Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I'm thinking the lower viscosity oils may be better for performance, based on less drag?
You're splitting hairs to leave out H1-R.For max protection there r 2 choices here I see. R50 and 800t. Now Redbull either of thoso 2 vs yamalube would tell us if its marketing gype or the lab testing and specs r on target?
Or the ester oils at a thinner mix???I'm thinking the lower viscosity oils may be better for performance, based on less drag?
Less carbon also if operating equipment at lower speeds or idleI'm thinking the lower viscosity oils may be better for performance, based on less drag?
Randy, Not ran the 385 yet, it's track season, rain season, spring cleaning season, and still need to get the mower running, fix the AC on our van, finish my bicycle so I can start training for my "century" ride in July, sell a few more things to help pay for a CB550 project motorcycle...Priorities Priorities Prioritites..... All work and no play makes Joe a dull boy.... But I plan on starting it up Friday and get it on a 42" Osage Orange Tree that's down across the street. I will do a few test cuts and tuning prior to digging into that big boy tree.
Brad, thanks for the explanation, thought it was just a fancy pants improvement to the previous version of the compensating carbs. I don't have any of those fancy things on my old stuff. Just going off on what I hear. Probably should have not mentioned it as it shows my lack of smarts.
Less carbon also if operating euipment at lower speads or idle
We all learn a lot by being a part of these threads.
What I've learned?
Use any good oil.......and kill stuff.
This nails it from what in understanding. The only problem I'm having is with published scientific test data that proves more oil to make more power. Perhaps most of that testing was done before this generation of ultra high viscosity and extremely high flashpoint ester based oils. Perhaps oil was thin enough back then that it didn't drag the engine down and these news oils do. Or do ester oils not combust as well? Or, Do they combust better, and it's all about the viscosity?option 1 - you can run a thicker oil like belray h1r at 42:1 (42 seems to be close to number at least in my saw)
option 2 - you could run a thinner oil like maxima k2, yamalube 2r , lucus. at 32:1
So my current theory is that you might have close to the same temps, steadiness, and times. Maybe? maybe not? But the h1r would likely protect better? Very curious what you have to say?
i was thinking that at about page 30."gotten completely out of hand" ...someone said this is the mother of all oil threads. Would you expect anything less?
Yet K2 has a MUCH lower flashpoint. I have found it to be significantly smokier, especially when cold.So based on viscosity @ 100c and film strength between H1R and K2 the K2 is the better oil? H1R is 12.4 and K2 is 13.6
This nails it from what in understanding. The only problem I'm having is with published scientific test data that proves more oil to make more power. Perhaps most of that testing was done before this generation of ultra high viscosity and extremely high flashpoint ester based oils. Perhaps oil was thin enough back then that it didn't drag the engine down and these news oils do. Or do ester oils not combust as well? Or, Do they combust better, and it's all about the viscosity?
I agree entirely.Don't forget.......we are still only looking at the results in one saw, used by one person.
And the saw is an M-Tronic saw to boot.
I'd be hesitant to toss the baby out with the bathwater over this one test.
Is r50 ester?I agree entirely.
I'm still very much stuck on using an ester based oil for the ultimate in protection. It simply has a much higher film strength, especially when pushed to the limit. For normal operation, I doubt it really matters.
Enter your email address to join: