, if I my new saw was set up to run 50:1 and I decide to run 32:1, I think we can easily assume that I have more oil in the mix. But what is often not so obvious is that while the oil is increased, the fuel is decreased. This will lean out the saw a bit. The M-Tronic will not adjust for this difference, unless I am miss- understanding what magical powers the M-Tronic has. And on standard saws, it is also an issue, but easier to deal with. My 385 is a prime example. At 50:1, it ran great, no issues. When I purchased it from the previous owner, I switched to 32:1 927 as that is what I use on all my other 2 stokes. I had ran this on 50:1 a bit, and it "four-stroked" at wide open. Switch to 32:1, it wouldn't. I noticed the saw was adjusted to the limits for the high needle, and I had to remove the stops and go a bit farther to get it to 4 stroke. Not much, but a little.
Now I've said all that to end in this. If you don't adjust the carb to get the same fuel going through the motor, I can't see how the saw could possibly have the same power output.
My thoughts on this....
Joe
