WTF is right...
WTF is right...
It will keep it cool all right at the expense of HP and diluting your lubricating oil with excess fuel...If you think this is a good thing rock on.....Excessively rich is an interpretation
All that fuel and oil is simply keeping things cool and lubing up bearings. I thought you understood how a 2 cycle operates ?
Oh, and youre starting to repeat yourself
I really think you should use SAE30 Non-Detergent.
That look pretty good, slightly rich but not bad. Mine on the other hand is completely clean and dry as it should be with a properly tuned engine.View attachment 419227
Here's another pic of my ported 660. That's clean....yours isn't. Believe me, I've done a few timed cuts to determine performance.
Back in the 60s snowmobiles ran on that stuff.I concur.
Quite simply ; more work needs more power to do that work
Simply adding more fuel will not equate to more work output.
That's not what was said Marshy.
Please explain more in detail. You left a lot to be inferred.
Yes. . . GTFO!I'm running a ported 046 with an 18" .325 9 pin this weekend.
Is that a problem?
I just bought a 390xp with full wrap handle. Fixing to get it ported just hasn't come in yet. I'll probably use a Cannon 24" .063 gauge for now and buy a longer bar later.....maybe a superlilte Cannon when they come out. Most of the Loggers in my area use Stihl 70+cc saws. One guy I know still uses his old 044 with a 25" Oregon bar. A smaller amount of Loggers are using 372's. They're mostly cutting softwood pines. Red Oak is popular in my area for firewood along with Hickory. Post oak, willow oak, or water oak are not preferred but I'll take it if needed.A common setup around here is a 385 or a 390 with a 20" bar. Sugar Maple is hard and our growing season very short so the wood is very dense. To give some reference we still have more than a foot of snow in the woods so the trees won't start growing for the season for awhile yet.
When I was timber falling I used to run Stihl 440's with a dual port covers and a 20" bars and latter ported Husky 372's with a 24". I also Ran 288 lites if we got into real big wood or Husky 385 and 395's. I tried not to run the bigger saws unless I really needed to as the increased weight was apparent. I almost forgot, I did run a Dolmar 7900 briefly too right after they first came out, but it went down the road as the parts situation was half assed at best.I just bought a 390xp with full wrap handle. Fixing to get it ported just hasn't come in yet. I'll probably use a Cannon 24" .063 gauge for now and buy a longer bar later.....maybe a superlilte Cannon when they come out. Most of the Loggers in my area use Stihl 70+cc saws. One guy I know still uses his old 044 with a 25" Oregon bar. A smaller amount of Loggers are using 372's. They're mostly cutting softwood pines. Red Oak is popular in my area for firewood along with Hickory. Post oak, willow oak, or water oak are not preferred but I'll take it if needed.
My Logging buddy told me his newest 461 only lasted 5 months before a lower end bearing went out. He mixes stihl hp ultra leaner than 40:1. I'm not sure if it was oil related....he never said.
I agree, heavy load makes more power with a richer fuel charge. Just seems silly to me you would adjust carb with different size bars. Reason I say that is because even with a shorter bar I can load the machine just as much as a longer bar but the feed pressure I put on the saw.
The guide bar is essentially a lever and the log is the fulcrum.
Obviously you guys can read but you forget something most are taught in school. The ability to push a saw or buck in smaller wood is easier because the fulcrum is smaller giving you a better pivot point which makes the lever more effective (guide bar). You'll notice that the larger the round the lighter you must handle a saw. Well that's simply because when the fulcrum is place closer to the effort (the power head) assuming the lever does not lose or store energy, the power in must equal the power out. As you move the lever (guide bar) around the fulcrum, points farther from this pivot move faster than points closer to the pivot. Thus meaning the effort applied to a point farther from the pivot (bucking spikes) must be less than the force located at a point closest to the pivot.WTF is right...
Its obvious you flunked physics... Hint:the wood isnt the fulcrum, but the "load".Obviously you guys can read but you forget something most are taught in school. The ability to push a saw or buck in smaller wood is easier because the fulcrum is smaller giving you a better pivot point which makes the lever more effective (guide bar). You'll notice that the larger the round the lighter you must handle a saw. Well that's simply because when the fulcrum is place closer to the effort (the power head) assuming the lever does not lose or store energy, the power in must equal the power out. As you move the lever (guide bar) around the fulcrum, points farther from this pivot move faster than points closer to the pivot. Thus meaning the effort applied to a point farther from the pivot (bucking spikes) must be less than the force located at a point closest to the pivot.
Now on to the lesson in friction. When a saw is cutting there's 5 places of resistance. Resistance causes friction and friction has this little byproduct called heat. Now when you start to apply heat for long periods of time it requires more lubrication because the fuel/oil mix does evaporate.
Your missing my point. Blanket statements like yours might as well be false information. There is a point when more fuel doesn't equal more power. I'm sure you know that and have experienced it first hand if you've ever tuned a saw or any other engine for that matter. This same concept applies to quantity of oil vs protection IMO (diminishing return).Whats not to understand ?
To do more work you need to produce more power
Try what Brian suggested by running a longer bar in bigger wood and see if the saw likes more fuel. Your saw needs to be capable of utilizing that fuel, but somehow I think you already know that.
You cant simply "push harder" ................ you need more cutters engaged along the cut or the chainspeed needs to be increased, the rakers are at play in your "push harder" fallicy
It might be a little rich. My tach said it's around 13,500 WOT but it cleans up in larger wood. The last Red Oak, around 20" with a 25+ base, it was 4-stroking continuously felling and bucking. But when I cut the stump it cleaned up.That look pretty good, slightly rich but not bad. Mine on the other hand is completely clean and dry as it should be with a properly tuned engine.
Only part of the equation. The wood functions as 2 things. The fulcrum and the load. But obviously facts don't phase you. I'm still waiting for you to state your qualifications Oil genius.Its obvious you flunked physics... Hint:the wood isnt the fulcrum, but the "load".
Obviously you guys can read but you forget something most are taught in school. The ability to push a saw or buck in smaller wood is easier because the fulcrum is smaller giving you a better pivot point which makes the lever more effective (guide bar). You'll notice that the larger the round the lighter you must handle a saw. Well that's simply because when the fulcrum is place closer to the effort (the power head) assuming the lever does not lose or store energy, the power in must equal the power out. As you move the lever (guide bar) around the fulcrum, points farther from this pivot move faster than points closer to the pivot. Thus meaning the effort applied to a point farther from the pivot (bucking spikes) must be less than the force located at a point closest to the pivot.
Now on to the lesson in friction. When a saw is cutting there's 5 places of resistance. Resistance causes friction and friction has this little byproduct called heat. Now when you start to apply heat for long periods of time it requires more lubrication because the fuel/oil mix does evaporate.
View attachment 419242
Thanks for the lesson teach.
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