661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

[Trx250r180]

Your not doing your saws any favors running like that. And your losing HP.

How long of a bar do you normally run ? seems like with a 32 inch in fir ,with my saws they run the best with the can a little wet ,the screens are clean and dry ,I also run triple port muffler ,seems like with a dual port the can is dryer with the carb adjusted the same ,Is there a point of letting too much exhaust out and running cooler vs burning dryer and choking the saw up more ?

 

[bwalker]

I run a 18 or 20" in wood much, much harder than fir. I cut doug fir for firewood while in Montana for elk camp and I cant believe how easy it cuts, even standing dead stuff thats dry. I imagine MT fir is also a far bit harder than what you see on the wet side of the mountains.

 

[Moparmyway]

Your not doing your saws any favors running like that. And your losing HP.

I don't mind loosing a little power knowing they will look and run like new for a looong time.
Mdavlee built a nasty - snotted up ported 066 for me, and that sucker can afford whatever you think is lost due to maintaining a clean top end and spotless exhaust

As far as not doing any favors for my saws ............ I disagree 100%
I have seen carbon buildup kill engines. Non adjustable carbs and fully adjustable ones. Same fuel, same ratio, only difference was the oil

You have your experiences, I have mine;
I use my experiences from my equipment and the ones I have worked on - other members actual pictures have verified my own observations

Keep writing whatever you wish, it makes no difference to me. I agree with you on some things, and disagree with you on other things. The only person that is responsible for my saws is me, so if there are any favors going around, then please do me the favor and stop trying to tell me how to run my stuff. I don't like how the exhaust looks in your pictures, but I aint telling you that you need to do your saw or bike a favor and "clean up" your exhaust.

 

[Trx250r180]

I run a 18 or 20" in wood much, much harder than fir. I cut doug fir for firewood while in Montana for elk camp and I cant believe how easy it cuts, even standing dead stuff thats dry. I imagine MT fir is also a far bit harder than what you see on the wet side of the mountains.

With a 20 inch bar i can tune like you are saying ,but my 75cc saw gets way to lean with the 32 or 36 inch bar buried ,so have to tune my particular saw richer to pull that bar ,I have cut hardwoods also ,they clear the chips easier in my opinion than the softwoods ,if i run full comp in fir ,it plugs with chips too much and bogs the saw ,have to run a semi or full skip to keep the chain clear ,if i cut maple which is a hardwood ,i can get away with full comp ,i am talking 20-40 inch logs ,not smaller 12-16 inch stuff ,dead fir is real soft and punky ,it cuts real easy ,i hear the Montana stuff is tighter grained because it grows slower than it does here ,i guess all i am saying is my particular saw seems to run the best with an oily muffler with a longer bar being run ,if i cut smaller stuff it is way too rich .

 

[Marshy]

With a 20 inch bar i can tune like you are saying ,but my 75cc saw gets way to lean with the 32 or 36 inch bar buried ,so have to tune my particular saw richer to pull that bar ,I have cut hardwoods also ,they clear the chips easier in my opinion than the softwoods ,if i run full comp in fir ,it plugs with chips too much and bogs the saw ,have to run a semi or full skip to keep the chain clear ,if i cut maple which is a hardwood ,i can get away with full comp ,i am talking 20-40 inch logs ,not smaller 12-16 inch stuff ,dead fir is real soft and punky ,it cuts real easy ,i hear the Montana stuff is tighter grained because it grows slower than it does here ,i guess all i am saying is my particular saw seems to run the best with an oily muffler with a longer bar being run ,if i cut smaller stuff it is way too rich .

Interesting hypothesis you have regarding the need to adjust F/A ratio based on the bar size. What is your rational for this?

 

[bwalker]

I don't mind loosing a little power knowing they will look and run like new for a looong time.
Mdavlee built a nasty - snotted up ported 066 for me, and that sucker can afford whatever you think is lost due to maintaining a clean top end and spotless exhaust

As far as not doing any favors for my saws ............ I disagree 100%
I have seen carbon buildup kill engines. Non adjustable carbs and fully adjustable ones. Same fuel, same ratio, only difference was the oil

You have your experiences, I have mine;
I use my experiences from my equipment and the ones I have worked on - other members actual pictures have verified my own observations

Keep writing whatever you wish, it makes no difference to me. I agree with you on some things, and disagree with you on other things. The only person that is responsible for my saws is me, so if there are any favors going around, then please do me the favor and stop trying to tell me how to run my stuff. I don't like how the exhaust looks in your pictures, but I aint telling you that you need to do your saw or bike a favor and "clean up" your exhaust.

I don't mind loosing a little power knowing they will look and run like new for a looong time.
Mdavlee built a nasty - snotted up ported 066 for me, and that sucker can afford whatever you think is lost due to maintaining a clean top end and spotless exhaust

As far as not doing any favors for my saws ............ I disagree 100%
I have seen carbon buildup kill engines. Non adjustable carbs and fully adjustable ones. Same fuel, same ratio, only difference was the oil

You have your experiences, I have mine;
I use my experiences from my equipment and the ones I have worked on - other members actual pictures have verified my own observations

Keep writing whatever you wish, it makes no difference to me. I agree with you on some things, and disagree with you on other things. The only person that is responsible for my saws is me, so if there are any favors going around, then please do me the favor and stop trying to tell me how to run my stuff. I don't like how the exhaust looks in your pictures, but I aint telling you that you need to do your saw or bike a favor and "clean up" your exhaust.

