You guys are going to make me test this theory. I have a 266, 272, 046, 7900, and 390 here. I have enough oil to test h1r, k2, 800, 927, super techniplate, and maybe even original. I finished off the whole quart of R50. Wish I had a day to kill and my VP gas was here.
661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?
- Thread starter redbull660
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It really has nothing to with solvents. Solvents, as long as they are the right type and quality make no differance.
MOTUL 800 is a great oil for a different application, ie a shifter kart..
MOTUL 710 would be a better choice for a saw IMO.
That's absolutely true and made even worse if your tuning is on the rich side.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I've been running Mobil 2T for the last month........I mixed the last of it yesterday. 
2R is next.
2R is next.
I've ran 710. I bought a half liter and mixed it up with 4 gallons of mix back when I was cutting a lot more. The price turned me away from it.
Im stihl running STIHL ultra, not a lick of problems with it I can find HMMMMM ran it for 2 years of full time timber felling with a ms460 and a 044, piston skirts were still clean
wigglesworth
Booned
Mobil1 2T was the best oil I've ever used. Lots of lubrication, even at 50:1, and very little to no carbon build up. I almost cried when I used my last quart.
I have only skimmed this thread, but has there been any talk of lubrication qualities or lack of?
What about bearing failures, crank failures or piston failures?
Or is all this over a bologna saw oil test?
Can anyone summarize this thread, so I don't have to read a bazillion pages?
super3
Addicted to ArboristSite
I used them also. This place has had better prices for the past several yrs.
http://www.theoilhub.com/toh_two_stroke_motor_oil&page=2
Ron660
Addicted to ArboristSite
VP Racing use Motul 710 in their 2-cycle premix cans w/94 octane best I remember. That oil has a very similar viscosity as Stihl HP Ultra at 100C. It's actually cheaper than the Stihl premix cans with hp ultra.
KG441c
Keith
I had brought this up in a previous oil thread and made the statement the tech had told me but no one was much interested!!! Lol!!
It doesn't really fit the more is better mantra of some here.
KG441c
Keith
Okay here is my next question . I do believe the lower flashpoint oil will combust more readily and burn off better but do they offer the protection that the ester higher flashpoints do? Film strength vs scuff and wear resistant differences between them?
H1R is also a old oil. I was using the stuff in the early 90's and I see no evidence that the formula has changed much. That is, it has stated pretty mediocre. 2r is a old oil also, but they got that right a long time ago.
BTW back in the 90's when outboards exhausting oil into the water was a big deal. Several companies came up with biodegrade oil. All were ester based from what I saw. Interesting given the lack of corrosion protection many exhibit.
BTW back in the 90's when outboards exhausting oil into the water was a big deal. Several companies came up with biodegrade oil. All were ester based from what I saw. Interesting given the lack of corrosion protection many exhibit.
Mobil1 2T was the best oil I've ever used. Lots of lubrication, even at 50:1, and very little to no carbon build up. I almost cried when I used my last quart.
I have only skimmed this thread, but has there been any talk of lubrication qualities or lack of?
What about bearing failures, crank failures or piston failures?
Or is all this over a bologna saw oil test?
Can anyone summarize this thread, so I don't have to read a bazillion pages?
CONFUSION!!!!
If you never reach the point were they burn off in a saw application does it matter? And I am not talking in the combustion chamber. I am talking in the ring land area, between the piston skirt and cylinder wall, etc.
With that said said oils like K2 and 2r contain PIB which does a great job of preventing scuffing. Scuff resistance is largely a component of the viscosity and viscosity index of a lubricant, and in a blended oil each component could be different.
I am not sure and really don't care. I just know it does from expiereance.
And the no solvent argument causing it is bunk as I have ran straight castor and it hasn't done the same thing. Ditto with other straight ester oils.
KG441c
Keith
Okay k2 v@100c is like 13.8 and motul,h1r, r50 r all around 18 to 20?
That's of the complete product. It doesn't tell you what viscosity it's PIB is or what Viscosity it's ester component is.
I suspect that K2 uses a light, pretty clean burning ester with PIB as a anti scuff/ performance additive.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've had it. Arguing with you is a waste of time. You know your right no matter what. You provide zero evidence. You have nothing...NOTHING but conjecture, hearsay, rudeness, name calling, and azz backwards logic.
Fact - Stihl Ultra = designed for saws. The flash point is 432F.
Fact - flash point is very relevant....
The flash point does have to do with combustion but there are more important properties that contribute to carbon buildup. The H1-R should give you a much cleaner burn and result in far less buildup than the Stihl oil. The biggest factor in this is the base fluid. Because H1-R is made with all ester base fluids it burns very cleanly. The residue left behind after burning this type of fluid is almost negligible when actually burned where petroleum and some other types of synthetic oils will leave carbon deposits and ash when burned.
The flash point has more to do with how quickly the oil is consumed by the combustion process and how it affects the octane rating of the fuel.
The only oils that have flash points close to the Stihl ultra WHICH was DESIGNED around a chainsaw is H1R and 927.
927 has castor in it- caster sucks.
H1R is pure ester with out solvents. - So there is actually more oil by volume to do the same job as a oil with solvents in it. I've come to conclude that is why in my test, less h1R produced faster times and cooler and more consistent jug temps.
Pure ester/ester only base = burns cleanest - That is why Randy has had success with it.
Guys the flash point alone should have you only considering 927 or h1r. Why you would want to run a lower flash than stihl ultra is beyond me.
I'll post my results on the 660 and 661 temps/oil test. But I'm done posting for now.
I invite you to read through this - there is a lot of awesome non biased info.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...1-results-info-condensed.277566/#post-5305420