I don't mind loosing a little power knowing they will look and run like new for a looong time.
Mdavlee built a nasty - snotted up ported 066 for me, and that sucker can afford whatever you think is lost due to maintaining a clean top end and spotless exhaust

As far as not doing any favors for my saws ............ I disagree 100%
I have seen carbon buildup kill engines. Non adjustable carbs and fully adjustable ones. Same fuel, same ratio, only difference was the oil

You have your experiences, I have mine;
I use my experiences from my equipment and the ones I have worked on - other members actual pictures have verified my own observations

Keep writing whatever you wish, it makes no difference to me. I agree with you on some things, and disagree with you on other things. The only person that is responsible for my saws is me, so if there are any favors going around, then please do me the favor and stop trying to tell me how to run my stuff. I don't like how the exhaust looks in your pictures, but I aint telling you that you need to do your saw or bike a favor and "clean up" your exhaust.

I have never lost a two cycle engine to carbon buildup and I have never ran them excessively rich. Have you considered what all that liquid fuel is doing to your crank bearings,etc assuming your rich?

 

[Moparmyway]

Interesting hypothesis you have regarding the need to adjust F/A ratio based on the bar size. What is your rational for this?

Quite simply ; more work needs more power to do that work

 

[Moparmyway]

I have never lost a two cycle engine to carbon buildup and I have never ran them excessively rich. Have you considered what all that liquid fuel is doing to your crank bearings,etc assuming your rich?

Excessively rich is an interpretation
All that fuel and oil is simply keeping things cool and lubing up bearings. I thought you understood how a 2 cycle operates ?

Oh, and youre starting to repeat yourself

 

[Moparmyway]

,i guess all i am saying is my particular saw seems to run the best with an oily muffler with a longer bar being run ,if i cut smaller stuff it is way too rich .

It aint just your saw on your coast

 

[KenJax Tree]

I don't think it matters what oil you use. None of these oils will ever be put to the extremes they are made to protect against. A chainsaw will never get run that hard.

 

[bwalker]

Interesting hypothesis you have regarding the need to adjust F/A ratio based on the bar size. What is your rational for this?

Fuel air ratio requirements do change with load.

 

[blsnelling]

The more load that's put on a saw, the hotter it gets. The hotter a saw gets, the leaner it runs. Therefore, more fuel is required to keep it from going lean. At the same time, this additional fuel helps keep the heat down.

 

[Marshy]

Quite simply ; more work needs more power to do that work

Simply adding more fuel will not equate to more work output.

 

[bwalker]

I don't think it matters what oil you use. None of these oils will ever be put to the extremes they are made to protect against. A chainsaw just never get run that hard.

In most cases you are exactly right.

 

[bwalker]

With a 20 inch bar i can tune like you are saying ,but my 75cc saw gets way to lean with the 32 or 36 inch bar buried ,so have to tune my particular saw richer to pull that bar ,I have cut hardwoods also ,they clear the chips easier in my opinion than the softwoods ,if i run full comp in fir ,it plugs with chips too much and bogs the saw ,have to run a semi or full skip to keep the chain clear ,if i cut maple which is a hardwood ,i can get away with full comp ,i am talking 20-40 inch logs ,not smaller 12-16 inch stuff ,dead fir is real soft and punky ,it cuts real easy ,i hear the Montana stuff is tighter grained because it grows slower than it does here ,i guess all i am saying is my particular saw seems to run the best with an oily muffler with a longer bar being run ,if i cut smaller stuff it is way too rich .

Your hardwoods and ours are not the same. Pulling a 24" bar in rock maple with a 75cc saw is less than desirable

 

[Moparmyway]

Quite simply ; more work needs more power to do that work

Simply adding more fuel will not equate to more work output.

That's not what was said Marshy.

 

[Marshy]

The more load that's put on a saw, the hotter it gets. The hotter a saw gets, the leaner it runs. Therefore, more fuel is required to keep it from going lean. At the same time, this additional fuel helps keep the heat down.

How does temperature of the saw impact the fuel to air ratio? Thought that was controled by mass of fuel and mass of air being mixed for combustion...

 

[Metals406]

I run a 18 or 20" in wood much, much harder than fir. I cut doug fir for firewood while in Montana for elk camp and I cant believe how easy it cuts, even standing dead stuff thats dry. I imagine MT fir is also a far bit harder than what you see on the wet side of the mountains.

It is harder fir here. Montana is a huge state, some regions have harder fir than others.

There are thousands of homes in MT with fir flooring. Some 100+ years old.

 

[Marshy]

Fuel air ratio requirements do change with load.

I agree, heavy load makes more power with a richer fuel charge. Just seems silly to me you would adjust carb with different size bars. Reason I say that is because even with a shorter bar I can load the machine just as much as a longer bar but the feed pressure I put on the saw.

 

[Marshy]

That's not what was said Marshy.

Please explain more in detail. You left a lot to be inferred.